New Project New Problems!

[BMERDOC]

I got my latest project running (carb rebuild, new plugs, gas can in the floor board) but had troubles getting it to run smooth enough to warrant breaking out the vac gauge and tuning the carb. I was working through the problems I was having and figured a compression test was in order. Everyone was between 145 and 150 psi except for cyl 3 which turned out a paltry 25 psi. Oil in cylinder didn't raise compression so I pulled the valve cover and found this. Turns out the intake valve is stuck! Dang! Oh well, time to straighten this out!

[VA72C10]

Hope that's all it takes to get it running well! (all used lightly since I know it's a fair amount of work....

[Gene]

Install another pushrod and run the valves again. I had a bent one and because the rocker came off
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[midniteblues]

looks like your still missing a peice

[BMERDOC]

I rapped on the top of the valve enough to break spring pressure but it didn't budge. I'm gonna remove the spring (using the proper precautions) to see if I can get it to free up. Other than that the head needs to come off.

[BMERDOC]

Originally Posted by midniteblues

looks like your still missing a peice

Yes Sir! I noticed that myself! I have the patience of a Saint and will try to fish it out magnet style. We'll see what happens.

[VA72C10]

any progress?

[BMERDOC]

I will happily report that there was some good progress today! I brought my 22oz. ball peen and my brass hammer home from work. I figured if it was terminal then I couldn't do any worse by messing around with it. I made sure I had clearance between the valve and piston, laid my brass hammer on top of the retainer and mildly popped it squarely with the peen. No big over-the-head swings just deliberate. With two good wacks I noticed the valve was moving but not returning. I gave up and went in the house for a minute but then came back out and thats when I noticed it was back up. I went back to it and was able to get the valve to open and close. The NAPA on Staples Mill has the push rod in stock($2.00). I'll put it in and rotate the motor over to check for flat cams and binding. I'm going to use the boroscope to attempt to find the last piece of the push rod and retrieve it with my trusty flexible magnet.

I know, I know. I can jerk the heads off and machine this and rebuild that. Gene's comment about throwing another pushrod in it and running it is closer to my attitude than he ever thought. To me, this motor is a huntin' dog and not a house dog. So if I throw it out there and it don't hunt...it don't have a home. If I can get it to the point where I can get a timing light and a vacuum gauge on it I'm happy. If it doesn't last, I'll address it then. I may never see another problem from it.
I will say it was "sticky" and not "stuck". Stuck like rusted in. It was sticky like oil or goo so that may indicate a worn guide. I'm gonna chuck in that $2.00 push rod and let you know what I find.

[BMERDOC]

If your browsing and wondering what truck I'm refering to...

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=520782

[VA72C10]

cool....sounds like a good plan.

[68C15]

normally I cringe at the thought of any additive but I will stand behind my suggestion of Marvel Mystery Oil. add 1/2 quart and run it at idle for a half hour then change oil.

you have sludge/varnish on a few valve stems from it sitting. the ones that were in the open position got a chance to get a build up.

good luck, I like your thinking

[BMERDOC]

Originally Posted by 68C15

normally I cringe at the thought of any additive but I will stand behind my suggestion of Marvel Mystery Oil. add 1/2 quart and run it at idle for a half hour then change oil.

you have sludge/varnish on a few valve stems from it sitting. the ones that were in the open position got a chance to get a build up.

good luck, I like your thinking

Once I get it chugging along nicely and see that valve pumping up and down I do intend to follow a routine not unlike what you have suggested. I did just about the same thing with the I6 in my '67. Once that one was running I got it nice and warm, drained the oil overnight then when refilling I substituted 2qts ATF for oil for its high detergent properties. I changed the filter a couple of times and then drained the oil and am now on a regular schedule. Neither motor was dirty on the inside at all. I will probably use MMO this time to experiment. Lets see what happens.

[VA72C10]

thinking about it I'd wager MMO is at least part ATF because of its' color

[BMERDOC]

Back at it again today. Went out and "exercised" the #3 intake valve again. I used the boroscope to look down in the valley but I couldn't find my missing piece of push rod but I did see that the lifter was ok. I installed the push rod and adjusted it, spun the motor over with the valve cover off, everything looked fine. I did a compression test and it showed 150 psi! Time to fire it up! Cranking sounded way better than it had and then it fired right up. Woo hoo! I let it warm up a bit so that it would hold its own idle and went to adjusting the idle mixture. I couldn't get it any higher than 14 H.g. but as it idled the speed increased (I had to incrementally decrease idle) and vacuum reached 17 or 18 H.g.. It still shakes a bit but throttle response is good and the vac needle is steady. I checked the timing and its at 15*, the spec is 8* at 600rpm but I didn't have my tach with me so I didn't touch it for now. The vac advance is also on a ported supply so I'll have to do the research and find out what the vac advance was supposed to be connected to. It was running 30* with the advance connected. My gas can ran empty before I got tired of tinkering. Looks like this problem may be licked and I can continue getting it road worthy. Now for some pics.

[Vintage Windmills]

Curious to hear where the piece went. I bet that boroscope is invaluable in certain situations.

[midniteblues]

Now you can tell everybody you fixed the engine with a couple of hammers!lol

[BMERDOC]

Originally Posted by midniteblues

Now you can tell everybody you fixed the engine with a couple of hammers!lol

I have to work on science projects all day. It gives me great satisfaction to do what I want to get them running by my own laws. I would go at it with a 5lb. sledge if I had to! LOL! BTW, I'm no stranger to making it work. I had a problem with my I6 when I got it fired up...

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=478290

[BMERDOC]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

Curious to hear where the piece went. I bet that boroscope is invaluable in certain situations.

I'm not sure where that piece went. I'll have to pull the intake to find it. So much for the boroscope helping here but yes it does help. Too many of the holes in the head had flashing around them and wouldn't allow me to get the camera into the valley. The head is only 1/4" diameter but still too big. I wanted to post pics but cant find the cd to load the SW onto my laptop. The 'scope has the ability to both take pics and take video.

[VA72C10]

cool deal! Curious about the piece too....hoping it doesn't cause issues later but maybe just sitting in the lifter valley???

[BMERDOC]

I dont think it'll hurt much then again I'm not completely sure how big it is. The rod measures at 7.79". I can measure the remnants to see whats missing. I can only imaging that it would be a problem if it found its way through one of the big drain holes at the front of the motor, by the timing chain or in the holes above the camshaft. I'm trying to not think about it but it does bring up one of my favorite words: inevitabilty. Eventually, I'll have to remove the intake to retieve it.

[68C15]

it's probably in the pan by now. there, I said it. sue me. LOL

[Gene]

Take a large magnet and stick it on bottom of oil pan. If its there the magnet will keep it secure.
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[midniteblues]

There has been many items found in lifter valleys and oil pans.
maybe for assureance pull the dizzy an stick that badass scope in there.If you still dont see it then its stuck in the sludge in the pan an you could forget about it or use the magnet on it

[BMERDOC]

It suddenly occurred to me that I'm going under the assumption that it is only ONE piece! I'm still convinced it is but you never know. I save all magnets when I swap trans pans so maybe I'll throw one on the pan by the drain hole. maybe I'll throw a couple on the oil filter too. I'm not sure how much sludge is in there because the top of the heads are suprisingly clean.