Anyone tried a 1 piece shaft on a LWB? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

iluvmy72 · 09-25-2002, 05:32 PM

THIS WOULD BE THE WAY TO GO FOR ME...I WANT TO GET RID OF THE CARRIER BEARRING

Brad · 09-25-2002, 05:46 PM

Yep. Before anyone tells you its bad, bad, bad--I've had mine on for 2-3 years and it works just great. Do a search, as I've said my peace about it several times now.

lux hauler · 09-25-2002, 05:55 PM

Here's one.......... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...threadid=21656

And here's another........ http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...postid=149003#

DeepPurple · 09-26-2002, 11:23 AM

Sure I've done it and like Brad said, I've had no problems.
Additonally mine is stock height with nice, normal springs that haven't been butchered :p. It connects a standard 12-bolt rear to a 700-R4 transmission.

It will fit, it requires you to remove the carrier bearing and housing leaving an oval hole. If there hasn't been any damage done to the truck, the driveshaft will fit right through and leave you an inch or so on each side (or at least mine did, but mine is a pretty big driveshaft because I'm running a fair amount of power through it).

A few notes of caution:
1) Get it built by someone that knows what they're doing. Find a good speed shop and get their guy to do it. Tell him what it's for and all that. It'll save you a lot on down the road. As a general idea the driveshaft should be somewhere around 4 inches in diameter. More if aluminum or going behind a strong engine.

2) If you are planning to run a lot of power through it make sure to tell them that too, and then get ready to widen the oval where the carrier bearing sat. Otherwise it'll rub.

3) If when installing the driveshaft you find that it is more than 1/2" or so out of alignment, it would behoove you to find a way to get that aligned. As long as the truck hasn't been damaged too bad or hasn't had the rearend dropped and not realigned correctly this shouldn't be a problem, but it's a good idea to check.

4) Check the u-joints a little more often than you normally would. Especially if you start feeling any vibration at all. You could save some pretty important stuff.

As long as the above are satisfied, the idea of a one piece driveshaft not working on a LWB is pure bunk. If not all are satisfied, well you're sorta at risk.:p

Custom 68 · 09-26-2002, 12:18 PM

What are the advantages to the one piece? I have the 2 piece on mine with no problems. I am thinking of going 700R4. Will it hold up to more power?
Thanks

Michael A. K. G · 09-26-2002, 12:35 PM

If you change the ride height of the rear end, the carrier bearing has to move. If you don't move it, it gets extra stress from the new driveshaft position, and will wear out more frequently.

Slammed67 · 09-26-2002, 02:16 PM

My '67 GMC long bed came from the factory with 1-piece. I'm still using it, howver it's been shortened to accomodate the 700R4 and short wheel base

Crank · 09-26-2002, 03:41 PM

Can you remove the carrier bearing, and the... well I don't exactly know what its called.(the thing that the carrier bearing resides in)
Because what I'm understanding, if you drop your truck, or some other things it wont work right. Can you just remove the whole thing and then just build a crossmember?
Brandon

Drecarious · 09-26-2002, 03:44 PM

would take alot to build a new crossmember...

the trailings arms are mounted to it.....

Crank · 09-26-2002, 03:54 PM

Well could you do it if you were not planning to keep the trailing arms? Like say if I was to like jack up a truck or use a triangulated 4 link?
Brandon

09-25-2002, 05:32 PM	#1
iluvmy72 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Springville, UT, USA Posts: 1,010	Anyone tried a 1 piece shaft on a LWB? THIS WOULD BE THE WAY TO GO FOR ME...I WANT TO GET RID OF THE CARRIER BEARRING

09-25-2002, 05:46 PM	#2
Brad Out of the carpool lane. Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Clark Co, WA Posts: 5,673	Yep. Before anyone tells you its bad, bad, bad--I've had mine on for 2-3 years and it works just great. Do a search, as I've said my peace about it several times now. __________________ 1968 C-10 SWB, 5.7 Vortec/700R4/3.73 posi, Torch Red 1968 Camaro, 250/Powerglide, all original (No, I'm not gonna drop a 350 in it!...Jeez!) 2000 Honda VFR in the faster yellow! 2008 Husqvarna TE-610 1967 C-10 SWB 'Six Appeal'-Gone but not forgotten...

09-25-2002, 05:55 PM	#3
lux hauler Psycho-billy Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: about 40 miles west of Cleveland, Ohio Posts: 2,591	Here's one.......... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...threadid=21656 And here's another........ http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...postid=149003# __________________ '72 C-10 350 w/Lunati Voodoo cam (207/213, .437/.454), Performer intake, 625 Road Demon Jr. and Hooker headers. Support your community, support yourself. Buy local, buy American (or Canadian). Last edited by lux hauler; 09-25-2002 at 05:58 PM.

09-26-2002, 11:23 AM	#4
DeepPurple Real Deep... Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: St. Louis Posts: 116	Sure I've done it and like Brad said, I've had no problems. Additonally mine is stock height with nice, normal springs that haven't been butchered :p. It connects a standard 12-bolt rear to a 700-R4 transmission. It will fit, it requires you to remove the carrier bearing and housing leaving an oval hole. If there hasn't been any damage done to the truck, the driveshaft will fit right through and leave you an inch or so on each side (or at least mine did, but mine is a pretty big driveshaft because I'm running a fair amount of power through it). A few notes of caution: 1) Get it built by someone that knows what they're doing. Find a good speed shop and get their guy to do it. Tell him what it's for and all that. It'll save you a lot on down the road. As a general idea the driveshaft should be somewhere around 4 inches in diameter. More if aluminum or going behind a strong engine. 2) If you are planning to run a lot of power through it make sure to tell them that too, and then get ready to widen the oval where the carrier bearing sat. Otherwise it'll rub. 3) If when installing the driveshaft you find that it is more than 1/2" or so out of alignment, it would behoove you to find a way to get that aligned. As long as the truck hasn't been damaged too bad or hasn't had the rearend dropped and not realigned correctly this shouldn't be a problem, but it's a good idea to check. 4) Check the u-joints a little more often than you normally would. Especially if you start feeling any vibration at all. You could save some pretty important stuff. As long as the above are satisfied, the idea of a one piece driveshaft not working on a LWB is pure bunk. If not all are satisfied, well you're sorta at risk.:p __________________ 1970 GMC C10 (Deep Purple) 383/700-R4 Mass Modifications 1976 GMC K5 Jimmy (Big Blue) 400/TH350 Coming soon to a drive-in near you... We have done So Much with So Little for So Long.. We are now qualified to do Anything with Nothing. Last edited by DeepPurple; 09-26-2002 at 02:52 PM.

09-26-2002, 12:18 PM	#5
Custom 68 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Springfield, MO Posts: 2,928	silly question What are the advantages to the one piece? I have the 2 piece on mine with no problems. I am thinking of going 700R4. Will it hold up to more power? Thanks __________________ Dave 1968 Custom Chevy with turbo charged 5.3 gen III 4l80e swap 1967-71 GMC 3/4 ton long step 4x4 (not sure what year exactly?) "A good friend will bail you out of jail...but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying "that was frekin awesome". "If it doesn't fit force it...If it breaks then it needed to be replaced anyway!"

09-26-2002, 12:35 PM	#6
Michael A. K. G Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: California central coast Posts: 126	If you change the ride height of the rear end, the carrier bearing has to move. If you don't move it, it gets extra stress from the new driveshaft position, and will wear out more frequently.

09-26-2002, 02:16 PM	#7
Slammed67 Progress = 0% Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 2,108	My '67 GMC long bed came from the factory with 1-piece. I'm still using it, howver it's been shortened to accomodate the 700R4 and short wheel base __________________ Jason - '67 GMC swb \| '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop \| '56 210 4dr Wagon \| 2000 GMC Sierra

09-26-2002, 03:41 PM	#8
Crank Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Crittenden, KY Posts: 1,964	Can you remove the carrier bearing, and the... well I don't exactly know what its called.(the thing that the carrier bearing resides in) Because what I'm understanding, if you drop your truck, or some other things it wont work right. Can you just remove the whole thing and then just build a crossmember? Brandon

09-26-2002, 03:44 PM	#9
Drecarious Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Arkansas City, Ks Posts: 32	would take alot to build a new crossmember... the trailings arms are mounted to it..... __________________ '67 LWB Fleetside w/ 283 & powerglide Edelbrock intake and 1406 carb K&N filter, Flowmater 40's

09-26-2002, 03:54 PM	#10
Crank Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Crittenden, KY Posts: 1,964	Well could you do it if you were not planning to keep the trailing arms? Like say if I was to like jack up a truck or use a triangulated 4 link? Brandon



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