Wood floor replacment bolts and metal strips.
 

AWhen I replaced the wood floor in my Suburban I found that the 5 smooth top countersunk bolts (1/4-20 Plow Head bolts) that are across the rear of floor are not available.
These fasteners are usually rusted and have a tendency to twist in two when removing. I ended up modifying the closest bolts I could locate on my lathe to make replacement bolts. (Quick word of thanks to Richard 2717) These are a close but not perfect replica of the originals. The biggest difference being the countersunk area on the back of the bolt is smaller. The downside of this may be a reduction in how much torque the bolt will take before the head would deform. I had no problems with this when I installed them in my floor. The bolts have been sprayed with cold galvanizing paint. I have 10 sets.

I also have 2 of the metal strips that go across the rear that I had made. Mine was too rusted to reuse. These pieces are not drilled and countersunk at l present but I will do that before shipping. The reason I haven't done it yet is that when I did mine I noticed the holes were not consistent in their spacing. I would need to know the specific spacing measurements from your Suburban or that you would be okay with having to drill additional holes in your truck to get the bolts installed.


Here is a link to the floor replacement part of my repair thread. It goes on for several pages with a couple of detours before completion.

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...698377&page=20

Pricing for the bolts is $25.00 for a set of 5 shipped. (As of 10/23)
Pricing for a rear strip is $45 plus the shipping.
I also have one factory front hold down strip with extra holes drilled in it for $25 plus shipping.

There are no more of the #1 bolts (See post #9) available at present. (12/23)

More information on the bolts.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=721207

Re: Wood floor replacment bolts and metal strips.
 

Photos of the finished strip I used in my Burban.

Re: Wood floor replacment bolts and metal strips.
 

Those turned out nice

Re: Wood floor replacment bolts and metal strips.
 

Thank you Richard, for everything.

Re: Wood floor replacment bolts and metal strips.
 

Additional photos of the countsink or dimple process. 1st one is the die I made to do the job. 2nd one is test fitting in the factory piece. 3rd is the testing program.

Re: Wood floor replacment bolts and metal strips.
 

I like your punch and die setup:metal:

Re: Wood floor replacment bolts and metal strips.
 

Thank you. It was an enjoyable little lathe project.

Re: Wood floor replacment bolts and metal strips.
 

Bump to the top.

Re: Wood floor replacment bolts and metal strips.
 

I now have 4 sets of 12 of the # 1 bolt in the first photo below. They are not an exact match to the ones the factory used (Photo 3). The factory ones had 7/8" head with a 1" long 3/8 shaft.

These have a 1" head with a 1- 1/2" 5/16" shaft. (Photo 2). They do however have the same shallow dome head as the factory bolts did. Visually They would be amost indistinguishable from a factory bolt once installed.

Modern carriage head bolts have a much smaller head with a rounder dome head or the other option would be a head with a slot and no square shank under the head. Photos 4 & 5.

I will include 12 of these for no charge with an order of the rear bolt set.

Re: Wood floor replacment bolts and metal strips.
 

I will take a set. Thanks.

Re: Wood floor replacment bolts and metal strips.
 

PM sent

Re: Wood floor replacment bolts and metal strips.
 

Payment received and package posted. Tracking number sent via PM.
Thank you and good luck on your project.

Re: Wood floor replacment bolts and metal strips.
 

Thanks for the hardware.

Re: Wood floor replacment bolts and metal strips.
 

I’d take a set of bolts and front and rear mounts strips if they’re still available

Re: Wood floor replacment bolts and metal strips.
 

Yes they are available. Forward your zip code so I can figure the shipping costs.

For the rear strip I will need a measurement from the drivers side to the passenger side in order to correctly place the countersunk holes.

There needs to be a 1/16" gap between the side flange and the rear piece on the drivers side. (Photo #1). Don't include that 1/16" in the measurement of the hole layout.

Then record the center of the hole measurement as you move from the drivers side towards the passenger side.
For example #1 hole at 2 5/16"
#2 hole at 9 3/4"
#3 hole at 15 13/16"
and so forth 1 through 6. See photo #3

The last hole (circled in orange I will leave to you to drill as there are too many variables to allow me to drill it accurately. (As I found out doing mine. Last photo. ). You will need to either square the hole as I did or drill it over size so the square part of the carriage bolt will pass through.

See the link for further information (Post 542 specifically but lots of floor information on other pages) and by all means ask questions if I've confused you. :lol:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...698377&page=22

P.S. the front strip is an original one shown in the #2 thru #5 photos in first post. It has extra holes courtesy of a PO.

Re: Wood floor replacment bolts and metal strips.
 

It’s tough to see but the first photo is the bolt location on the drivers side.

Re: Wood floor replacment bolts and metal strips.
 

When I replaced the wood in mine I got the impression the holes across the back were randomly placed. Your's certainly supports that theory.

From your picture it looks like the outside strip on yours runs farther back than mine does and it looks like there is a carriage bolt near the end. Mine is a 67 Fremont truck. Frankly I would be surprised if all Suburbans were the same across all years and plants.

When I had the strips folded I didn't make them with any extra length. (I know, what was I thinking?) :lol: That leaves a us some options.

One is I go have longer strip cut and bent (Which I'm sure will increase the cost. UGH! It's been several years since I had them made.)

Or I could put the first hole where mine is and you would have to drill a hole in the lip underneath to match and then I would match the rest of your holes.

Or I could try and match the first hole with the minimum amount under the side strip on drivers side and hopefully there would be enough on the passenger side to get a bolt through.

Let me know.

Re: Wood floor replacment bolts and metal strips.
 

Confirming the measurement plan.

Re: Wood floor replacment bolts and metal strips.
 

I sent a Pm. Thanks!
Posted via Mobile Device

Re: Wood floor replacment bolts and metal strips.
 

Reply sent,

Re: Wood floor replacment bolts and metal strips.
 

Payment received and parts shipped.

Re: Wood floor replacment bolts and metal strips.
 

Received the parts. Thanks again.

Re: Wood floor replacment bolts and metal strips.
 

Bumping to the top. Parts still available.

Re: Wood floor replacment bolts and metal strips.
 

Bump for summer project.

Re: Wood floor replacment bolts and metal strips.
 

Bump up for winter project.