What in the world would cause an Alternator wire to be missing?

[gferris5]

Just questioning my own sanity here...

I was getting some weird charging behavior in my truck. It had sat for a month or so while I redid the interior and so when I went to start it, it cranked super slow and was hard to re-start once warm.

Checked the voltage at the battery and it was 11.9, and then when running, about 12 volts. Battery came back "bad" from the O'Reilly check, and that's fine. But, the alternator passed its test just fine!

So I started looking around at the wiring, changed the voltage regulator, re-sanded grounds and tightened terminals and then I looked more closely at the wires going to the back of the alternator and lo and behold...


The white wire that excites the alternator looks like it's been cut off somehow? I for the life of me don't remember cutting it, but I can't imagine what would have cut it. The weird thing is that if the wire had just broken, the little clip should still be there. Super weird right?

Can anyone think what might have caused this? Am I right in thinking that's exactly why my alternator does not charge?

Anyway, this is basically a sh*tpost, so sorry to spam the board, but in case people need some help diagnosing things, just a reminder to always check the basics. I'm thinking now time to upgrade to an internally regulated alternator anyway...

[72SB]

Rats???

IMHO fix the wire and keep the VR. I prefer a solid state VR though Tuff Stuff

[gferris5]

Thanks for responding to my strange post... Rats is an interesting idea, I haven't seen any droppings or anything around, but never know. Honestly either I saw it and cut it not knowing what it was, or somebody out there wanted my alternator to stop charging, I may have some enemies! lol.

Good idea about the solid state VR -- thought about it, but I run dual electric fans and am going to put in a stereo with an amp, so I think I need more than the 60amps... But thanks much for the suggestion; I'll look into it a bit.

[72SB]

Well amps, stereo and EL Fans you will need a 100 at least. Get a 130. EL fans can be 30 amps each. Likely not fond a 3 wire Alt 130 amp.

I actually have a 1 wire, don't know amps, on the C10. PO did a fairly hack wire set up for it so I was going to go back to 3 wire using a spare one I have. I will just pull the original VR and get a Tuff Stuff one

IMHO the external works a little better at idle but less of a problem if you have done the headlight relay mod.

If HEI or Pertronix Dizzy definitely use a solid-state VR. IIRC Autozone brand also has a solid state one (likely offshore) but I have the Tuff Stuff one (made in USA) on my 67 Camaro. IIRC it was $13 on Amazon when I got it

[body bolt]

I agree. Rodents.

['68OrangeSunshine]

We got packrats here in AZ. They just love to chew on wiring.
I heard a sugary color laced emulsion, similar to M&Ms candy coating is used to color code wiring.
The old school petrochemical dyes are not environmentally correct.
Asian cars have it much worse. Hondas especially had such a problem, that they sell ''Rodent Tape.'' Just like a regular roll of 3M E tape, but it has a printed rat picture with a X over it, every 6''. And it's laced with Capsicum. It's only $60 a roll.

[Bigdav160]

but I run dual electric fans and am going to put in a stereo with an amp, so I think I need more than the 60amps..

That output wire doesn't appear to be big enough to handle the load