A/C switch connector oddity

[howzzzit]

I replaced my air conditioning blower switch as the old one did nothing. When I took the old one apart it looked like old grease inside. Well anyway after replacing the switch it did nothing at first. I reached up and pushed on the wires and it worked. Obviously a fubar plug and I will replace it. My question is when the circuit to the switch cuts out I have no radio or turn signals. Normal? Also, when the turn signals do work the left is normal speed and the right is half speed and not as bright. It's a new wiring harness , also. I saved the old harness so I can use for test purposes. Probably better than the LMC.
Thanks

[dmjlambert]

Not normal. I suggest make sure your fuses are fully seated and the wires and terminals at the back of the plugs are fully seated and clicked into the connectors. It is possible at the back of the ignition switch for the 12 ga brown wire to not be clicked into the connector all the way, and it would make a bad connection to the ignition switch. That's close to the fan speed switch.

[howzzzit]

DJ thanks I'll check the wire. Wouldn't it seem to be the fan switch connector as I can push on the terminals and things will work for a time or two? I'm not an electrical genius, but is the fan switch in line with the radio and turn signal power? Neither one works when the switch doesn't function. All factory stock wiring.

[Rust_never_sleeps]

radio comes off the cigar lighter post in the fuse box, so IIUC(and usually I don't) it wouldn't have any circuitry in common unless it's upstream of the box

[dmjlambert]

Rust_never_sleeps is right, no circuitry in common at the fan switch. The ignition switch is what the radio, turn signals, and fan have in common. I think it is likely when you push on the terminals of the fan switch you are actually disturbing the terminals of the ignition switch, which is right next to the fan switch. In particular, the 12 ga brown wire which provides accessory power from the ignition switch to radio, fan, turn signals, etc. So, check that the brown wire terminal in the ignition switch plastic connector is fully seated and in good condition. In 67 and possibly early 68 if you have no 12 ga brown wire, it is the 12 ga pink wire that provides power to accessories. Most of 68 through 72 use the 12 ga brown wire.

A stock radio would normally be connected to the Radio position of the fuse box, but somebody could move the plug-in connector from Radio to CIG if they want the radio to operate without the ignition switch turned on, because CIG is always hot.

[howzzzit]

Thanks. I gave the switch plug a good push as well as the brown wire on the switch. All started working. You're probably right about moving the brown on the ignition switch. I'll check that. The slow blinker issue on the right rear was a ground issue. Ran the 5/16 mounting screws in and out a couple of times. Good to go.
Thanks again DJ.

and the radio is on the radio tab in the fuse box.

[Rust_never_sleeps]

Originally Posted by howzzzit

the radio is on the radio tab in the fuse box.

yeah I shoulda known not to be that specific with a different model year ;-)

[Rust_never_sleeps]

...actumally, mine comes off the radio lead too. About 2" of pink(not purple) wire from that post, then a connector to the red one that runs to the unit.

['68OrangeSunshine]

I had an aftermarket installer [c. 1978] steal the power for a new Cassette/AM/FM from the feed for the Heater control bulb. Wasnt til 2005, when cleaning up the underdash wiring while 'down' -- waiting to re-engine -- that I found it and restored the heater illumination. By that time that radio was dead, and I went Radio Delete.
But back in the wild old days, some guys did a lot of wierd things with the stock wiring.

[howzzzit]

OK took ignition switch apart. Terminals in the switch look pretty good. You know that 50 years old look. No corrosion on the brown terminal. Nothing melted or burnt. Same with with wiring harness. I can freshen up the switch terminals. Any suggestions for cleaning the wiring harness terminals? I think I have a small flat file somewhere. Any spray chemical that won't destroy the plastic? Any other tips?
Thanks

[dmjlambert]

DeoxIT D5 and WD-40 are both good for that use and won't deteriorate plastic. Deoxit D5 can be purchased online and at Guitar Center.

[howzzzit]

Pretty good video showing removal and repair of ignition switch.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QyfaI5YIB2M

['68OrangeSunshine]

I used to use ''Blue Shower'' electronic spray, 20 or 30 years ago, then somebody poked a hole in the Ozone Layer, and I haven't seen it in a long time.

[howzzzit]

I remember blue shower. We used it on the old mechanical tv tuners. Also tuner tonic. Blue shower then and all the government gives you now is a golden shower.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by howzzzit

I remember blue shower. We used it on the old mechanical tv tuners. Also tuner tonic. Blue shower then and all the government gives you now is a golden shower.

Good one. That's been going on since Reaganomics: Trickle Down Economy.

[howzzzit]

Well, cleaned up all the terminals. Paid special attention to the brown. It was fully seated in the plug end and tight in the switch end. I slightly bent the switch and plug brown terminals thinking when I slid it back together it might force a better contact. Sprayed everything with CRC electrical cleaner and reassembled. Put it back together and everything works. Time will tell. Thanks for the help. Just remembered I forgot to reattach up the bottom duct work.