Quote:
Originally Posted by Rochlow
For instance.. Let's say I "notch" the crossmember 2-3" under the frame rails. Then, use no-limits bolt in rack and pinion.
I know the frame will need to be notched for the rack, the spindles reemed out for the tie rods and the motor mount shorten or dropped..
That's the route I was looking at. Also I was think of moving the whole crossmember forward 1" to center the wheels in the wheel wells..
Not sure if this is an option..
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That's dam-near what I did, but I used rod ends (without moving crossmember forward)
Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTI
Hard to sat w/o trying. I will say to watch that oil pan. 2-3" is going to leave it hanging awful low (vs the x-member). If you raise the drivetrain, that will add the the amount of planning/work.
Porterbuilts Dropmember get's you there much easier....
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While I agree Porterbuilt's dropmember would be easiest, Sectioning the crossmember
DOESN'T change your crossmember-to-oilpan clearance. If you think about it, you leave the portion under the engine in the stock location and
RAISE everything else around it. No change to motormounts or oilpan clearance:
Here's a good shot showing the stock motormounts in place:
Quote:
Originally Posted by kieth
I'm with you, that looks like a ?explorer independant rear suspension ???
i thought of that and wondered why no one would use it.  |
Take a look-see in my build thread: It's a somewhat modified 1993 Ford T-bird SC IRS.
They can be had for cheap and I wanted to shorten my wheelbase a bit (explained in my build thread) - was much cheaper than building a proper 4 link ( I didn't want to mess with moving the entire stock suspension forward)
