A Few Qustions

[Lowered13]

I was thinking of putting on 20" or 22" rims on my truck and was wondering if that would make it so i have to adjust the sensors (speed) and could you adjust the sensors?

I was also wondering what is needed to make a truck bagged? I have 2" drop shackles in the back and I don't know what is in front right now? and around what would I be expecting to pay for a bag system?

One more. Is it worth it to convert a truck from back drum brakes to disc brakes? and also around what I would be expecting to pay for that? Also is that hard to do?

[spatz]

1st of all Welcome to the site. What trans are you running, and speed sensors are not adjustable

[Lowered13]

Thankyou and I don't know what the trans is because I bought the truck 3 months ago. But the trans is a 3 speed with a granny low. Floor shift. That is all i know.

[spatz]

all that would need to be done for the speedo is to change the speedo gear or use an adapter on the trans to correct for the tire size change for the speedo. Sorry I can't help with the other two questions.

[andrewmp6]

Crawl under the truck and take a couple of pictures of the trans most on here can id it.But first off what year truck is it and is it a chevy or gmc?To me front disc are a must but rear disc are more for show on a pickup so i would leave the rear drums.As far as air bagging it just depends your budget how low you want it and can you weld or not.

[Lowered13]

Ok so I will try to get some pics of my trans up sometime today but it may not happen today. My truck is a 1979 Chevy C10 longbed. What is the cheapest set up for bags? and I can weld.

And where is the speedo gear located? The trans or the gauge?

[SCOTI]

What's the tire size? Depending on what it is, it could be the same as the original 15" combo & not need changing of speedo gears (which are in the trans where the speedo cable plugs in).

[Lowered13]

I was thinking about 20" with a 35 or 45 series tire. Also maybe 22" in the back with the same tires.

[andrewmp6]

The front a simple shock relocator and bag brackets will get it pretty low but if you want it to lay frame then you need a dropmember.On the rear it depends if you want it low with out cutting the bed or laying frame.

[Lowered13]

I was looking to make it as low as possible at the lowest price possible. I was also wondering how much it would cost because I want to price it out with a static drop of like 4" which I am also wondering how much that costs.

[502ms]

Originally Posted by Lowered13

I was looking to make it as low as possible at the lowest price possible. I was also wondering how much it would cost because I want to price it out with a static drop of like 4" which I am also wondering how much that costs.

On the 73-87 C10, 4" is not that much of a drop, depending on where the springs/shocks in the front are now. You have to account for decades of spring sag/blown shocks...you may find that 4" puts you right where you are now.

I recommend reviewing the threads below entirely - you can see all of the different models, how low, what size wheel/tire, and see if you like static.
Click Here

Then, take a gander at the trucks in this thread: Bagged trucks...click here

[Lowered13]

If I was not bagging it (which I want a stance like big al 71's truck). I was looking for like a 4" drop in the front and a 6" drop in the back like lyrikz truck. They are both on page 74 of the bagged pictures thread.

[Pro Performance]

I would recommend a 5/5 drop, which will give the truck a nice stance. You can go with a 3" drop spindle, 2" front drop springs, and flip the axle in the back. No welding is necessary for any of this.

Since you have a drop shackle in the back already, you might want to see how close it is to the frame, before putting a notch in. On a typical flip kit, you won't need to notch, but I think that drop shackle will put it a little close. Even at that, Porterbuilt offers a bolt-in notch for the truck.

Let us know if we can help you out with anything.

Static Drop Components
Porterbuilt C-Notch

[Lowered13]

I have to figure out what I have for a drop in the front because the truck is level so it must have some kind of drop right? Also flipping the axle and keeping on the drop spindles in the back would make a 5" drop?

[Lowered13]

They are not spindles they are shackles in the back. Just correcting myself.

[Lowered13]

Also they be 1" drop shackles.

[Pro Performance]

It would be about a 6" drop with the shackles, which I think will be too close, so a C-notch will most likely be needed. Or you can locate stock shackles and swap them out.

[Lowered13]

Well can't I just attach the leaf springs to where the shackle attaches too? Also you have to cut up the frame to put the c-notch on right?

[Pro Performance]

You, you can't attach the leaf spring where the shackle attaches on the frame. In order to do a c-notch, you will have to cut the frame. I think your best option is to find stock shackles, and get a flip kit for the rear, as that does not require a c-notch, considering you have all the leafs in your leaf pack.

[Lowered13]

Well how many are supposed to be there?

[Lowered13]

Thank guys for all the help. It will help me move on with my plans for my truck.

[Pro Performance]

If I remember right, I think there are 3-4 main leafs, and one overload. You can remove the overload.

[Lowered13]

These are pictures of my front and back suspension. I was wondering if it looks like the rear leaf springs are made flat and also if you can tell what the lowering thing is in the front? If there is one?

[Lowered13]

I have another question. I have replaced both speedometer cables and my speedometer still doesn't work so I am thinking it is the gauge is there a way i can check the gauge to see if it is the gauge that is broken?

[Pro Performance]

If you have the cable going into the speedo, and it is turning, but nothing registering on the speedo...... I think you have a bad gauge.