My T-5 swap all done but got bad trany

[tkeduk8r]

Leon,
Can you post some pics of your install???? shifter, seat etc????
Thanks from a friend to the north!!!
--Mike

[Zeke's Garage]

Did you have to add/modify the crossmember for your swap? I've got the inline 6 with a 3 speed in mine and the transmission isn't supported in the rear. So when I put my T-5 in I'm not really sure what to expect. My T-5 does have two braces that run from the bottom middle up to what looks to be the bottom of the bell housing. I guess I won't really know until I start putting it in.

[Blackjeep99]

I had a 3sp in mine too it also did not have a cross member I didn't put one in I was going to see hw it drove first. It seemed ok without it but I only drove around 70 miles in 2 days. I don't think I'm gona put one in. Unless I notice vibration or anything else.

[LockDoc]

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I'll post up some pics if it ever stops raining... Mine had braces on it too but with the bell housing mounts I don't think you have to have the braces or a rear tranny mount...

LockDoc

[raycow]

Blackjeep, I see several potential problem areas that will cause exactly the trouble you are describing, and it's not the fault of the transmission. Please answer the following questions.

1. Do you have a stock 69 truck bellhousing? If not, what kind?

2. Did you use a step ring on the front bearing retainer (or pressed into the bellhousing center hole)?

3. Did you use a spacer plate between the transmission and bellhousing?

4. Did you shorten the input shaft and the bearing retainer snout?

Ray

[Oil Can Larry]

Originally Posted by raycow

Blackjeep, I see several potential problem areas that will cause exactly the trouble you are describing, and it's not the fault of the transmission. Please answer the following questions.

1. Do you have a stock 69 truck bellhousing? If not, what kind?

2. Did you use a step ring on the front bearing retainer (or pressed into the bellhousing center hole)?

3. Did you use a spacer plate between the transmission and bellhousing?

4. Did you shorten the input shaft and the bearing retainer snout?

Ray

raycow, Sounds like you know a little something about this type of swap. What are the steps to ensure the swap goes well? I understand there is an aftermarket spacer plate necessary, as the input shaft is longer on the T-5. Is this correct? What else do I need to know?

[sourkraut]

i had used a nv3500 in mine and everything has worked great so far. used the auto crossmember, had to move it back but worked great. found a master clutch cylinder that has boltable ear tabs not the plastic snap one. have good clutch action and it engages about half pedal. hooked the mc upto the original clutch setup so no have mods. the only think was i had to get a shortened driveshaft made. which was like $200 for new everything from scratch, so not bad but one point to know going into it. here is a couple pics but can check them all out at my build thread
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=359200

you can see in the one picture that i used a peice of stock to take up the slack between the mc and clutch pedal difference.

[sourkraut]

one more of how the clutch stop with brace and powdercoated and rebuilt. when brake pedal is hooked up they are in the exact same position and look equal from the seat, so no feet fumbling between them.

[raycow]

Originally Posted by slomotion

Raycow, I'm curious too. I put a T5 behind a 292, and did need to make up a spacer to center-up the trans front bearing retainer in the bell housing, but I'm under the impression that your #3 & #4 is an either/or. Personally, I cut my pilot bearing (In the flywheel) down to a heavy 1/2", and drove it deep into the flywheel, while cutting about 1/4 inch off of the end of the trans input shaft. These three mods allowed the trans to fit up with no problems.
I had to do something with the mounting bolts....can't remember exactly what it was, and at the moment am too lazy to crawl under the truck and look....

Slomotion, you are absolutely right. #3 & #4 are alternatives. I asked about both just to find out if Blackjeep did one or the other.

When I installed my T-5 I did pretty much the same as you. I did several test fit-ups without the clutch so I could see where the interference was. First was the shaft pilot bottoming out in the crank. Next was the shaft shoulder up against the pilot bushing. Last was the end of the bearing retainer against the clutch disc hub. I know the spacer plate would have solved all of those problems, but I am an old-school rodder and like to do that kind of stuff myself.

On the mounting bolts, you may have needed to enlarge the holes in the ears because the bolts wouldn't go through. Also, I had to use allen head bolts because there wasn't enough room to get a socket on the hex heads.

Ray

[Blackjeep99]

Yes I shortened the output shaft and the bearing retainer shaft. Did several mock ups before the final assembly all was good. As I said before I only had problems with 2nd and 3rd gear making a wining sound 1st 4th and 5th gear were all normal as they should be. I got another trans hope to have it in tonite. Will let everyone know how it goes.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by tkeduk8r

Leon,
Can you post some pics of your install???? shifter, seat etc????
Thanks from a friend to the north!!!
--Mike

Hey mike, I got some pics taken. I bent the shift lever straight up from where the sharp bend was and it worked pretty good. It isn't as close to the dash as it looks. The shifter on it now is off of a full size pickup 5 speed and it is too big to screw on the shaft. I just slid it down over the shift lever so I could test drive it.

The yellow circle shows where the original shifter hole was and the new hole is about 8-1/4" back.

LockDoc