tons of info needs to be extracted from this thread

[oldman3]

Jim, very nice write-up on the starter relay. One thing I started doing many years ago, is to run the negative cable from battery down to the starter, remove one starter bolt and attach the cable with the bolt. Now you have a great circuit for the starter, and have never had problems that comes with heat. I agree with you on the purple wire, that is a problem in itself....Jim

[oldblue1968chevy]

Another AWESOME writeup, you do aweseome work no corners skipped good job glad to see you posting

[treveiger]

You really know how to describe stuff in so much detail that I felt like Ive done it . You do great work. Thank you for all your help.
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[bollybib]

Originally Posted by treveiger

You really know how to describe stuff in so much detail that I felt like Ive done it . You do great work. Thank you for all your help.
Posted via Mobile Device

You're welcome, Trev.

[Stricklinator]

Great job Jim (as usual)! I am running a hodge podge of steel and rubber lines with a filter to my Holly style Summit 4-barrel. I have had nothing but trouble with the rubber sections leaking no matter how hard the clamps are tightened. I also don't have a regulator in my system; what happens if the pressure is too high?

Thanks,

Paul
Posted via Mobile Device

[bollybib]

FUEL LINE (2 of 6)

CHECKING THE HARDWARE

When the order arrived, so did the first problems. I had intended to fasten the regulator directly to the filter/inlet housing with a 3/8” NPT nipple (see the picture above). However, it turned out there wasn’t sufficient space to get 3/8” tubing into the bottom of the regulator due to a conflict with the vacuum tree fitting on the intake manifold. Also, service replacement of the fuel filter was complicated. I concluded I’d have to mount the regulator elsewhere.

Another problem was making a 37 degree flare with the tool that I bought from Summit. The tool would not hold the 3/8” steel tube in place when I attempted to flare the end. So I sent the tool and the –AN fittings back (full refund) and abandoned the 37 degree flare idea. Since I already had a decent KD Tools 45 degree flaring tool, I then considered using single flare SAE 45. However, as I read through literature on flared tubing, I learned that single flare tubing connections are less resistant to vibration and more prone to crack than double flares. The only reason I had been avoiding double flares until now was because I was having a hard time finding the correct NPT to inverted flare adapter. “This part can be found”, I said to myself. So I went back to square one and stuck with my original goal of using double flares at the ends of the tubing.

Here is a good summary of the differences between the two types of flare.

http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/publ...dev_216279.pdf

Single 45 flare – p. 41
Double 45 flare – p. 36

I finally found a supplier and ordered the 3/8” M-NPT x 3/8” tube inverted flare adapter fittings. I also bought two straight five foot sticks of 3/8” tubing with prefabricated flares and tube nuts at both ends that would be used for the final installation (the coiled stuff is hard to get nice and straight). I would cut off the prefabricated flares and use the tube nuts on my own flares.

While waiting for the fittings, I looked for a suitable location for the regulator. I decided to mount it to the inlet manifold at the front of the engine. In this location, it would act as a 90 degree transition for the tubing (vertical from pump, then horizontal to carburetor) and would require two sections of tubing. I made brackets out of wood to help locate the regulator and design the support bracket. I also considered clearances needed for future installation of the stock air conditioning compressor brackets by referring to a mockup I made up.

AC bracket mockup used for reference.

BENDING THE TUBING

Once I had a fix on the regulator location and bracket configuration, I started to work on bending the 3/8” steel tubing. I discovered immediately (not to my surprise) that my $6.99 Harbor Freight bender wasn’t going to cut it. After some research, I bought a Ridgid Model 406 for use only with 3/8” tubing. As soon as it arrived I made a few trial bends. A good tool sure makes a difference ! On 180 degree bends, a slight flattening was noticeable on the outer circumference, but otherwise, nice smooth bends.

A fine bender, indeed.

I had about five feet of 3/8” coiled tubing and a few other pieces on hand that I used for practice bends. I took my time and made a lot of measurements. I tried using the stiff wire method to make templates but they weren’t accurate enough. I got the best results by trial and error using actual tubing and measuring the results. Eventually I got the dimensions and procedure down so I took one of my straight pieces of tubing and bent and flared the fuel pump outlet end. I only made enough bends so that it stuck up vertically near the water pump. Next I went to work on the tubing coming from the filter/inlet housing. Similar to the pump end, I made bends only so far as to get the tubing past the carburetor. With the ends of the two tubing sections flared and fastened in place at their ends, I could mark the locations of the final bends so they would accurately mate to the regulator.

I made this tool to pinch off the inlet hose to the pump and
cut off the fuel supply while everything was disconnected downstream.



Left: final dimensional drawing for the tubing at the pump outlet
Upper right: final dimensional drawing for the tubing at the filter/inlet housing
Lower right: template for regulator bracket



Here are the two tubing sections before making the final bends into the regulator.
The regulator bracket attaches where the bolt sticks up on the manifold.
The tubing needed to clear the thermostat housing bolt. The socket
helped me figure out the position of the regulator so the bolt will be accessible.

[bollybib]

FUEL LINE (3 of 6)

The next thing I did was fabricate the bracket. I used a piece of ¼” thick aluminum I had on hand. I’d rather use steel but I don’t have metal working tools that cut and drill hard materials well. With the aluminum, I was able to use a metal cutting blade in my jigsaw to shape it according to my wood template and use my small bench drill press to make the holes, no problem. After the bracket was complete, I mounted the regulator.

Regulator with inlet tubing connected. A short stub
on the outlet was used as an aid in determining offset
bend points on the other section of tubing.



Another view of same.

With a tube nut screwed into an inverted flare adapter fitting, I had a reference point from which to precisely locate the tube ends. With a lot of check, double check, and triple checking, I made the final bends and flares. Both sections fit well and thankfully I didn’t have to redo anything. The tube ends fit up real nice and I didn’t have to force anything to get the tube nuts to engage and tighten properly. I had a few minor leaks when I first cranked the engine, but a little snug up on the tube nuts and they went away.

The two completed tubing sections.
Top: Regulator to filter/inlet housing
Bottom: Pump to regulator

When I was preparing to make the offset bend at the regulator end of the upper tubing, I discovered an error in the instructions for using the bender. By following their instructions, I was unable to bend a 45 degree offset to the required offset dimension. After some research, I found that their rule of thumb was for a 30 degree offset bend, not a 45 as indicated in the instruction sheet. I added a note with the proper multipliers for future reference.

[bollybib]

FUEL LINE (4 of 6)

SUPPORT BRACKET AND PCV HOSE

I made a second bracket to support the filter/inlet housing. The cylindrical end that contains the fuel filter is massive, and being cantilevered out like that it looked like it would want to rotate at the inlet fitting. I found a steel corner bracket that worked with a little modification. The base of the bracket is mounted on a carburetor stud (I had to buy a longer one) and the other end clamps to the cylindrical section holding the filter.

Filter/inlet housing secured to bracket.

The last item was the PCV hose. It needed to be rerouted because the inlet/filter housing was now in the way. All I had to do was turn the air cleaner extension piece about 90 degrees counterclockwise and fab up a new hose. I used two 90 degree sections of molded ¾” hose connected by a coupling to replace the original single 90 degree hose. The original clamps were still good so I reused those.

Rerouted PCV hose

[bollybib]

FUEL LINE (5 of 6)

COMPLETED FUEL LINE

Out from fuel pump,


up to regulator, then out,


across the base of the carburetor,


and in to the inlet/filter housing.

Afterwards and while I was writing up this post, I rerouted the spark plug wires some, cleaned up the electric choke wiring, and made a hard line for the vacuum advance. It will look a lot better when I get the intake cleaned and resealed, put on new wires, and paint a bit.

[bollybib]

FUEL LINE (6 of 6)

PARTS LIST

Tubing bender……………………………………………................…...$ 62.39
Ridgid Model 406, Catalog No. 36097
Build.com

Brake line, universal steel hydraulic, 3/8” x 60” (2 ea)………….17.22
BK 8131245
NAPA

Inverted flare adapter (4 ea)…………………..........……………………..8.96
3/8 invert x 3/8 male pipe
AllensFasteners.com

End plug, Allen, pipe, 3/8” (2 ea)………………........…………….……..8.42
RUS 662051
Summit

Permatex High Temperature Thread Sealant w/ PTFE………….…6.45
765 2648
NAPA

Fuel Line, Chrome, Carter/Edelbrock, Kit………….......………………40.18
SUM G1523 1
Summit

Fuel regulator, polished……………………………….…..........……....….26.41
SUM G3032
Summit

Carburetor stud……………………………………………………................…2.05
5/16-24 x 7/8 x 5/16-18 x 9/16 = 1 ¾ overall
AllensFasteners.com

Hose clamp………………..…………………………………................….…….1.61
1 ¼” – 2 ¼”
Ace Hardware

Curved radiator hose, ¾” (2 ea)…………………..........…………………18.95
DAC 70023
Summit

Heater fitting, ¾ hose to ¾ hose…………………………........……….……8.07
BK 6601527
NAPA

Fuel pump…………………………………………....................…….……………20.46
M4685
NAPA

Brake line, universal steel hydraulic, 3/16” x 51”……………........….7.53
BK 8131245
NAPA

TOTAL……………....................……………………………….………….……$ 228.70


Most of the materials and tools I used are in this pic.


1 Ridgid tube bender
2 Fuel line pinchoff tool
3 Stray wire clip
4 Bag with gaskets and O-rings for filter/inlet housing
5 Fuel pressure gauge
6 ¾” hose connector
7 Bolt for regulator bracket
8 Carburetor inlet fitting
9 3/8” M-NPT x 3/8” inverted flare adapter
10 3/8” NPT plug
11 Aluminum stock for regulator bracket
12 Bracket for filter/inlet housing
13 Metal cutting saw blade
14 Carburetor studs
15 Wood bracket (first mockup)
16 Fuel pressure regulator
17 Filter/inlet housing
18 Tube nut 5/8”-18 x 3/8” tube
19 3/8” steel tube (pump end complete)


CODA

So there you have it, a 100% hard fuel line.

THE END
(until the next project)

[oldman3]

What can I say, as usual a very fine detail install, nice...Jim

[bollybib]

Thanks again, Jim. My thread doesn't have the glamour that many others do, and it isn't very interactive by design. However, there has been a slow and steady increase in the number of views over the past year or so, so I hope people are finding useful information here.

Hope all is well with you, take care.

[litew8]

Nice work Jim How's it been driving lately?

[Low Elco]

I greatly enjoy your posts. I hope I'm riding in whatever you engineered! Daaaang! I'd have just rolled out there with some AZ green tube (bends great, BTW) and banged 'er out! Although I wish I had your forethought and patience. Cool ol' truck!

[bollybib]

Originally Posted by litew8

Nice work Jim How's it been driving lately?

Thanks for asking, it's driving great ! I still shake my head in disbelief at times that this truck turned into such a nice driver.

Originally Posted by Stricklinator

Great job Jim (as usual)! I am running a hodge podge of steel and rubber lines with a filter to my Holly style Summit 4-barrel. I have had nothing but trouble with the rubber sections leaking no matter how hard the clamps are tightened. I also don't have a regulator in my system; what happens if the pressure is too high?

Thanks,

Paul
Posted via Mobile Device

Hi Paul, Pressure too high can cause the carburetor to flood if the pressure overcomes the force holding the needle valve down. I read a couple of install blurbs for Holleys and they aren't as adamant about pressure as Edelbrock. I read one said 5-7 psi is OK which means in that case you wouldn't need a regulator. Just read the manufacturer's recommendation and you can't go too far wrong.

About your leakers, make sure your hose IDs and tube ODs are the same size. If the metal side is out of round or corroded that could cause leaks, too. I used AviationFormAGasket on one tube/hose connection on my old setup cuz I couldn't get it to stop leaking and that worked.

Originally Posted by Low Elco

I greatly enjoy your posts. I hope I'm riding in whatever you engineered! Daaaang! I'd have just rolled out there with some AZ green tube (bends great, BTW) and banged 'er out! Although I wish I had your forethought and patience. Cool ol' truck!

Thanks. I used to dread steel tubing, but now, I got the hang of it and I really liked bending the stuff. Good tools and materials help a lot !

[thelonerife]

Very informative build. I'll have to try some of the part #s you've used. Good job!

[bollybib]

Originally Posted by thelonerife

Very informative build. I'll have to try some of the part #s you've used. Good job!

Glad you enjoyed it. I see I gave you a credit in my Post #115 for the glove box light !

[thelonerife]

Originally Posted by bollybib

Glad you enjoyed it. I see I gave you a credit in my Post #115 for the glove box light !

Oh yeah, Thanks! Where did you purchase the touch up paint for your firewall?

[aussiec20]

Love your work Jim, But where can i get my hands on a license plate holder like you have on the rear of your truck?

[bollybib]

Originally Posted by thelonerife

Oh yeah, Thanks! Where did you purchase the touch up paint for your firewall?

http://www.paintscratch.com/

Originally Posted by aussiec20

Love your work Jim, But where can i get my hands on a license plate holder like you have on the rear of your truck?

My brother-in-law got that many years ago (1990ish?) on one of his business trips to Cape Canaveral. He gave it to me as a gift. It sat unmounted in my stash of good stuff until recently.

I looked at RonJon's site and they don't have any frames currently listed in their catalog.

( http://www.ronjonsurfshop.com/souven...nirs/auto.aspx )

Maybe one might pop up on eBay, that's all I can suggest.

I'm not a big RonJon fan cuz it's east coast surf stuff but I like the look of it on my truck so there it sits.

[jonny..2008]

good stuff here.
and no surprise, i have some of these projects on my drawing board too.......

[Tx Firefighter]

Epic thread.

[bollybib]

Originally Posted by jonny..2008

good stuff here.
and no surprise, i have some of these projects on my drawing board too.......

No shortage of projects on an old truck. Good luck.

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Epic thread.

Thanks. I've been reading through your posts. Coming from you this is high praise.

[jonny..2008]

Nice.
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[oldman3]

Nice Christmas present Jim, have a great New Year also....Jim