A/C condenser

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by DieselSJ

Most new "A6" replacements are going to be a H6, which is a great compressor. Has the exact dimensions of the A6 and same line connections. Again, I went through 3 rebuilt A6 units and they all seized when I was charging the system. Finally bought a new H6 and have been very happy with the results. I can't run the system on high full-time because the cab will get too cold. I get a 45-50 degree drop from ambient when the outside temps are over 100.

Also replace your receiver/dryer and flush the evaporator and all the lines.

You should be able to get parallel flow condensers with inlet and outlets on either end. They won't just drop in you'll have to make up brackets to mount em.

Honestly, as long as it's not contaminated by black death, the original condenser is so big it's not necessary to get a parallel flow unit. Flush the old oil and crud out of all the hard lines, Evaporator, and condenser. Then replace the dryer/accumulator.

Too bad the A6 rebuilds are of such poor quality. It's such a huge compressor so it'll will freeze you right out of the cabin even on R134a.

One thing to keep in mind about replacement compressors is the oil it ships with will be of unknown pedigree and contaminated with water. I always dump it out and re-fill with fresh clean oil from an unopened container just before I close the system up and vac it down or sweep with MIG or TIG welding gas.

[DieselSJ]

Originally Posted by hatzie

You should be able to get parallel flow condensers with inlet and outlets on either end. They won't just drop in you'll have to make up brackets to mount em.

The one I linked to will drop in - it is a parallel flow design replacement.

Honestly, as long as it's not contaminated by black death, the original condenser is so big it's not necessary to get a parallel flow unit. Flush the old oil and crud out of all the hard lines, Evaporator, and condenser. Then replace the dryer/accumulator.

It is big, but those tube/fin units just aren't efficient enough.

One thing to keep in mind about replacement compressors is the oil it ships with will be of unknown pedigree and contaminated with water. I always dump it out and re-fill with fresh clean oil from an unopened container

Great advice

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by DieselSJ

It is big, but those tube/fin units just aren't efficient enough.

For a regular cab pickup they're many times overkill even using R134a.
Suburbans, Crew Cabs, and Blazers may be another story.

HFC152 & Hydrocarbon refrigerants will work very very well using the old tube and fin condenser with much lower head pressures than the R134a. I've used both.

If you have to replace the condenser then installing a parallel flow unit is just fine.

Whatever replacement refrigerant you run you can't just charge it by weight the first time. I've posted the JungleEddy method to charge with your favorite without overcharging the system. If you use a scale to weigh how much it takes to properly fill the system you can write the charge weight down to make subsequent re-charges easier.

I tend to lean toward Ester oil for retrofit refrigerant charges because, unlike PAG, it'll put up with any mineral oil you can't get flushed out of the system.

[tucsonjwt]

DieselSJ: Which H6 compressor did you use? It looks to me like the mounting, hose attachments, etc. are different than the A6. Is is a direct fit with no modifications required? Do you have a link to the one you used?

[DieselSJ]

Originally Posted by tucsonjwt

DieselSJ: Which H6 compressor did you use? It looks to me like the mounting, hose attachments, etc. are different than the A6. Is is a direct fit with no modifications required? Do you have a link to the one you used?

http://www.autozone.com/cooling-heat...13#tab-reviews

[tucsonjwt]

Thanks for the link. Did it require mods? Autozone shows "does not fit your 1983 C20."

[Cadillac Kid]

Originally Posted by hatzie

You should be able to get parallel flow condensers with inlet and outlets on either end. They won't just drop in you'll have to make up brackets to mount em.

Been looking for a parallel flow condenser with the inlet and outlet on different sides for my 1974 c10. I know I'll have to fab up some brackets, but I can't find one that ha the inlet and outlet on ether end. I guess once its time to get reinstate the a/c i'll ether use the original, or get the one like in the link and have a a/c shop add a line to re route on the the ports on the condenser to the other side of the core support.

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by Cadillac Kid

Been looking for a parallel flow condenser with the inlet and outlet on different sides for my 1974 c10. I know I'll have to fab up some brackets, but I can't find one that ha the inlet and outlet on ether end. I guess once its time to get reinstate the a/c i'll ether use the original, or get the one like in the link and have a a/c shop add a line to re route on the the ports on the condenser to the other side of the core support.

Route a hard line over the top or under the bottom. Clamp it to your brackets with nitrile covered P-Clamps so the additional hard line and the condenser become a solid unit. This minimizes vibration load on the fitting and tube at the condenser outlet/inlet.

[tucsonjwt]

The A/C shop I took my 83 C20 to (see above) said that AC Delco 15-6960 will be a direct fit on my truck. He has an 84 BB. I have no personal experience with this one.

Some customers seem unhappy with it:


https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-15-69.../dp/B000C9DGMI