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Old 08-03-2005, 08:02 PM   #1
70c10swb
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Smile Best method of lifting cab from frame.

Well im at that stage where im ready to lift the cab off. It is loose and ready to go. I am planing on useing a cherry picker. What would be the best spot for mounting the chains? Should i leave the doors on or can i take them off?

I tried useing the google search but came up with nothing.Thanks in advance for your help!
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Old 08-03-2005, 08:05 PM   #2
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Did you look through the FAQ's section
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Old 08-03-2005, 08:33 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LUV2XCLR8
Did you look through the FAQ's section

yep got nothing, unless i mised it
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Old 08-03-2005, 08:42 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 70c10swb
yep got nothing, unless i mised it

Hmmmmmmmmm, not sure, maybe someone else will jump in
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Old 08-03-2005, 08:51 PM   #5
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I had my cab stripped with no doors, seats, steering column... Then I took a 4X4 wrapped in cloth padding nailed two 8" long 2X4's on the ends so nothing slipped off the 4X4 and another two 2X4's only 4" long to keep the straps from sliding up against the cab. Then we hoisted it off using my neighbors backHoe with no damage.
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Old 08-03-2005, 09:02 PM   #6
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Best bet is to leave the doors in for stability and less flex of the cab. I am going to sound dumb here, but I have heard the term "cherry picker" used for several things. If you mean an engine lift, then I have seen them go through a side window or through front windshield area hooking a strap to the seat belt bolts and lift. Gotta watch as it is front heavy.

If you mean cherry picker like in big lift truck, uses a strap looped through the front of the doors and up over the top of the cab.
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Old 08-03-2005, 09:14 PM   #7
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cherry picker = engine lift

i was thinking of the seat belt holes but was concerned with it being front heavy like you said
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Old 08-03-2005, 10:01 PM   #8
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Here is a neat setup Solver made:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php3?t=113397
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Old 08-03-2005, 11:33 PM   #9
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Being a country boy, when we did mine we used the ol' shade tree method. Chain host pulled it off the frame and pushed the frame from under the cab. This was on the "70 SWB I use to have. Worked fine.
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Old 08-04-2005, 02:31 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86swb
Being a country boy, when we did mine we used the ol' shade tree method. Chain host pulled it off the frame and pushed the frame from under the cab. This was on the "70 SWB I use to have. Worked fine.
There's a pic somewhere showing when I did it.
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Old 08-04-2005, 04:07 AM   #11
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4 guys, a case of beer and a large pizza should do the trick!
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Old 08-04-2005, 07:04 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay-dawg
4 guys, a case of beer and a large pizza should do the trick!
Isn't it a rule that after the beer and pizza you should not work for at least an hour or two and take a good nap? I am pretty sure that rule is in there somewhere!
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Old 08-04-2005, 10:06 AM   #13
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You don't give them the beer or pizza until they are done!
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Old 08-04-2005, 10:11 AM   #14
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That does sound like a much better plan.
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Old 08-04-2005, 10:31 AM   #15
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check this out. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php3?t=112976
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Old 08-04-2005, 01:12 PM   #16
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Leave the doors on the cab..............Run two GOOD slings through the doors, then lift off with a Loader Tractor. Atleast that is what I do.

IMO, I don't see how anyone could work on one of these old beast without a loader tractor. We use mine for everything from pulling cabs, moving frames, parts on skids, and we've found its alot easier to pull engines with it too.
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Old 08-04-2005, 08:23 PM   #17
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I made up the unit in solvers post and it works great!
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Old 08-04-2005, 08:48 PM   #18
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I don't know about the best but it is quick and uses tools that I have around the house. One man job too!

BTW...no problem with cab integrity or flex with the doors removed and it is lighter this way!
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Old 08-04-2005, 10:23 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stllookn
I don't know about the best but it is quick and uses tools that I have around the house. One man job too!

BTW...no problem with cab integrity or flex with the doors removed and it is lighter this way!

Now that is pretty slick... can you get it high enough to clear the motor? I know a good level and stable surface is needed for that method but looks like a good one to me.


Oh never mind I get it. You just slide the cab sideways off the frame that way. Nice method.
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Old 08-04-2005, 10:43 PM   #20
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i found there really not as heavy when you completely strip them, glass and the tank really make a diffrence.
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Old 08-04-2005, 11:11 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stllookn
I don't know about the best but it is quick and uses tools that I have around the house. One man job too!

BTW...no problem with cab integrity or flex with the doors removed and it is lighter this way!
i like that.

how did you go about that?


lots of good ideas in this thread. Would it qualify as a FAQ?
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Old 08-05-2005, 02:21 AM   #22
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I just use a couple of 2x4's (or a 4x4) to span the cab through the front and rear window openings. I just place the engine lift tubing under the 4x4 and lift. It is best to anchor the top of tubing to the 4x4 using an inverted "u" bracket the bolts to the square tubing on the lift (though the same hole that holds the chain) and to the 4x4. Get the balance point first before you attach it to the 4x4. This will prevent the 4x4 from slipping off the top of the engine lift tubing. When you move the lift the cab can swing quite a bit in every direction so it is nice to know the that it is anchored to the top of the lift. I had one slip off once and hit the concrete...no damage but scared the heck out of the wife, who was in the house and heard it. These cabs are pretty durable!

I have used this method with windows still in the cab and with the doors on. The 4x4 has to be cut exact to sit on the rubber gaskets and just touch the glass. The balance point of the cab is toward the windshield just over the dash. Move slowly and it is good to have an extra set of hands to keep the swaying to a minimum.
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Old 08-05-2005, 12:58 PM   #23
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I used a couple of small chain hoists (1/4 ton) hanging from the rafters of my garage. Two (2) 2 x 6's were placed under the rafters for support at the front of cab.

The cab was definitely front heavy and I wanted to rotate backwards to place on a small trailer. See pictures. During rotation, almost all of the weight was held by the chains in the front.

The cab mount points were used on the front and a nylon strap used on the back. As I rotated backwards the strap was gradually slid toward the front of cab. Notice this was done with the windshield still intact, however, back glass was removed to lay done on trailer.
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Old 08-05-2005, 01:24 PM   #24
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the problem with using an engine hoist is setting it down. unless you have a dolley on wheels that goes above the jack's legs, you're going to end up using a buddy or two getting it off the jack.
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Old 08-05-2005, 02:33 PM   #25
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This is how my two grandsons and I did it. No problems.
We lifted another cab using bolts ran through the cab mounting holes. The bolts were attached to chains that were then attached to the cherry picker. The cherry pickers arm was inside of the cab. This is actually the best way to do it. The cab is much more stable.
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