LS LM7 swap start

[K10 STEPSIDE]

I thought I would post up some pics of the fresh ceramic and powder coat.



Right now the truck is sitting ready to drop the engine in, then It is just hoses wires and programming. I haven't had time to work on the truck lately. Hopefully I have a good chunk of time this weekend to get the motor in the frame. I've been going back and forth on getting a cam now or later. might just save that for a weekend project later on. I also think I'm going to take the alternator/pwr steering bracket to powder coat as well.

[K10 STEPSIDE]

These are the parts I have bought so far as a reference.
(not including shipping)

clutch
wilwood 3/4 master cylinder WIL-260-1304-$49.94
Howe Hydraulic throw-out bearing HRE-82870-$139.97 (They do not say it fits a sm420 but after measuring multiple times I went for it and it looks to be an excellent fit)

Fuel Pump
Walbro GSL392 255LPH-$92.00

Trasmission/Transfer case
NFW1050 Sachs flywheel-$63.97
sm420 trans gasket and seal kit-$29.95
tranfercase seals-$76
Powder coating-$155

Motor
2003 5.3 dropout-$1200
HpTuners-$649

Total-$2455.83
this does not include random nuts and bolts, paint, sealers. The list is not complete yet either.

[K10 STEPSIDE]

GM machined some of their crankshafts at 1.652 which is the size of the ls2 pilot bearing and then some were machined at 1.705 which is the size that I have. after finding this out, I couldn't install the engine, but I now have the correct bearing ordered as Modern drive line has one that is od 1.705 and id .590 that will fit. I also took some pictures of the new parts and decided where I would mount the master cylinder for the clutch. I am holding it in location in the picture below and am going to move the speedo cable and wiring to clean up the fire wall. I will be able to modify the pedal to easily connect it and the master cylinder. I drew up cover to close up the bell housing, and need to get steel for it.

[K10 STEPSIDE]

It's been awhile since I I have updated the build, but that doesn't mean there wasn't progress. The engine is in the the front clip went back on last Saturday. the clutch has been mounted, the linkage made, plumbed and bled. The fuel pump is wired and lines ran. I relocated the coils to the sides of the intake and new wires made, I haven't seen them put here before. The gas pedal is mounted and the wiring harness lengthened. I used the same idea as the original gas pedal by mounting the electronic one on the firewall and contacting the back of my 67 pedal. I had to elongate the holes in the floor for the shifter and 4x4 lever. I got the OBD-2 port on and the wiring together enough to hook my laptop up. I read the computer and scanned to check some of the sensors. My gas pedal is not registering but I believe this is due to some wires yet to be tied up. It might be possible to start it this weekend. I need to wire in relays which are on the way. Hook up radiator hoses. Write the new program to the computer. and fill all the fluids.

[BR3W CITY]

Is it showing up not connected, or is it showing connection but no response?

[K10 STEPSIDE]

Some visual updates.
It took me forever to get these pictures to display upright.




I am liking the new look.




The New hydraulic clutch master bolted on, and the linkage to the pedal




I liked the original gas pedal look so I kept a similar setup.



I got the temp sensor in the passenger side head.

[littlevictories]

damn fine machine. I dunno how you keep a 4wd vehicle that nice. I can't manage it.

[K10 STEPSIDE]

damn fine machine. I dunno how you keep a 4wd vehicle that nice. I can't manage it.

Painfully, very painfully. I need to put a clear chip guard on the lower areas yet, but other that some small chips I've avoided doing anything stupid so far. Surprisingly my friends stop me from stupidity which is normally the opposite.

[K10 STEPSIDE]

Is it showing up not connected, or is it showing connection but no response?

It shows up not connected, but there is three wires that I have yet to connect. one pink- keyed power. one light blue-chsml. and one more that I can't remember color. I am not worried about the pedal yet. I know I have some wiring to finish before it all works.

[truckdude239]

How much rubber fuel line are you running?

[K10 STEPSIDE]

How much rubber fuel line are you running?

There is about 2 ft before the pump and none from the pump to the motor. then 2.5 ft from hard line to tank on the return side of things, and a rubber vent hose.

[K10 STEPSIDE]

alright, on Saturday I had that moment. I had to pull the top of the transmission and line up the forks, finished wiring the computer and fuel pump relays. Plugged in the computer and wrote the new program. Turned the key and she started faster than my daily driver. she is alive.

I had to do some trouble shooting before hand. I had to add grounds to the body and frame, I had the wires for my horn and my ignition wires mixed up (both are green and I'm not smart enough to realize there was two green wires to keep straight.) I added power to the gas pedal and it started registering.

So, at this point I would say it is the home stretch just need to button things up.

[K10 STEPSIDE]

lately I have had several questions about the coil relocation so, I'm going to do a quick write-up of what it took and how it sits. I wish I had take more/better pictures and remember the details but I'll give you what I got.

I used the plates that originally held the coils I just cut them to hold to coils each and removed some of the extra. then welded on l shaped brackets that are used to bolt the coils on with the same same bolt that holds on the fuel rails. Its takes some time to move around the mounts and get all the coils to fit.

Other than the cutting and welding of the brackets the only other changes are to tweak the fuel rails to fit the coils behind it. (I believe I shorted the bolt in the clamp of the fuel rails and cut a mounting tab that was part of the clamp) both lines are still solid and are not at risk of leaking of damage. 2nd change. I trimmed half an inch or less from my engine cover on the back passenger side by last coil.

otherwise minor trimming might help fit the coils (not a requirement and not something that compromises the the intake)

[K10 STEPSIDE]

i'm asking for alittle help. I have been looking at valve covers and and after looking threw what is available and pictures of the ls swaps I have to ask what are you guys doing with the two breather hoses from the intake to the valve covers. most of the valve covers I am looking at don't come with the inlets and I am wondering if it is as simple as plugging or capping the holes if I get valve covers with out inlets.

[K10 STEPSIDE]

programming help needed.
Alright, I am trying to finish the swap tonight/tomorrow. My only issue right now is with the computer or so I think. the only other thing I can think of is a fuel pressure drop. So I'm going to be at this till she runs like a top.

The good
engine starts and idles great

the problem happens at about 2000 rpms no matter what. the engine cuts power and and dies about 900 and rises back up. I logged a run of it and have been studying it. I took a screen shot of an area. So what do you guys see should I be looking at the fuel system or the computer.

[littlevictories]

something isn't right. your long term fuel trims are MAXXXXED the ****out trying to hit the commanded afr. computer is tryna dump gas to correct a lean-out. can you double check you got enough pressure at the rail with a mechanical gauge at the bleed/diagnostic port?

i see you're set up for a wideband, but not logging. what's up with that?

[DaveTurner]

Great work!

[rickcdewitt]

Originally Posted by K10 STEPSIDE

does anyone know what manifolds these are?

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by rickcdewitt

does anyone know what manifolds these are?

They're just stock 5.3 truck manifolds with some of the heat shield mounting bosses ground and smoothed.

[tinydb84]

How much was it to coat those manifolds?