Removing Heater Control knobs?

[custom10nut]

Please tell me that there’s a safe way to separate the knob from the lever on my heater control.
I finally got around to changing out my old control unit, with another unit that I picked up at a Swap Meet.
I was careful with removal disassembly/reassembly and reinstall.
The first time I moved the levers, the middle knob for the fan control broke off in my fingers.
I figured out hot to disassemble the old one without breaking anything, but don’t want to break the knobs off to get the lever out of face.
Are there any solutions to this or did I just waste my money and Ave to buy another one?

[toolboxchev]

Snap them all off.

Get a Never Popped Kit! The control arms are made of stamped steel, they wont break. about 40 bucks!

Dont look back!

There 3 easy steps.....

[Accelo]

I have had good luck grabbing them with a small pair of vice grips. Grab them on the R & L sides not up and down. Any marks made by the grips are hidden in the factory serrations. Then rocking it back and forth. Typically they come off with out damaging the lever. If the broken one can be pulled from the face grab the stem of the lever with the vice grips. Put the vise grips in a vice and use two screwdrivers to pry off the knob using the grips as the pry point. If it captive you can break it off at the stem and then remove the left over stem using the screwdriver method.

If you have to purchase a new lever I would get replacement knobs. Be warned they are plastic and originals are metal.

Likely your cables are in need of lubrication and/or the doors are stiff. Confirm they work easily before reassembling the controls.
Cheers

[custom10nut]

Originally Posted by Accelo

I have had good luck grabbing them with a small pair of vice grips. Grab them on the R & L sides not up and down. Any marks made by the grips are hidden in the factory serrations. Then rocking it back and forth. Typically they come off with out damaging the lever. If the broken one can be pulled from the face grab the stem of the lever with the vice grips. Put the vise grips in a vice and use two screwdrivers to pry off the knob using the grips as the pry point. If it captive you can break it off at the stem and then remove the left over stem using the screwdriver method.

If you have to purchase a new lever I would get replacement knobs. Be warned they are plastic and originals are metal.

Likely your cables are in need of lubrication and/or the doors are stiff. Confirm they work easily before reassembling the controls.
Cheers

Yes, I figured out too late that the cables ne to be lubed.
Do you have any suggestions on how to lube them up?
I have all three of the knobs on the old control to get it right. If not I guess I’m buyin replacements

[Accelo]

"Taking the cables out and soaking them, in oil, is the only 100% sure method to lube them." Then you still have 50 year old doors to work with.
I haven't had to resort to that radical of a repair. Been able to get them working using penetrating oil or speedometer cable lube.
If the cables are real stiff it's difficult to tell if it's the cable or door. Sometimes you will be able to disconnect them at the actuator to better identify which is the culprit. Don't bend the internal wire or you will have to replace them. They will never be the same.

The trucks without AIR are easier to deal with as the cables are a lot easier to access.
If your truck is very rusty consider replacing the cables. They are not very expensive.
Cheers.

[custom10nut]

Originally Posted by Accelo

"Taking the cables out and soaking them, in oil, is the only 100% sure method to lube them." Then you still have 50 year old doors to work with.
I haven't had to resort to that radical of a repair. Been able to get them working using penetrating oil or speedometer cable lube.
If the cables are real stiff it's difficult to tell if it's the cable or door. Sometimes you will be able to disconnect them at the actuator to better identify which is the culprit. Don't bend the internal wire or you will have to replace them. They will never be the same.

The trucks without AIR are easier to deal with as the cables are a lot easier to access.
If your truck is very rusty consider replacing the cables. They are not very expensive.
Cheers.

Thanks for the insight.
They move but bind a little, and trying to get it to “work better”, I broke the knob
I think it’s a combination of 50 years of dust and grime build up.
I’m gonna tear it all apart and clean/lube it up.

[Peanut74]

Here is a link on how to rebuild the heater control. Sounds like you are past this part but I thought it might be helpful to you.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=827548

[67C10Step]

I just got done rebuilding my non-AC heater system and will say pulling the cables and soaking them is probably the best, along with exercising them and putting them back in the oil bath.

Also, an item I have from my motorcycle days that I have used on other cables. This one is from Motion Pro.

[purple gas]

Brothers has a YouTube video of taking apart and re-assembling the heater controls.
It's definitely worth the 20 minutes to watch.

[custom10nut]

Originally Posted by purple gas

Brothers has a YouTube video of taking apart and re-assembling the heater controls.
It's definitely worth the 20 minutes to watch.

Yes, I found that!
I haven’t watched it all yet, but I will before I delve into complete disassembly.

[custom10nut]

I have achieved SUCCESS!
I tried the wiggling “back and forth”, as Accelo suggested, and was able to get the knob off the good lever that I have!
Now I just need to disassemble, replace the broken one, and then put it all back together.
I still have to get the cables out to clean/lube them.

Is there a way to lube the Fan Control? At the controller.
I’ve determined the binding is happening not in the cable, but in the troller itself
Any insight is welcomed

[Peanut74]

Post #7
The link will show you the controller broken down. You will be able to see where to lube it.

[custom10nut]

This is great info.
All this has not only helped me, but I hope it helps others.
I have everything lubed up and put back together, but have come to the conclusion that I have to clean and lube the Heater Box Door, and that’s going to entail a little work.
That’s gonna be the next “Rainy Day” project.

[Tucker52]

For less than $30 you can get new heater control cables at Chevy Truck Classic Parts;

https://www.classicparts.com/1967-72...ctinfo/68-727/

And heater control rebuild kit for less than $30.

https://www.classicparts.com/1969-72...ctinfo/68-476/