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04-26-2015, 02:20 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Great White North
Posts: 1,520
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Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
I ran in the same issue when I tried to fit up both Dougs and Doug Thorleys. I ended up returning both sets to Slummit Racing (love their return policy). In the end I bought a set of Stan's. They fit great on my mock up but that was with stock shackles also. I too am running the ORD shackles, it will be interesting to see how mine fit. I bought the Stans purposely bare in case I needed to make a small tweak and then get them ceramic coated locally. I will say that overall the Stans were the highest quality but also a little more $$.
My set up is a little different that I had to move my engine 1-7/8" forward to allow for the NV4500 tranny. You've done such an amazing job detailing out this chassis I'm not sure how you could tweak the header without disturbing the ceramic coating.
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Jeff. '72 Blazer K5 "Camshaft opinions are like belly buttons; everyone has one and no two are alike" My Blazer Build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=626752 My Engine Build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=637336 Last edited by tjsblazer; 04-26-2015 at 05:55 PM. |
04-27-2015, 01:57 PM | #2 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Central Coast, CA
Posts: 774
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Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
Quote:
I talked to Doug Thorely this morning and we went through the pictures I sent over. He thinks it's the aftermarket Shackle being to thick but I told him even with the sock shackle the nut on the bolt will still interfere.. He's going to send the pics off to the engineers (or lack there of) lol and see what they come back with. I asked him " why wouldn't;t they just have the end of the collector tube bent a 1/4" inwards" he laughed and said that would require logic. The guy I was talking with suggested I put in a temporarily spacer and mount the rest of the exhaust system to force the header tube to bend inwards to give it the clearance I need.
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My Build Thread 72 K5 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=628612 Build version 2.0: 72 K5 6.0 LQ9, 4L80e, NP205 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=793192 ____________________________________________ 1972 CST K5 Blazer Dark Olive |
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04-27-2015, 02:19 PM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Central Coast, CA
Posts: 774
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Re: Attempting my first build 72 K5
Ran into another problem, but this is 100% my fault and nobody else to blame but myself.
When I ordered the engine, I inaccurately measured the distance between the engine block to the end of the water pump. I ordered my engine to come with a long style pump and I needed a short style.. The Water pump pully and the crankcase pully need to be replaced, too.. I'm sure making a habit out of pissing $$$$ away. I do have my old pullys and I was thinking of maybe just having those anodized locally but that would probably cost more than new aluminum spectre's like the one's on there now. I also noticed the Crankcase pully on my old engine is a 4 groove (2+2 style) Do I need a 4 groove pully to run AC or can I use a 3 Groove?
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My Build Thread 72 K5 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=628612 Build version 2.0: 72 K5 6.0 LQ9, 4L80e, NP205 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=793192 ____________________________________________ 1972 CST K5 Blazer Dark Olive |
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