filled drip rail - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

dubie · 06-14-2002, 05:00 PM

My drip rail is filled with a type of clear silicone. What is the best method of removing it? This is probably why the upper part of the cab is in such mint shape. All suggestions are welcome

barn9 · 06-14-2002, 05:09 PM

Probably some type of chisel Dube, just be careful. I had the guy at the body shop re-do my front rain gutter with some stuff he suggested (and it has held up perfect so far), but he filled it so much that when I recently went to add chrome gutter trim, it would not go on. Just something to think about, a lot of people will never use that trim, but after seeing it, I thought it would look good on my truck, and it would have if I could have got it on. Oh well, live and learn! Good luck!

Paul Clark · 06-14-2002, 07:02 PM

Try a wire brush on an electric drill or air dremel tool. Use safety goggles!

nosto · 06-14-2002, 10:17 PM

I'll go a little off topic and ask another question:

How much should the drip rail be filled?

When I bought my '67 C-10 the rails were FILLED with layers of some kind of sealer. Probabily 3/8" or more thick.

The Chevy Assembly Manual calls for 3/32" X 7/16" but that just barely covers the seam at the bottom and you can still see all the spot welds. Going thicker you gotta put a layer on and wait for it to set up; then apply another layer. All the time trying to keep the whole thing smooth.

chevyman 68 C/10 · 06-15-2002, 12:59 AM

Auto body seam sealer is the thing to use,and a wire brush on air or electric works best to remove the old sealer.

A container of lacquer thiner to dip your finger in as you smooth it out works great. Dip your finger often,wiping them on a rag every now and then will help keep the job clean.You need to wear heavy duty latex gloves with smooth finger tips.

Let the job dry completely before primering it.

Chevyman 68 C/10

chevyman 68 C/10 · 06-15-2002, 01:03 AM

The thickness shoud be enough to cover the seams and come out smooth.

06-14-2002, 05:00 PM	#1
dubie Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Flin Flon, Manitoba, Canada Posts: 8,855	filled drip rail My drip rail is filled with a type of clear silicone. What is the best method of removing it? This is probably why the upper part of the cab is in such mint shape. All suggestions are welcome __________________ My name's Tim and I'm a truckaholic My 56 Chevy shop truck build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=562795

06-14-2002, 05:09 PM	#2
barn9 Half a bubble off! Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Winfield, Ks, USA Posts: 5,588	Probably some type of chisel Dube, just be careful. I had the guy at the body shop re-do my front rain gutter with some stuff he suggested (and it has held up perfect so far), but he filled it so much that when I recently went to add chrome gutter trim, it would not go on. Just something to think about, a lot of people will never use that trim, but after seeing it, I thought it would look good on my truck, and it would have if I could have got it on. Oh well, live and learn! Good luck! __________________ Just call me LB. '71 Cheyenne, 402BB, hauls blondes, brunettes, or redheads.

06-14-2002, 10:17 PM	#4
nosto Flamin' Bass Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Galloway, NJ, US Posts: 315	I'll go a little off topic and ask another question: How much should the drip rail be filled? When I bought my '67 C-10 the rails were FILLED with layers of some kind of sealer. Probabily 3/8" or more thick. The Chevy Assembly Manual calls for 3/32" X 7/16" but that just barely covers the seam at the bottom and you can still see all the spot welds. Going thicker you gotta put a layer on and wait for it to set up; then apply another layer. All the time trying to keep the whole thing smooth. __________________ Rick Olson /nosto/ Galloway, NJ Pics : http://community.webshots.com/user/nosto53 1972 Triumph TR6 - full resto, now with a Toyota 5-speed 1975 F**D F-100 - rusty, but reliable 1982 HD XLH-1000 1967 C-10, shortstep, 350/M21 4spd, nitrogen tank fills fast bags on 4 corners, Toyo 255/45X20s on American Eagle 221 20X8s, shaved locks and handles, antenna, fuel filler, tiny C-notch, rear fuel tank, long headers, Edelbrock, worn 600 Holley, Checkmate flush hard cover, rear pan, custom LED taillights - painted it, too! But don't like it so I'm gonna do it again!!

06-14-2002, 07:02 PM	#3
Paul Clark Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Center Point, IA Posts: 502	Try a wire brush on an electric drill or air dremel tool. Use safety goggles!

06-15-2002, 12:59 AM	#5
chevyman 68 C/10 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Gilmer, Texas USA Posts: 313	Auto body seam sealer is the thing to use,and a wire brush on air or electric works best to remove the old sealer. A container of lacquer thiner to dip your finger in as you smooth it out works great. Dip your finger often,wiping them on a rag every now and then will help keep the job clean.You need to wear heavy duty latex gloves with smooth finger tips. Let the job dry completely before primering it. Chevyman 68 C/10

06-15-2002, 01:03 AM	#6
chevyman 68 C/10 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Gilmer, Texas USA Posts: 313	The thickness shoud be enough to cover the seams and come out smooth.



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