70 gmc DIY build

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Ben IV

Thanks. I don't know if it's car show nice but I'd love to go to c10's in the park or LST some day.

Thanks just trying to build a fun driver.

I've never owned "car show nice" rides. They've always been fun/cool drivers. The Patina trend just helps up the status. Once the trend ends, I'll still be building budget drivers that peers will turn their necks for. The only one I ever planned to paint (& attempt to make really nice) is my RetroRod. It was perfect patina back in the late 80's until it was stolen & hacked up. It will get decent paint.

[Ben IV]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I've never owned "car show nice" rides. They've always been fun/cool drivers. The Patina trend just helps up the status. Once the trend ends, I'll still be building budget drivers that peers will turn their necks for. The only one I ever planned to paint (& attempt to make really nice) is my RetroRod. It was perfect patina back in the late 80's until it was stolen & hacked up. It will get decent paint.

Nice to not have to worry about a little scratch or chip. But some people are taking patina too far kinda like they did with the "rat rod" craze.

[Ben IV]

First stage complete and ready to move on to the frame. Broke the bed back down since I'm working in a 2 car garage and need space.

[Ben IV]

Frame was next. I know people typically cut the frame on these trucks under the cab but I didn't feel like lifting up the cab and trying to work under it. And taking the cab off was too much work. So I decided to make my cuts behind the cab and move the crossmember forward. Being a leaf truck made this easy but wouldn't be too bad on a coil truck either. You have to remove 8 rivets to get the crossmember out (12 on a coil truck) 2 of which have to come out anyway to remove the front bed mount. With this method you don't have to move the cab mounts forward requiring removing 8 rivets and drilling 8 holes. I chose to just weld the crossmember back in instead of bolting it, easier and stronger. Laying out your cut lines is simple. Just pick any spot make a mark then make another exactly 12" from your first mark. Then make the other side match. So long as you're taking exactly 12" from each side things will line right back up. Back of the frame is easy. Mark and drill the rear bed mount bolt hole up exactly 8" then cut 8" of off measured off the end of the frame. Next post I'll get into prep welding and fish plates.