Questions about my new blazer

[79BIG10]

Here's a previous thread about my new blazer. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=193585 I had a 74 K-5 before so I'm stoked about getting one back along with my other 79. Here's what I've found so far.

The wiring to the starter and to the ignition is corroded. Time for new wires for the battery and also the igntion. Easy fix there along with a battery. The flexplate is okay and starter looks new.

I found some ladies unmentionables and some beer bottles (Miller lite). I got most of the sand/dirt vacuumed out with the shop vac. The seats are in good shape with the passenger side the only one that has a good tear in it. The gauges are all there with a aftermarket temperature gauge. There's no carpet just metal other than the headliner (coming out). The seat belts are all there with the console in the middle. I took the other seats out from the back. They're blue bucket seats from a newer style truck (88-94 I think). The top is in really good shape. It needs some bolts to keep it down completely.

Now for some questions for ya'll.

1. I found that it's a NP203 with auto hubs. Isn't this 4x4 full time? Good or bad transfer case? Can it be converted to part time if it's full time?

2. Missing all 4 shocks. Glad I haven't tried to drive it yet. LOL!! But I think it had a lift block kit on it before. How hard it is to install? Just undo the U bolts, jack up then replace with new bolts? How high can you go with out essing up the pinion angle?

3. How can I get the rear window to roll up manually? It's a powered rear window and can't get power to it yet but need to get it rolled up.

4. Definately going to need some parts. I'll have to get a list but already have LMC book ordered to look there as well.

[redbeast]

The NP 203 transfer case with full-time 4x4 option (Crome caps on the front hubs) was very common. I have one - a '77. Up to you if you want to convert it. I've never had a problem with my full-time 4x4, but if you do any amount oh highway driving with it (65-70 mph sustained) you may want to think about it. NP-205 tcase is the best.
Off Road design's NP 205/203 doubler is the best if you can swing it:
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog...ck%20facts.htm
You will need some serious mods like drive shaft and support cross-mambers.
These doublers are radical in my opinion. If I had the bucks I'd do it in a heartbeat!
As far as the pinion angle lift question, opinions vary, but I belive 4" lift is the highest you can go without serious problems or mods. You may need a longer rear axle though if the spines stick out too far. You car re-position (re-weld) the axle perches or get some 4-degree shims. Rear shackle flip is the best way to go unless you go with lift spings in the rear - best by far. If you plan on doing any serious muddin or off roading I woud not reccomend blocks. You will have problems with axle wrap. What ever you do don't let some fool tell you it's alright to put block up front! You could end up in a world 'o hurt.
Rear blocks are not hard to install. but you will need longer u-bolts if you decide to go that way. Get cast iron blocks not the cheap auto part aluminum blocks those will shatter if you go off-road with 'em.
Rear window's a *****, no way around it. If your lucky it may just be a fuse or bad wiring to the window motor. You could also loosen the mounts and work the mechanism to closed and bolt it back up. If not get one from a junk yard ( roll the dice to see if you get a working one) or buy one from LMC truck: http://www.lmctruck.com. You should also get a Classic Industries catalog. What you don't find in one you may find in the other.
You will also need a brake-line extension kit. one for each front disk and one for the rear axle. Your steering will also have to be heightened to handle the 4" lift. A raised steering arm or a lowered pitman arm is a cheap fix but your turning radious will suck ( especially turning to the right) A cross-ver steering system mod is the best way to go but it's involved and costs some bucks. You will have to replace the passenger side front knuckle to do this. Don't get the cheap weld-on fix or you may lose your steering when you need it most.
Let me know if you need any more info. I can help you avoid the f***k ups
I made restoring mine, and also the expense.

[blaserman]

Nice buy you got. If you are going to raise it check with your insurance agent first. I found out the hard way about it. I had raised my 86 and had a accident and it was not my fault and it was not covered due to the modifications to the truck that they did not know about. Just something to keep in the back of your mind. Should look great when done. Keep pictures coming on the work. And again great buy.

[Prerunner1982]

Hey B, definately wouldnt hurt to mod the tcase for parttime, not manditory, but might save some wear and tear..

Personally i wouldnt go with lift blocks, they tend to cause wheel hop/axle wrap. How much offroading do you plan on doing with this? mild wheeling and mostly street, you should be fine with blocks depending on the HP of the 400.. Keep your foot out of it and blocks arent a problem.. but how fun is that?

I happen to have a wiring diagram for the rear window on my comp that i scanned for someone else ... i will post it.. it may.....or may not help. oops, just realized its for 89 and later..and for a sub... Haynes doesnt even show pre 89 power window schematic so hopefully this is close enough..

[79BIG10]

I'm definately thinking on parttiming the case now but with the kit I found online at Summit and some new hubs. I'm not going to off road this that much or anything for the time being. Right now I'm looking at getting it up and running with the kinks worked out. It will rb the back up truck when I work on the other one.

Jon thanks for the scan. I have a wiring schematic for a 79 truck but not sure if it will work on my blazer.