Rear U joint "U" bolts

[boilrman]

I cant get the u bolts holding the rear u joint together to come out. I have hammered on them and pried between the u bolt and the joint itself. Seems like they are siezed inside. I need to change out the carrier bearing and figured I would change the other 3 joints as well while I have it out.

Would heat from a propane torch do me any good? I cant be down any longer than necessary with the truck as it is all I have to get around with while the wife is working. I wish the rear ones had the bracket and 2 studs like the front one does.

The ujoints look as if they have been changed once before, dont know for sure. But I have to get my carrier changed as it has about 1/2" play in it when I lift up on the driveshaft.

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1971 Chevy 1/2t, 350 -- SOLD
1998 Yamaha V-Star 650
1970 Chevy 3/4t, I6(freshly rebuilt), 4 speed
Keokuk,IA

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[slam33]

I had one snap on me a couple of weeks back. I found out that be over torqueing the nut snaped the u-bolt right off

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71 basic C-10 350. The only option is the rust.No nothing on it, but thats all about to change. <A HREF="http://www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html?1004806705410

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[COBALT]

Ouch. Yeah, it sounds like you need to take that play out.

Hmmm. I didn't have any difficulties like that. A little tapping with a 2 lb hammer and they came right out! Try soaking them with liquid wrench and let them sit for an hour or two. Then go out there and ALTERNATELY tap on each side of the U-bolt. They should wiggle loose. You might consider using a cold chizel that is the same shank size as the U-bolt. No force is like direct force.

If that doesn't work then use the torch (make sure you don't have liquid wrench everywhere!). Heat it just enough to make it flex. DON'T make it glow, or scorch it black.

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'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd w/ 350ci/400THM and a wood bed!
'69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd w/ ORIGINAL 350ci/4sp Manual and a wood bed (parts beast).
Seattle, WA.

*See pics of my trucks and project at www.webshots.com!

[Fast68Chevy]

they shouldnt be frozen in there like that, ive never run across such a problem either, usually just lightly tapping on them will loosen them right up, most the time they wil just pull out with fingers after the nuts are removed. if they realyl wont come out, then maye have to justr cut them and get a couple different ones off someone.

hmm..

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-71/C-10(thx teeitup and crews!)350 4+4/CH465(thx 71Chev, GMCPaul, and CPNE)longfleet bed(thnx meathead95)!still building it-
-'84 Z28(Z28) 1G1AP87GXEL100000 with H.O. 305/4bbl/190net/hp(L69) 3.73 rear(GT4/YC4) 700R4(MD8-MXO) & other goodies
-79 G20 pass van, 350/th350/10bolt,
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Randy- Lincoln, IL

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[boilrman]

I had everything else loose and had to tighten it all back up because I ran out of time. After I get home at 9 tomorrow morning will try again. I will have until 3 pm Friday to get it done.

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1971 Chevy 1/2t, 350 -- SOLD
1998 Yamaha V-Star 650
1970 Chevy 3/4t, I6(freshly rebuilt), 4 speed
Keokuk,IA

http://communities.msn.com/SchweringFamily/shoebox.msnw

MSN Messenger = boilrman
Find a job you love and you'll never have to work a day in your life.

[trukman1]

Boilerman, You might try soaking it with Liquid Wrench each day and taping the side of the yoke with a hammer along side the u-bolt holes (don't get mad and wail the tar out of'em though). If that fails heat the yoke down along the side where the bolt goes through so it'll expand then try driving out the u-bolts. Just some things that worked for me in the past although I've never seen your particular problem. Good luck!

[Huck]

Understand your problem. Have a rear with bolts so rusted into the control arms, that a 10 pound sledge wouldn't move them. Tried tourching the control arms but didn't want to ruin the rear so~~~~will just cut the U bolts and get new ones. They are cheap so don't kill yourself with the old ones unless you need the control arms. If so and still can't get them out, you may need to bit the bullet. Sorry but sometimes rust is like a weld!

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72 Cheyenne, 350, 5spd, LWB, Super trim.
71 GMC JIMMY 4X4 --needs stuff-!

[Fast68Chevy]

i dont see how they could be siezed into the yoke due to corrosion or anything and im saying that as I am sitting here in middle of rust belt just like you are, interesting,.,, the yokes usually stay just greasy enough due to being at the u joints, to keep from rust freezing like that- if thats what is causing them to be stuck in the yoke so badly. hmm... ive never had them be that hard to remove, not like that anyways
is there alot of rust or something ?

[COBALT]

I noticed my original U-bolts were actually good quality. They weren't hard to get out at all, and I had the original U-joints still in the driveline.

I've seen some cheaper U-bolts though, that I bet would rust up and lock themselves to the yoke. Just a guess as to why he's having so much trouble.

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'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd w/ 350ci/400THM and a wood bed!
'69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd w/ ORIGINAL 350ci/4sp Manual and a wood bed (parts beast).
Seattle, WA.

*See pics of my trucks and project at www.webshots.com!

[Huck]

UPS!! My mistake, got axel U bolts confused with drive shaft U bolts.
Same truck----rear universal joint ~~~the strap bolts just broke off in the rear hub! The frame also just fell apart when i lifted the rear bed with my tractor--springs just fell to the ground!