To Locktite or not to Locktite
I put my frame back together with grade 8 hardware, flat washers and lock washers. I wish I would have used nylon lock nuts but I didn't. Should I have used Locktite? This is one of those things that keeps me awake at night when I'm trying to fall asleep. lol
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Re: To Locktite or not to Locktite
I thought this process thru/When I was building a frame for a 78 4x4.
I concentrated more on the shoulder of the bolt being long enough. I did not want to use a Full threaded bolt I wanted the shoulder to be in full contact with the frame and the bracket it was going thru. I used Hardened washers to take up the space / (If Any) then a stover / toplock nut. Loctite on this would be a plus. :metal: Hope this helps.:chevy::chevy::chevy: |
Re: To Locktite or not to Locktite
Lock washers and torquing the bolts good and tight should be plenty fine. If you're still losing sleep, check a few bolts after driving a couple hundred miles and see if frame flex has loosened any of them up.
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Re: To Locktite or not to Locktite
locktite > all other thread locking methods. Go buy some. redo the fasteners that you worry about....be happy
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Re: To Locktite or not to Locktite
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Re: To Locktite or not to Locktite
Maybe loctite 290.
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Re: To Locktite or not to Locktite
Their is more than one type of Locktite.
I would recommend using the "Blue" service removal type. |
Re: To Locktite or not to Locktite
The factory fix on the assembly line for missing or mis-hit rivets was a 3/8" bolt, washer and nut.
They did not use loctite. But - since there is red, and there is blue: a little blue loctite could never hurt. K |
Re: To Locktite or not to Locktite
IMO, me being a machinist, I would use red Loctite. And also if the frame wasn't coming back apart, I would use a crimped style lock nut instead of a Nyloc type. It wouldnt hurt to use a split type lock washer either. Frame stiffness is pretty important. Just my 2 cents.
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