Should I buy it?? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

454c20 · 01-21-2007, 02:45 PM

Heys guys...well its my first post and what else would it be about besides a possible purchase lol.

I just took a look at a 1969 C20 2wd longbed. The truck has a 1972 454 in it but was originally a 396 truck (still has the badging and L47 on the SPID sticker in the glovebox). Rebuilt turbo 400 trans (original turbo 400 trans comes with it), A/C is intact too. Truck has a Dana 60 rear, coil springs out back, power brakes with front discs, and power steering too. It came as a camper special, even had dual batteries. Frame and suspenion looked in good shape.

Now the bad...bed is junk, needs both doors, drivers side inner and outter fender, and the crossmembers under the cab are starting to rot. The inner visor mount in the cab is rotted too.

Asking price is $1500. What do you guys think its worth? Should I go for it? It seems like a pretty loaded truck being a big block, a/c, P/S, and P/B. If that price is too much, what do you guys think its worth? Good projcet to start with?

Thanks guys
Nick

PanelDeland · 01-21-2007, 02:53 PM

Nick,in the current climate that is a fairly reasonable price.Pics would help with worth but ultimately it's worth what you will pay for it.the mechanicals on these trucks are easy but paint and bodywork can get pricey.A/C,ps,pb are nice.Does it have tilt wheel?Are you looking to build it for...Show? Work? Daily Driver?Drag truck? AQll of these factors help determine what it's worth.

Longhorn Man · 01-21-2007, 02:57 PM

Sorry... I'm goin the other way on this. If the cross members are rotting, and it needs all the body panels replaced, then it is one step from a parts truck. Granted, sounds liek a sweet parts truck, but if it had an inline or a 350, no one would even consider it for 800 bucks.
I say find a more solid example.
Welcome to the boards

454c20 · 01-21-2007, 03:02 PM

I'm not looking for a drag truck, not a show truck either. More or less a clean daily driver/parts hauler, would probably put a hitch back on the truck and make it a tow rig too.

I didnt notice if the truck had tilt or not. It needs a resto for sure, wish I could find somethign closer...hmmm

Thanks guys
Nick

krue · 01-21-2007, 03:27 PM

Welcome to the board regardless of your decision. To me it sounds like a great donor truck (driveline mostly).

454c20 · 01-21-2007, 03:34 PM

Just throwing this out there but anyone in the New England Area have a decent 67-72 chevy truck they are looking to get rid of?? I've searched the classifieds but nothing in my area right now.

Thanks guys
Nick

corn · 01-21-2007, 03:51 PM

welcome nick

see ten · 01-21-2007, 03:52 PM

Hmmm, Rust in the visor area...... sounds like a donor truck for another project. Welcome to the board and don't give up, the right truck is out there waiting for you!

PanelDeland · 01-21-2007, 04:23 PM

Longhorn's right again.I missed the crossmembers and inner visor.There is always more rust than you can see.If the crossmembers are bad the floor is probably shot too.The general rule I have found is that the better body(on anything) you start with the cheaper it is to build.You can usually pay $100.00 more and save $300.00 on bodywork.(This includes wives and girlfriends)LOL

65-72 chevytoys · 01-21-2007, 04:44 PM

The most important parts of these trucks is the cab and frame. You can get everything else new if it needs it. THat can be pricey and it sounds you will need all new panels on front and the bed. But if you have rot in the top of the windshild frame and the frame crossmejrs you might as well look for another truck because that is what you will need to fix it. I would ask what he wants for the motor if you just have to have a big block then get another truck to put it in, but otherwise run away.

weasel29gm · 01-21-2007, 05:33 PM

I agree with Panel and L/horn pass on it. I looked at a small block like that one, had the same rust. Wanted $1500 worth $700-800.Take time and shop oh and welcome also!!

FarmTruk · 01-21-2007, 06:39 PM

Well, keep in mind that "asking price" is negotiable. He "wants" $1500, but would he "take" $500 ? Sure would make it a better deal.

454c20 · 01-21-2007, 09:04 PM

The frame crossmembers are in good shape, its the under cab supports that are starting to rot. I could probably get it for $1000-1200 but no lower than that for sure. Hes in no rush to sell it, thats the big issue in knocking the price down. Big block, a/c, ps and pb are whats pushing me towards the truck...but I will probably hold of for now and find something cleaner.

Thanks guys
Nick

68GMC454 · 01-22-2007, 12:08 AM

i wouldnt give more than 600 for it if it runs good..the rest is junk..

qksilver · 01-22-2007, 12:21 AM

get the best body and frame you can, the rest is easier and cheaper than body and frame work

**jerry moss** · 01-22-2007, 12:31 AM

sounds way too high----but-- if the big block run out good with all correct a-c, p-s and alt. bracketry, thats worth an easy grand by itself. good donor truck for a 1/2 ton short bed. just my two cents

01-21-2007, 02:45 PM	#1
454c20 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Cape Cod Posts: 69	Should I buy it?? Heys guys...well its my first post and what else would it be about besides a possible purchase lol. I just took a look at a 1969 C20 2wd longbed. The truck has a 1972 454 in it but was originally a 396 truck (still has the badging and L47 on the SPID sticker in the glovebox). Rebuilt turbo 400 trans (original turbo 400 trans comes with it), A/C is intact too. Truck has a Dana 60 rear, coil springs out back, power brakes with front discs, and power steering too. It came as a camper special, even had dual batteries. Frame and suspenion looked in good shape. Now the bad...bed is junk, needs both doors, drivers side inner and outter fender, and the crossmembers under the cab are starting to rot. The inner visor mount in the cab is rotted too. Asking price is $1500. What do you guys think its worth? Should I go for it? It seems like a pretty loaded truck being a big block, a/c, P/S, and P/B. If that price is too much, what do you guys think its worth? Good projcet to start with? Thanks guys Nick

01-21-2007, 02:53 PM	#2
PanelDeland I am a Referee of life. Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Greensboro N.C. Posts: 13,993	Re: Should I buy it?? Nick,in the current climate that is a fairly reasonable price.Pics would help with worth but ultimately it's worth what you will pay for it.the mechanicals on these trucks are easy but paint and bodywork can get pricey.A/C,ps,pb are nice.Does it have tilt wheel?Are you looking to build it for...Show? Work? Daily Driver?Drag truck? AQll of these factors help determine what it's worth. __________________ The 47-present Chevrolet and GMC Truck Message Board Network,it's owners,moderators,members,and associates of any type should not be held responsible for my opinion. You can't fix stupid,not even with duct tape. "My appearance is due to the fact that "GOD" does punish you for having too much fun!" Barrett-Jackson has perfected alchemy,they make rust into gold! "You can lead a horse to water but you can't saddle a duck" "Cleverly disguised as a 'Responsible Adult' "Sometimes your Knight in shining armor is just a retard in tinfoil"

01-21-2007, 02:57 PM	#3
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Re: Should I buy it?? Sorry... I'm goin the other way on this. If the cross members are rotting, and it needs all the body panels replaced, then it is one step from a parts truck. Granted, sounds liek a sweet parts truck, but if it had an inline or a 350, no one would even consider it for 800 bucks. I say find a more solid example. Welcome to the boards

01-21-2007, 03:02 PM	#4
454c20 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Cape Cod Posts: 69	Re: Should I buy it?? I'm not looking for a drag truck, not a show truck either. More or less a clean daily driver/parts hauler, would probably put a hitch back on the truck and make it a tow rig too. I didnt notice if the truck had tilt or not. It needs a resto for sure, wish I could find somethign closer...hmmm Thanks guys Nick

01-21-2007, 03:27 PM	#5
krue Designated A-hole! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 36,450	Re: Should I buy it?? Welcome to the board regardless of your decision. To me it sounds like a great donor truck (driveline mostly). __________________ "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck"

01-21-2007, 03:34 PM	#6
454c20 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Cape Cod Posts: 69	Re: Should I buy it?? Just throwing this out there but anyone in the New England Area have a decent 67-72 chevy truck they are looking to get rid of?? I've searched the classifieds but nothing in my area right now. Thanks guys Nick

01-21-2007, 03:51 PM	#7
corn Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: here Posts: 5,789	Re: Should I buy it?? welcome nick

01-21-2007, 03:52 PM	#8
see ten WTB this ad Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Lafayette Georgia Posts: 5,073	Re: Should I buy it?? Hmmm, Rust in the visor area...... sounds like a donor truck for another project. Welcome to the board and don't give up, the right truck is out there waiting for you!

01-21-2007, 04:23 PM	#9
PanelDeland I am a Referee of life. Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Greensboro N.C. Posts: 13,993	Re: Should I buy it?? Longhorn's right again.I missed the crossmembers and inner visor.There is always more rust than you can see.If the crossmembers are bad the floor is probably shot too.The general rule I have found is that the better body(on anything) you start with the cheaper it is to build.You can usually pay $100.00 more and save $300.00 on bodywork.(This includes wives and girlfriends)LOL __________________ The 47-present Chevrolet and GMC Truck Message Board Network,it's owners,moderators,members,and associates of any type should not be held responsible for my opinion. You can't fix stupid,not even with duct tape. "My appearance is due to the fact that "GOD" does punish you for having too much fun!" Barrett-Jackson has perfected alchemy,they make rust into gold! "You can lead a horse to water but you can't saddle a duck" "Cleverly disguised as a 'Responsible Adult' "Sometimes your Knight in shining armor is just a retard in tinfoil"

01-21-2007, 04:44 PM	#10
65-72 chevytoys Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Wesley Chapel, Florida Posts: 1,113	Re: Should I buy it?? The most important parts of these trucks is the cab and frame. You can get everything else new if it needs it. THat can be pricey and it sounds you will need all new panels on front and the bed. But if you have rot in the top of the windshild frame and the frame crossmejrs you might as well look for another truck because that is what you will need to fix it. I would ask what he wants for the motor if you just have to have a big block then get another truck to put it in, but otherwise run away. __________________ 2004 Chevy Silverado 1500LS SWB 5.3L 2004 Corvette Z16 #770 Wish I had not sold 72 blazer

01-21-2007, 05:33 PM	#11
weasel29gm SLOW BUT SURE,BUT CLOSER Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: eleanor wv usa Posts: 3,091	Re: Should I buy it?? I agree with Panel and L/horn pass on it. I looked at a small block like that one, had the same rust. Wanted $1500 worth $700-800.Take time and shop oh and welcome also!! __________________ 69 C-10, OWNED 35YRS... 350 over 30, 350 Turbo, 3:73 Posi P/S, P/B Black with red and black int. ''LOVE THESE OLD ''TRUCKS.......

01-21-2007, 06:39 PM	#12
FarmTruk In Memoriam... Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Wallburg, NC Posts: 1,216	Re: Should I buy it?? Well, keep in mind that "asking price" is negotiable. He "wants" $1500, but would he "take" $500 ? Sure would make it a better deal. __________________ '68 C10 SWB 307ci 2BBL *FarmTruk Pics Here* *"You know, doing what is right is easy. The problem is knowing what is right."*

01-21-2007, 09:04 PM	#13
454c20 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Cape Cod Posts: 69	Re: Should I buy it?? The frame crossmembers are in good shape, its the under cab supports that are starting to rot. I could probably get it for $1000-1200 but no lower than that for sure. Hes in no rush to sell it, thats the big issue in knocking the price down. Big block, a/c, ps and pb are whats pushing me towards the truck...but I will probably hold of for now and find something cleaner. Thanks guys Nick

01-22-2007, 12:08 AM	#14
68GMC454 THE VILLIAGE IDIOT Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Tooele, Utah Posts: 1,405	Re: Should I buy it?? i wouldnt give more than 600 for it if it runs good..the rest is junk.. __________________ honestly honey,,i have no idea how that truck got here.

01-22-2007, 12:21 AM	#15
qksilver Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Southern Pines NC Posts: 3,853	Re: Should I buy it?? get the best body and frame you can, the rest is easier and cheaper than body and frame work



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01-22-2007, 12:31 AM	#16
jerry moss Born Psycho Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: brentwood,cal,usa Posts: 4,791	Re: Should I buy it?? sounds way too high----but-- if the big block run out good with all correct a-c, p-s and alt. bracketry, thats worth an easy grand by itself. good donor truck for a 1/2 ton short bed. just my two cents __________________ jerry moss 72 cheyenne super K20- tilt,tach,vacuum,speedwarning,buckets,shoulder belts,am/fm,tow hooks,bumper guards,toolbox,aux. fuel tank,posi front and rear,plus other goodies!!! SOLD 69 suburban K20-tilt,tach,vacuum,speedwarning,buckets,shoulder belts,am/fm,4 inch all spring lift,4 speed, 14 bolt full floater, dana 44 HD,warn winch,posi front and rear,tow hooks,plus other goodies. 73/80 chevy/gmc K20 SB400,turbo 400,205,tilt,a-c,gas hog. 77 K/5 cheyenne blazer-daily driver/beater. SON HAS IT NOW BRENTWOOD,CALIFORNIA

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