Updated Classic Gauges

[truckster]

I wanted to update my gauges so I would have a voltmeter and an electrical oil pressure gauge, and I thought it might be good to document it here for anyone else who might want to do the same.

Here is my gauge cluster front and back as it came out of the truck.

[truckster]

I began by disassembling the cluster and cleaning it up gently. I used Dawn and warm water to avoid damaging anything.

[truckster]

As you can see in this picture, there are two backing plates for the smaller gauges. I re-used the one that housed the amp gauge, but I used one from a second cluster for the oil pressure gauge. The stock oil pressure gauge is mechanical, and it's in the way of the electrical gauge. If you don't have a second backing plate, you can use a piece of sheet metal. This part won't be seen once the cluster is assembled.

[truckster]

The gauges I used came out of an 84 squarebody truck. There weren't any in the two wrecking yards I visited, so I bought them on ebay.

I first mounted them in the holes the original gauges were mounted in, but they were too low when I put the cluster face over them. I ended up drilling new holes approximately 1/4" higher than the original holes, which seemed to put them at the right height. I used sheet metal shears to trim around the gauges so that everything would fit together.

[truckster]

Here you can see the original holes below the position of the gauges.

Next was wiring them up. It's really important to make sure the two main posts on each gauge are insulated. They have a plastic base that's about 3/16" diameter, and if you get them centered in the holes you should have no problem. The third post on each is a ground.

I this picture, the orange wire goes to the voltage gauge wire on my new wiring harness. The blue wire goes to the oil pressure wire, and the orange jumper supplies 12v to the oil pressure gauge. Thanks to Ray McAvoy for the wiring help.

[truckster]

And here's the finished product. I think it turned out pretty well and the gauges look like they belong there.

I hope to get the truck started this week. I'll post up as to how they work when I do.

[VetteVet]

Nice work. Thank you for the feedback.

[truckster]

Originally Posted by VetteVet

Nice work. Thank you for the feedback.

Thank you. I've used your wiring diagrams a ton on my Blazer.

[Sweeet67]

Hey Truckster,
Where did you get the wood grain bezel? Are you happy with it?

[truckster]

Originally Posted by Sweeet67

Hey Truckster,
Where did you get the wood grain bezel? Are you happy with it?

I got it from LMC - item 38-8029, $85.40 with shipping. It looks nice, but time will tell. The woodgrain is slightly raised around the openings, and I'm afraid it may peel with time, especially when it's exposed to the sun in the summertime.

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by truckster

And here's the finished product. I think it turned out pretty well and the gauges look like they belong there.

I hope to get the truck started this week. I'll post up as to how they work when I do.

Nice job looks good. Where did you get the woodgrain bezel?

[truckster]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

Nice job looks good. Where did you get the woodgrain bezel?

I got it from LMC - item 38-8029, $85.40 with shipping.

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by truckster

I got it from LMC - item 38-8029, $85.40 with shipping.

Thanks! I've never used them before. I heard a lot of horror stories. I guess I'll give them a chance.

[notsolo]

Thanks for posting, that's a nice upgrade. I will copy when I get time.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

Thanks! I've never used them before. I heard a lot of horror stories. I guess I'll give them a chance.

There isn't a vendor around that hasn't gotten tarred by a buyer. Since they all get tarred, they're pretty much equal, I think. One just has to be careful. I've bought a bunch of stuff from LMC with good results, except for the custom steering wheel with wood that cracked just outside of the warranty. I'll probably end up making my own wood pieces, as I have the material and the equipment to do that.

[Andy4639]

The cluster looks good sir.

I want to make a suggestion though before you install it. The speedometer needle needs to be set right are it will not read correct once installed and driving. It's to low. It should be placed where it sits right @ 0 when not running. The gas hand also if it was taken off needs to be set. Not sure if you did take it off but if you did it would need to be set back accordingly.
Just trying to save you from taking it out again.

[truckster]

Thanks. I didn't take any of the needles off, but I'll take a look at it.

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by truckster

Thanks. I didn't take any of the needles off, but I'll take a look at it.

The speedometer needle is off for sure. It should read 0 are just a tad below it are above it. Pictures for reference.
If you will notice the gas gauge is on the bottom side of the gauge. I took the needles off to paint them. I had only the gauge in my hand when I reinstalled it the first time. Lol It took me a bit to figure out what I did wrong, I had the gauge upside down in my hand!

[truckster]

I finally got the truck running today. The new gauges work great.

[MikeB]

What did you use for light bulbs?

On another note, the fuel gauge pointer "floats" when its terminals are not connected to 12 volts, fuel sender, and ground. So the pointer should NOT be set to zero when the electrical terminals are disconnected.

Same is true of the coolant temp pointer.