Brake pedal shaft cut and welded

[K10-Kansas]

Any guesses on why this (maybe it's named a brake pedal shaft), is cut and welded? I don't mean why did the pervious owner do it, but in general, what could be possible reasons anyone would?

[68 C10 Driver]

Looks like the PO was making an adjustable brake rod, maybe because of a different brake master cylinder being used?

[kwmech]

Probably to bring the brake pedal height up to match the clutch pedal

[LS short box]

Man that looks shaky to me. I'm no welding expert but those welds don't look good.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by LS short box

Man that looks shaky to me. I'm no welding expert but those welds don't look good.

Indeed! I wouldn't trust that unless I could stand on the pedal with both feet and the rod doesn't fail.

[K10-Kansas]

I bought a break pedal pushrod from a junk dealer and assumed it would be an OEM size. It came out of a 67-72 C10 and it has a 7/16-20 female end to attach to the booster pushrod which is a male 3/8-16. SO my booster is probably not made for the OEM break pushrod. I bet a few decades ago the PO replaced the booster with the wrong part and welded the pushrod since it was the wrong size. Then the mechanic that put in the new booster just replaced it with the same thing that would fit to the welded pushrod.

I've looked at lowes, McMaster-Carr, Amazon, Paragon Performance, and Summit Racing and can't fid an adapter that has a 3/8-16 female hex with a 7/16-20 thread.

Should I just try to pull and replace the booster pushrod from inside the booster?

[Chevy nutcase]

I recently bought a booster master cylinder prop valve setup from summit for my 66 c10, yeah I know this is the 67-72 page but it applies lol. They sent a nice new shiny brake rod with the kit which was a clevis type that was about 2" too short. My impatience made me do something similar. I cut both and welded them together using the original to connect to the brake lever and half the new one to poke the booster. I did mine a little neater. The old one was beefier at about 5/8" diameter so after cutting it it I drilled out a recess for the newer skinny shaft to seat in because it was about 3/8" diameter then welded the two. Wish I'd have taken pictures but I have no worries about it

[K10-Kansas]

Originally Posted by Chevy nutcase

I recently bought a booster master cylinder prop valve setup from summit for my 66 c10, yeah I know this is the 67-72 page but it applies lol. They sent a nice new shiny brake rod with the kit which was a clevis type that was about 2" too short. My impatience made me do something similar. I cut both and welded them together using the original to connect to the brake lever and half the new one to poke the booster. I did mine a little neater. The old one was beefier at about 5/8" diameter so after cutting it it I drilled out a recess for the newer skinny shaft to seat in because it was about 3/8" diameter then welded the two. Wish I'd have taken pictures but I have no worries about it

Yeah I'm tempted to just leave this ugly welded one on there since I cant easily replace it. It is strong. Just really trashy looking.

[Chevy nutcase]

Originally Posted by K10-Kansas

Yeah I'm tempted to just leave this ugly welded one on there since I cant easily replace it. It is strong. Just really trashy looking.

Nobody can see it under there lol but I know what you mean. You know it looks horrible and you will think of it at every red light

[LockDoc]

-
How long is that shaft overall?

LockDoc
.

[K10-Kansas]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

-
How long is that shaft overall?

LockDoc
.

Its just under 6 inches if I remember right.

[K10-Kansas]

Originally Posted by Chevy nutcase

Nobody can see it under there lol but I know what you mean. You know it looks horrible and you will think of it at every red light

Yeah, lol, it just looks questionable.