Big Block Monster Stroker

[thirdstreettito]

Well, why a 555? Why not just buy a crate 572? Or built 502? Both have good hp for under $15K.

[djracer]

Big inch Big Block Chevy motors are easier on parts and cheaper to maintain. I will argue all day that small blocks are great for the street and big blocks are for the track. You can buy parts for a big block off the shelf where the faster small blocks usually have allot of custom pieces. I ran my stock block, stock crank 468 forever before I finally killed it.

[thirdstreettito]

Ah ok, that sums it up, gracias!

[1971ls1longbed]

Originally Posted by thirdstreettito

I have a question, why do you want to go 555? Why not add a turbo or supercharger to make good power?

As much fun as turbo or SC is the added cost of upgrading my fuel system, getting a turbo and all the accessories, changing the exhaust, and so on is the same as building a big motor and there is less to go wrong

[ripdog28]

A 555+ with some 335 AFR cnc heads or better can make over 800hp pump gas....... Figure $4500+ for shortblock, $3300+ for heads, $1000 roller cam, $8800 thus far so say close to $10k (Depending on reusable parts) for 800 is sick. This is if you assemble of course. About $13000+ if not. A base turbo engine that will last and makes this power is easily $15000 and requires much more tuning and for this $$ figure it is done cheaply. Most quality Turbo builds i have seen are easily $23000-$30000+. I cringe when i think that I just put 10k into my yard and i think, Man i could have had some CNC afr heads, 540+ci, roller cam....

[PGSigns]

Don't forget the cost of everything to make all that power work. For a driver motor you need to look into how much power you drive train can hold and just build to that. My 555 made 908hp and 760tq and I would never put something like that in a truck that is street driven, because if you are worried about the cost of the motor wait till you see what the cost of putting a truck together is to hold a pump gas 598.
Jimmy

[70shortwide]

i am the guy the board member that told the op that. i had a 555 built with a 427 tall deck block. no filler material was put in i drove it on the street all the time and it was pump gas. i had a 4.750 stroke crank. i believe the rods were 6.535 made by oliver. pistons were srp off the shelf. and i had a set of 1000 dollar pro comp heads. all solid roller. truck went 11.20's at 115 and weighed about 3950 with me in it. cost of building a tall deck is not more expensive. there are quite a few motors like this one around town that work great. i would suggest a vaccuum pump. and most people like me dont have 10 grand to spend on a crate motor so we have to cash flow it even if the end result is the same price. not tryin to offend anybody so please dont take it like that im just giving my experience with the same motor hes talking about.
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[djracer]

I totally understand it being easier to buy a few pieces at a time than to buy one built. Personally I would do a pump gas 496 in a standard 454 block or buy an aftermarket block. A friend of mine built a pump gas 496 with patriot heads that went 6.30's in the eighth in a fairly heavy car. In the 496 build he used a later model 454 block and did very little clearancing to clear a 4.25 stroke with steel rods.

[1971ls1longbed]

Not to piss on anyones parade but i talked to my engine builder, who has been in business for over 35 years and is a very competitive racer at englishtown nj, atco nj, and cecil county md, has confirmed that a 555 using a tall 427 and a 4.750 crank is nothing new and when done with a cnc machine is totally fine for street use. So i will be starting the engine that will power a true street brawler later to come.

[pockets]

Originally Posted by 70shortwide

i am the guy the board member that told the op that. i had a 555 built with a 427 tall deck block. no filler material was put in i drove it on the street all the time and it was pump gas. i had a 4.750 stroke crank. i believe the rods were 6.535 made by oliver. pistons were srp off the shelf. and i had a set of 1000 dollar pro comp heads. all solid roller. truck went 11.20's at 115 and weighed about 3950 with me in it. cost of building a tall deck is not more expensive. there are quite a few motors like this one around town that work great. i would suggest a vaccuum pump. and most people like me dont have 10 grand to spend on a crate motor so we have to cash flow it even if the end result is the same price. not tryin to offend anybody so please dont take it like that im just giving my experience with the same motor hes talking about.
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You wouldn't happen to recall where you got your crank or what brand it was do you?

[El Campo]

I have a 535 (or thereabouts) BBC that is made by a 4.5 inch stroke and a 427T block .100 over. Street driven but I beat it hard on the track sometime too. Got the whole block and rotating assembly from Competition Products in Osh Kosh, Wisconsin. The block sonic tested, decked, bored, polished, honed and clearanced went for $1250. And the good thing about this is that they have it figured out how to use dime a dozen 454 pistons with longer rods so that you dont have to get custom pistons. Got JE pistons in mine that I think cost only about 400 something dollars. Have had no problems with it. Only bad thing with getting stroke this long is that HP and torque start to fall off fast. After about 5000 though it starts to fall off fast and I imagine that it would be "worse" with that longer stroke.. Don't get me wrong, I LOVE cubic inches and would def put the bigger stroke in one if it would fit. I just personally would not wind it to the moon for obvious reasons. These engines are AWESOME on the street though and it feels like you are driving a rocket (esp at stop lights against imports) If you have never checked out CP you should, they get a lot of factory blems too from Dart, Merlin, etc that they sell dirt cheap sometimes. I have always been a Summit man but CP is damn good. Bottom line is ANYTHING over 500 CI is kick ass to drive

[Marv D]

Mine makes 518 HP/666lb ft of T at 1500 RPMs (this was the lowest RPM reading the dyno took)

not trying to start any or anything but,,, ummm there is DEFINATELY a typo in there ElCampo,, 666 pounds of torque at 1500rpm is only 190.2HP

and 598 pounds at 5100 is 580hP,, something is amiss with the numbers there.

TQ and HP are identical at 5252rpm

The formula is simply (torque x rpm) / 5252 = HP,, there ain't no other way to do it.

[pockets]

Originally Posted by Marv D

not trying to start any or anything but,,, ummm there is DEFINATELY a typo in there ElCampo,, 666 pounds of torque at 1500rpm is only 190.2HP

and 598 pounds at 5100 is 580hP,, something is amiss with the numbers there.

TQ and HP are identical at 5252rpm

The formula is simply (torque x rpm) / 5252 = HP,, there ain't no other way to do it.

just a guess, but maybe the hp quoted was max and the torque was at 1500. that extra "/" maybe be confusing us readers (?).

[70shortwide]

i think it had a callies crank. but i cant remember for sure
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[El Campo]

The jokes on me!!! I could have swore that's what the dyno sheet read. I guess that's what I get for not doing my homework. All I know tho Is that regardless of all my ignorance in the HP/T curves and how to read dyno sheets it's fast as hell!! Effortlessly blows those big tires off at 50mph
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[pockets]

Originally Posted by El Campo

The jokes on me!!! I could have swore that's what the dyno sheet read. I guess that's what I get for not doing my homework. All I know tho Is that regardless of all my ignorance in the HP/T curves and how to read dyno sheets it's fast as hell!! Effortlessly blows those big tires off at 50mph
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and in the end, that is probably all that matters

[El Campo]

I don't mean to jack this thread so I'm going to start a new thread about HP/T and I would appreciate the experts to check it out and comment. Thanks!
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[ripdog28]

71LS1: Just a little insight. Im sure the eng builder is more then capable but if your spending $1500 for the block and all the work, the $300 extra will reveal more power. 555ci=555ci however, the larger bore allows the valves to breath better which makes more power. It also allows for a better Con rod/stroke ratio which will help you RPM and is not such a wear on the parts. That extra 1/4 in stroke means faster piston speed and more chance for a problem. Piston speed is very important if racing. I know it is your choice but just if you did not know.

[1971ls1longbed]

Originally Posted by ripdog28

71LS1: Just a little insight. Im sure the eng builder is more then capable but if your spending $1500 for the block and all the work, the $300 extra will reveal more power. 555ci=555ci however, the larger bore allows the valves to breath better which makes more power. It also allows for a better Con rod/stroke ratio which will help you RPM and is not such a wear on the parts. That extra 1/4 in stroke means faster piston speed and more chance for a problem. Piston speed is very important if racing. I know it is your choice but just if you did not know.

Well i called today and he is giving me the 427T for free and is only charging me $500 to cnc the block. I do appreciate everyones advice and concerns. You do bring up some valid points that i have taken up with him. but like i said this engine is going into a pure street drive brawler that will see track time but only for bragging rights.

[ripdog28]

Originally Posted by 1971ls1longbed

Well i called today and he is giving me the 427T for free and is only charging me $500 to cnc the block. I do appreciate everyones advice and concerns. You do bring up some valid points that i have taken up with him. but like i said this engine is going into a pure street drive brawler that will see track time but only for bragging rights.

Well for that price I would take it also.
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[1971ls1longbed]

I do always try to get what i need on the cheap. I love these trucks and everything that goes with them, but i do feel that b/c of the economy and constantly rising prices it makes it harder for your average working class guy to afford to build one of these and that is a damn shame. So as this motor goes together i will keep a tally of costs and where i got the stuff from to give hope to those of use who work like slobs just to buy a few parts

[nomrlz]

and here i was gonna suggest just getting a 1005ci sonny motor. they're cheap right now at $125K

but seriously. i love the 555's if you have the money

[AirMale]

just down the road from u longbed, hit me up if u need anything

[1971ls1longbed]

Originally Posted by AirMale

just down the road from u longbed, hit me up if u need anything

yea u know anyone that does body work

[AirMale]

I know a guy who does amazing body work but doesn't do the paint if that helps.