Re-wired entire truck - now it won’t start :(

[jwendell413]

Fellow board

I just re-wired my 72 c10 with the Painless #10206 and just tried starting it up for the first time and it wouldn’t start . There were a LOT of extra wires and cutoff/dead lines etc. that I cleaned up so must’ve done something different or wrong.

It turns over and tries to start. Cranks loud and long, but nothing, no matter how much I slam the gas pedal.

I had removed the fuel tank and replaced the sending unit and “think” I hooked all lines back up correctly so that should be okay.

The 70amp fuse had said to route to the solenoid but I couldn’t reach it so I just routed back to the positive battery - I think that should still be fine?

Battery has been on a charger this whole time so should be fine.

Truck didn’t have a NSS so I installed one. When in R, it didn’t engage at all, put it back in P and it cranked like expected. So I think that’s all in correctly?

I did several ground cables between engine chassis and frame.

A few things I’m not 100% about. A single pink wire that connects to the drivers side of the distributor cap. I can’t get an angle to see the terminal connection for sure. If it’s lose or not in correctly, would that cause this problem? The electric choke red wire to the carb wasn’t even connected before I did the re-wiring. In the kit there’s a red wire designated so I terminated it to the blade on the passenger side of the carb.

I tried pouring a little gas straight into the carb too in case it was a fuel line issue but that didn’t help.

Thank you for any thoughts or troubleshooting you’re able to provide.

I can provide any pictures of current wiring if needed too.
John
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[jwendell413]

Fuel line hookups for reference.

Someone mentioned I may have done it wrong?

I don’t know if I’m on the wrong port or supposed to cap it off.

Any concern with the placement of the filter?
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[geezer#99]

Have you had the distributor out lately?
We assume it ran before the rewire,

[Mnguy]

Step one would be to check for spark. Let's assume there isn't any since you poured gas down the carb and it still didn't start. Are you running the original points distributor or hei?

[dagnabbitt]

It is probably just spark like has been mentioned but that fuel line is puzzling, do you have it drawing out of the top of the tank?

[jwendell413]

I haven't had the distributor out at all. The truck started up/ran fine before I performed the re-wiring

[jwendell413]

I believe it's just a points distributor. I don't know much of the difference visually/performance, but attached it for reference. The pink wire (labeled as Engine Coil B+) is routed to the distributor cap.

So, I just went and compared the location of where I have that wire, to a picture I took of the original wiring before I ripped it all off....and it doesn't look like i have it in the same/right place. Originally there was an extra green and yellow, but I believe that's because they were leftover from the externally regulated alternator - the one in it now is internally regulated so they were dud wires.

But, even if it's just changing the pre-existing red, for the new pink...I don't think i have it terminated to the correct spot. so I'll check that today.

also added the electric choke wiring, since it wasn't properly hooked up before (but still ran and the throttle responded...so i don't understand that.

[jwendell413]

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[jwendell413]

Move the distributor cap wire to the other blade and it fired right up!
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[MARKDTN]

When you say you rewired the whole truck, was that ignition too? I would want to get rid of any bare/twisted together wires. For an HEI you need a good 12V source for power. The factory harness has a resistance wire between the firewall and coil. It needs to be replaced with a non-resistance wire (which looks like has been done). So you need 12V to the coil from the ignition switch when you want it to run. I would not run the choke wire piggybacked to the coil wire, put it on a separate circuit so that the coil has it's own dedicated wire from the ign switch. Also just FYI, but do not skimp on grounds. Good clean proper grounds make all the difference in a proper electrical system IMHO. Glad you got it running again.

[Steeveedee]

Yup, you originally hooked the ignition power to the tach terminal. You have an HEI, btw.

[fun in dirt]

Originally Posted by jwendell413

Move the distributor cap wire to the other blade and it fired right up!
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Glad you got it going! It IS very hard to see that little B or T on those covers.

[pjmoreland]

The stock HEI battery power connector (white) is keyed so it can't be plugged into the tachometer terminal (brown connector) on the distributor.

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