Hood Ornament Application

[Foxcroft80]

Hello all,

I have a '68 C10 but it has a '69/'70 hood. I've recently purchased a bowtie for the front of the hood and am wondering how in the heck I'm supposed to reach the high right side from the underside to attach the emblem. I took off the hood latch hoping to find a hole big enough to get a hand up there, but no such luck (2 small holes). The original holes from where the badge were have been welded, but I think I can drill them out. Any suggestions? Thanks much...

[jocko]

welcome foxcroft. for awareness, a 69 hood does not fit a 67-68 due to the leading curve of the fenders. It may bolt on, but it doesn't actually fit with the fenders, unless somewhere along the line all the wickets have been jumped thru to make the transition to 69-70 fenders also.

I realize this isn't answering your question, but thought you might change your mind about spending $ on the 69/70 hood after reading this and look for a 67/68.

[In The Ten Ring]

Originally Posted by jocko

welcome foxcroft. for awareness, a 69 hood does not fit a 67-68 due to the leading curve of the fenders. It may bolt on, but it doesn't actually fit with the fenders, unless somewhere along the line all the wickets have been jumped thru to make the transition to 69-70 fenders also.

I realize this isn't answering your question, but thought you might change your mind about spending $ on the 69/70 hood after reading this and look for a 67/68.

I was thinking the same thing. Now if Foxcroft has changed his radiator core support, grill, and outer fenders, he'll be fine with the 1969 hood. If not......it will not line up at the grill.

[Foxcroft80]

Hi guys,

Yep, all wickets have been jumped through I have the grill and fenders of a '69, and the hood was on when I bought it and closes just fine. A bit of a Frankenstein, but it actually looks good. Now, any thoughts on how to get up in there to secure the backing nuts for the emblem?

[In The Ten Ring]

Hmm....

ttt

[CRMW]

Have you considered an auto body double sided tape?

[Foxcroft80]

Hi CRMW, I have not considered that. I could go that route. I'm fairly confident I can get the low left side secured from the back. I guess once I get my bowtie I'll see what happens. Thanks all for the suggestions!

[special-K]

The speed nuts have a collar on them. Can't you just put one in a socket with an extension to install? You could put a little sticky on it or if you have a small enough magnet you can put that in the socket to hold the nut. I have little magnets with sized rubber around them for just that purpose. But, I'd think, since it's an upward angle the nut would sit in the socket just fine.
Drilling out the welds will be the challenge. That is an uneven surface as well as being harder than surrounding sheetmetal. Maybe consider lowering or raising it a tad, like 1/4", and void all that.

[Foxcroft80]

Hi Special-K,

Thanks for the drilling tip! I hadn't thought of that. I'll probably scoot the emblem up a tad to clear the spots from the old weld. Like I said, I THINK I can get the left side with my hand. I'll also try the socket with extension for the right side. If I went the tape would I would need to cut the thread from the emblem off - I'd rather do it the right way! Thanks again.

Foxcroft-

[CRMW]

No worries Foxcroft, but growing up in a rust belt, I try to avoid drilling through the paint seal wherever possible. After all, there is a reason why manufactures stopped using the studs when the technology became available to avoid the penetrations.

Chris

[CRMW]

Chris

[Foxcroft80]

Hi Chris - absolutely true! I'm up in Maine so I'm no stranger to rust. I think I'll probably plan on sawing off the studs and attaching via tape.

[special-K]

Originally Posted by CRMW

No worries Foxcroft, but growing up in a rust belt, I try to avoid drilling through the paint seal wherever possible. After all, there is a reason why manufactures stopped using the studs when the technology became available to avoid the penetrations.

Chris

Yeah, and the reason is plastic stick-on emblems are cheaper. They could care less if your vehicle rusts out. They want you back for a new one sooner than later. When you drill through paint, just paint the bare metal. The emblem covers it up.

[Foxcroft80]

Good point, Special-K! I guess I'll have to see what I'm up against. I don't know how much wiggle room I'll have to float the emblem up and down as it will need to rest in the flared groove that goes over the top of the hood. I want it flush and riding proper - the candle on my cake is the way I think of it!

[special-K]

The proof is in the pudding, as they say

[summitflier]

I have a 68 stepside. But it has a 69/70 hood, and grille and fenders.
If you change all three of those it works.

Also, any GMC fender (67-72) will fit the 69 hood and grille.
Here is the proof.

I have replaced the fender (and wheels) since these pictures were taken.

[special-K]

That's a 69/70 Chevy with optional engine badge fender

[Foxcroft80]

Yep, that's the same setup I have. The truck is sprayed flat black now, so it will be easy to hit my drill holes with paint if that's the route I go. I'm still debating on trying to drill and attached as the original or if I should chop the studs and adhere via tape. What do you all think?

[special-K]

I would never do the tape. The emblem is heavy, for one thing, and you will have less chance for rust with the snug fit of a bolted emblem. I can see water running into the holes with the tape more than as bolted. You can put goop on the holes with either method. I like just how well these trucks were built and pretty much do things the way the factory did, since they got it so right. That is the original reason people fell in love with these trucks

[Foxcroft80]

Man, I just hope I drill the new holes correctly! Makes me nervous putting holes in the ol' girl...

[BrianG]

if you remove the 'pin' assembly that holds the hood down, I think that you have more room to get up in there.