55.2-59 My 56 build

[whitedog76]

Originally Posted by dsraven

I have done something similar on a 57 frame in the past. there is still 3" of frame left above the notch. thinking back, if I was going to do it again, I would lop off the frame ahead of the axle and fab a whole new rear section. boxing the frame ahead of the notch as well. actually, if I were to do it again, I would do what you have done and start over with new rectangular tubing. most guys cut cross members and fab new stuff here and there anyway so, why not. I have often thought, while checking some builds, that by the time guys cut the front end off and weld in a different front clip from some other old car, then cut the rear off to install an aftermarket or home made c notch, then boxed the rest of the frame, the only part of the frame they actually re-used is the center section under the cab. they might as well have spent the time on building a frame jig and built their own. that way the old car front clip could be properly installed to a frame made the correct width and height to match the "new" clip and the rear section could be made to match the suspension and frame width required back there.
just my thoughts though.

When I was trimming my frame rails for the MII crossmember, I was thinking, "Boy, some smooth frame rails would be nice..."

For the reasons you just stated, is why I've never thought the chassis swaps with late model trucks were viable. By the by the time the chassis is lengthened or shortened, chopped and C notched, crossmembers added or removed, not to mention what it takes to mount the body to the frame...

Anyhow... starting with a chassis made for your truck seems to be a whole lot better option. Even starting with some 2x6 tubing and doing yourself seems to be a much better alternative.

OK, I'm off my high horse now.

Chris

[dsraven]

haha, I'm still ridin.
just got a mental image of some cowboy riding the fenceline, sunset behind, old dog running next....
I gotta get more sleep, lol.

[Jason 56]

Thanks for the help n links guys. Upon further review and some research I came to the conclusion that my front cross member won’t work. I had the cross member level when I started welded it in, but it must of pulled due to heating. It ended up tilted forward high like the upper mounts. My research tells me this will negate much of my anti dive. Amazing how looking at something else you can find an error made previously. I also saw that my rack mounts were too low and would likely of had a bump steer problem. So I’m back to the beginning again. Now that the front end is off again, I’m resetting the front end for the new rake and rear end. Why not! I’m going to set the front lower cross member parallel to the frame instead of level. The couple of degrees raked like the frame should help anti dive. At least that’s what my research tells me

[dsraven]

when re-installing use the shafts for the lower control arms, slid into their sleeves in the crossmember, for the level. rather than using the top or bottom of the crossmembr. it will be more accurate. a digital level is also best rather than a bubble level. tack weld it in, then recheck. hen all good use short qelds and allow to cool between welding.

[Jason 56]

After looking through lots of other builds I realize that it’s thread should be in the build forum. Anyone know how to move it there?

[Jason 56]

Have the lower cross member back in place. Just tacked in for now. Thanks Dennis for the suggestions on the leveling. I also went out n bought a digital level. Got the rack n pinion back in today after cutting c-notches. Also began the bodywork with patches in the cowl and fixing the hole someone cut in the dash. I went under the dash, welded the cowl and firewall together so I could remove the lip on the firewall. I’ve decided to go with a LS now that I have the other engine cut out again. Anyone know if I’m going to have to make the firewall notch any larger

[dsraven]

you may have interference on the drivers side due to the injection rails. if the engine is moved forward you may decrease the dimension between the water pump snout and the rad to the point where a more spendy and less available electric fan will be required. do a little homework on that fan costing and availability. the other thing is the oil pan set up. I used one from a 2002 camaro because it is quite a bit shallower then the truck pan I had it came as a kit with the baffle, pump pick up tube,dipstick and tube and a gasket. I also used the camaro exhaust manifolds which should fit nicely between your frame rails with the boxing plates installed. that way if you want to use headers later it may be easier to find a set that fit. ensure you will have enough room for the steering column shaft to connect to the rack without hitting a manifold or being placed at some odd angle for the column u joints. for mounts, again, I used camaro mounts of the same vintage that bolt to the engine with urethane guts in them, got the engine sitting where I wanted it so there is room above the steering rack for the pulley and belts etc, levelled it side to side and got it at the correct down at the rear angle. then blocked it there and simply fabbed up some brackets to connect the mounts to the frame. mine was fabbed so the plates unbolted from the frame for ease of engine removal/install in the future. on the l/h side where the steering shaft goes I made the plates for the engine mounts in such a way that the steering column went below one plate and above the other plate. if you end up recessing the firewall for engine clearance don't be shy, make enough room the first time. just remember to make sure you have a comfortable angle and access for the accel pedal on the inside. the other stuff isn't as critical. I made mine 4" deep. you can go high just remember to factor in room for the wiper motor and linkages. I replaced the whole width with 16ga steel that I had a shop bend to the right angles. if you do this remember to make a template for the hood hinge mounts and also roughly where the holes are for the column and brake pedals (if using the under the floor master cylinder).
hope something in there will help
have fun, post pics