2WD C10 Modern/Performance Alignments

[hairlesshobo]

Mike, everywhere I have read failed to mention anything about the brakes needing to be locked in order to use a caster camber gauge. Would you be willing to explain why? Iljke to know how/why something affects something else when I do it, and I definitely want to make sure I take my time and do it right.

Also, i have yet to find a shop in town that does even a decent job at an alignment, especially one that you can ask for something other than what their computer says without them arguing with you. Plus, every shop I've been to here wants a minimum of 75 for a real alignment.

[BMERDOC]

I never explained that the brakes needed to be locked down either. I have been under the assumption that most would sub out the alignment. I haven't explained at home alignment because I have had a machine at my disposal for years now and haven't had to perform an alignment in that manner. As far as good alignment shops, I think its because you toss the key to them and tell them to align it. Leaving them to their own devices can cause them to be lazy. You would have to search out a shop that would be willing to work with you on the specs.
In short, the brakes need to be locked so that the wheels don't move as you complete the caster sweep. The lock tool is picturd in a previous post. A steering lock is also shown to keep the steering wheel straight as toe is adjusted.

[Mike_82_Shortbox]

Originally Posted by hairlesshobo

Mike, everywhere I have read failed to mention anything about the brakes needing to be locked in order to use a caster camber gauge. Would you be willing to explain why? Iljke to know how/why something affects something else when I do it, and I definitely want to make sure I take my time and do it right.

Also, i have yet to find a shop in town that does even a decent job at an alignment, especially one that you can ask for something other than what their computer says without them arguing with you. Plus, every shop I've been to here wants a minimum of 75 for a real alignment.

Hobo,

Sorry, I am in Oregon, and I know prices vary widely.

I don't really know if you need to lock your wheels or not. I don't know what kind of equipment you are using. But in order to properly measure the caster on an alignment machine, the brakes have to be locked so that the alignment heads will not move off-axis, and allow them to measure the caster angle.

For the left wheel, with positive caster, a line drawn from the center of the spindle will move in an upward arc when the steering wheel is turned right, and downward when it is turned left. That angle from horizontal is the caster angle, and it can only be measured by machine when the brakes are locked.

Your guage may work without having to do this, but I don't see how...

Mike

[hairlesshobo]

Originally Posted by Mike_82_Shortbox

Hobo,

Sorry, I am in Oregon, and I know prices vary widely.

I don't really know if you need to lock your wheels or not. I don't know what kind of equipment you are using. But in order to properly measure the caster on an alignment machine, the brakes have to be locked so that the alignment heads will not move off-axis, and allow them to measure the caster angle.

For the left wheel, with positive caster, a line drawn from the center of the spindle will move in an upward arc when the steering wheel is turned right, and downward when it is turned left. That angle from horizontal is the caster angle, and it can only be measured by machine when the brakes are locked.

Your guage may work without having to do this, but I don't see how...

Mike

For reference sake, this is the gauge that I am using: http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...id=129&catid=5

Even though I didn't have much room to work when I tried to look at my alignment yesterday, I was in fact able to try out the gauge and get a feel for how it works. I re-read the directions that came with the gauge about 10 times before starting. It appears that the brakes don't need to be locked when doing an alignment with the bubble style gauge. I assume this is because when you do your 40* sweep, you sweep out first, rotate the gauge until it is level with the ground and set caster to 0*, then sweep past center to 20* inward and rotate the gauge again to be level with the ground. With this in mind, they expect you to rotate the gauge when setting caster so if the tire were to roll a little, it wouldn't make much of a difference because you have to re level the gauge each time anyways.

I still think it's a wise choice to lock the e-brake anyways just to make sure it doesn't try to slip off the turn plates or anything like that.

Just my thoughts about this, but who knows.. I may be completely wrong, won't be the first time.

-Steve

[Mike_82_Shortbox]

Originally Posted by hairlesshobo

For reference sake, this is the gauge that I am using: http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...id=129&catid=5

Even though I didn't have much room to work when I tried to look at my alignment yesterday, I was in fact able to try out the gauge and get a feel for how it works. I re-read the directions that came with the gauge about 10 times before starting. It appears that the brakes don't need to be locked when doing an alignment with the bubble style gauge. I assume this is because when you do your 40* sweep, you sweep out first, rotate the gauge until it is level with the ground and set caster to 0*, then sweep past center to 20* inward and rotate the gauge again to be level with the ground. With this in mind, they expect you to rotate the gauge when setting caster so if the tire were to roll a little, it wouldn't make much of a difference because you have to re level the gauge each time anyways.

I still think it's a wise choice to lock the e-brake anyways just to make sure it doesn't try to slip off the turn plates or anything like that.

Just my thoughts about this, but who knows.. I may be completely wrong, won't be the first time.

-Steve

Steve,

Looks like you got it. The releveling of the guage is the equivalent to locking the brakes on an electronic machine it seems, so if you go by the instructions, you should be fine. Thanks for clearing it up for me.

Mike