ball joint separator
 

On a 72 C10 I'm installing CPP lowered spindles. All the ball joints came apart with carful use of a pickle fork and a little hammer work ...except for the passenger side lower. Also tried a screw type separator that is useless on the lower joints wider surface. After lubing, a lot of hammering, air chisel etc it will not budge. I think the fork which is 5/8" thick bottoms on the joint and does not spread enough to pop the joint. I've already ripped the boot. Anyone make a ticker fork, or do the Lisle stepped forks work?

Re: ball joint separator
 

By the way the front end was all rebuilt stripped and painted about 5 yrs ago and is not corroded.

Re: ball joint separator
 

With the upper arm still attached--but loose--loosen the lower nut, but leave about 5-6 threads holding it together, in other words room for the taper to jump loose somewhat. Let the suspension hang so you're using the front spring to help. Jack stand under frame. Shock the side of the spindle where the taper is with a BFH. That is all I've ever done without too much of a problem. The lower castle nut will prevent the assy from coming apart. Hope that make sense

Re: ball joint separator
 

One of these:
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...8883_200658883

in one of these:
https://www.bing.com/search?q=pneuma...ANAB01&PC=LCTS

Loosen the nut as mentioned by kwmech and hit the area of the spindle surrounding the tapered hole.. About 3 blows from the hammer and the joint will separate.

Re: ball joint separator
 

You guys just recounted the way I've done it. It's also difficult to get a real good swing with the hammer when the suspension is together and the truck is sitting on jack stands without hitting something else.

Re: ball joint separator
 

Try 2 pickle forks...Harbor Freight...

Re: ball joint separator
 

You could also try heating the spindle....its going to take a long time though. I usually use a propane torch so it's not really hot.... I just prop it up so the flame is where I need it and let it sit...

Re: ball joint separator
 

I have the luxury of owning a short hydraulic ram. Loosen both nuts but leave them on the studs. Insert ram, between the two joints, it pops one loose and then the other. It's really fast and easy. But not necessarily cheap.
Cheers

Re: ball joint separator
 

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Here are a couple of threads that show simple home made tools.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=624464

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=645497

Post #6 in second thread. Also check out post #10. You might give one of them a try.... (don't forget the safety glasses)

Post back to this thread if you try them and one of them works.

LockDoc

Re: ball joint separator
 

Don't laugh...
I bought this $20.00 tool from HF and hadn't used it until I did the disc swap on my 68...also used a little heat from a propane torch
tightened the tool down really tight the smacked the knuckle with BFH....popped right off...quite loudly I might add....
Attachment 2218962

Re: ball joint separator
 

With the caliper off and the spindle turned, I have no problem hitting the area with a 4lb ball peen hammer while laying on the ground

Re: ball joint separator
 

thisiis how i do it as well with a 2 pound sledge

Re: ball joint separator
 

I worked my way thru school at a shop that did tires, battery's, alignments, front end rebuilds etc. The guy that rebuilt the front ends had pickle forks that went into an air chisel. Sometimes it took a little heat but they always seemed to come apart.

Re: ball joint separator
 

I spent two days trying to break one loose with a Pickle fork and when I found you could smack the spindle, it popped out on the second smack.

Re: ball joint separator
 

Air hammer to the spindle.
Never liked pickle forks tears up to much stuff.

Re: ball joint separator
 

Put some heat on it. Then smack the knuckle best you can with a 2 lb hammer.
She’ll drop out.
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Re: ball joint separator
 

At this point, the OP is replacing the spindle and the ball joint. Go with heat. The amount of heat will be determined by the part coming out. It can't be stuck if it's liquid!

Re: ball joint separator
 

I don't really care for the hammer method as most guys use. If a spreader or pickle fork doesn't work, I use a hammer, but only in conjunction a bucking hammer or bucking bar on the back side.
I use the largest hammer head or chunk of iron I can fit on the back side of the knuckle. The mass behind the knuckle keeps everything from moving and increases the shock of the hammer I'm striking against the front.