What's the best way to convert from manual to power steering?

[saxart]

I'm sick of the crappy manual steering in my '70 LB. Next summer I plan on swapping out the 235's for something wider, this means the steering is only going to get worse, so it's time to pony up and put power steering on Old Roy.

What's the best (cheapest) way to do this? I see online vendors selling all NEW parts, and then there are guys selling used power steering set ups as well. What's the best way to proceed here? My truck is a somewhat beat up original farm truck, so I'm not overly concerned with a beautiful looking set up, just something that functions well.

Also, my understanding is that the pitman arm needs to be swapped out? Will I need to swap out anything else? (This truck has the original 6-lug front end with drum brakes) The engine in this truck is a 350 SB that was swapped out from a later model car, so it has a crank pulley with an extra groove. I'm assuming that groove can drive the power steering?

As you can tell, I'm a total noob to the whole power steering thing, so any thoughts you have are greatly appreciated.

[GASoline71]

Cheapest would be to find a donor system from another rig from 1967 - 1972.

I took the power steering system off of a 1969 C10 frame I had and sold it for 50 bucks. Included the box, pitman arm, pump, tie rods, idler arm, and drag link. All the guy had to do was buy new lines for it.

Gary

[saxart]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

Cheapest would be to find a donor system from another rig from 1967 - 1972.

I took the power steering system off of a 1969 C10 frame I had and sold it for 50 bucks. Included the box, pitman arm, pump, tie rods, idler arm, and drag link. All the guy had to do was buy new lines for it.

Gary

Thanks Gary. Are the tie rods, idler arm, and drag-link part of the Power Steering set up, or is that just how you happened to sell it?

[custom10nut]

What you "need" is the steering box (with rag joint and pitman arm), and the pump (with brackets and lines). All the other stuff would be gravy on the deal.
Also, you have to notch the outer bumper brace, to clear the steering box.

[Smith & Sons]

The CPP catalogue illustrates all the parts you will need.Their box is expensive & lasted one year.Best box I have found is from Red Top out of Seattle.

[jsera]

Ive recently seen some electric assisted power steering units that sit on the column and would work with your factory manual box...more expensive likely but I like the idea of zero chance of leaks and one less engine driven accessory...

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by saxart

Thanks Gary. Are the tie rods, idler arm, and drag-link part of the Power Steering set up, or is that just how you happened to sell it?

The tie rods and stuff I threw in there to get it out of my shop so I didn't have to trip over it anymore. lol.

But I wouldn't expect to pay too much more than that for a used setup of just the pump and box.

Gary

[implanenuts]

I bought a 1980 C10 with 1.25" front disk brakes and power steering for $400 bucks. Parted it out and kept all the power steering parts and complete front sub-frame. Made $600 on the part out. It was a bit of work but basically got paid $200 bucks and have all the components.

[VetteVet]

.................
https://www.google.com/search?domain...D%3A1%3B&hl=en