72 Cab repair...Summer Project

[RPOZ11]

Ok, it's time for the DREADED Cab fix on my 72. This is going to be a summer long project so please check back in with this post on weekely basis's. What you will see is images of before, during and after the Cab swap fix.
Here you will see the rust damage that is present that will prevent me from keeping this cab....

[Robert1970C20rstbukt]

I'll also be posting some pics of my cab tomorrow. I have the same problem as RPOZ11, but worse. I'm also going to be repairing mine over the summer, and will post pics of my "progress".

[RPOZ11]

Let me propose this to all: I invited Robert, a fellow board member, to be a partner in this as we both are about to do the same repairs. Im unsure how beneficial this will be to all, but, like many of us, at one time or another, to just have the referencing and archiving available, eventually more than the two of will have a need to use this.
My truck will be the 1972 Cheyenne Super C/30 Longhorn. This truck is almost 100% complete as delivered to the dealership out here at Jones Chevrolet in Whitier, California. I believe it was assembled at the Fremont plant according to the "Z" code in the VIN. The truck was a customer ordered truck with almost 100% all options checked. I found it rather odd that it was a C/30 when I found it, as I have been informed, about 2500 only were made in 1972 and I guess that can be broken down into color choices, and combinations that were made.
Anyways, What I will be doing first is to take several shots of my truck, and a couple shots of the donor truck that will be used in the cab swap. Now, My Longhorn is a 402 truck, so the cab will be a BB cab. The donor truck is a 72 BB 402 C/20, so at least most of my troubles are removed from the get go.
I will first begin to remove the front clip to a pointe that I need without taking it too far apart! I dont need more work than I can handle. I think once I get the cab removed and stripped, I will either have it media blasted, or chemical stripped for the repairs that will need to be done to the donor cab. The fixes on this cab will be: Under support brackets, outer rockers( we'll see how the inners are once the original outers are off), and maybe a spot on the drivers floor in the lower corner under the fuse panel where the lower vent is by the driver's foot.
I will now ask Robert to add with what he feels is necessary in relations to his Truck....

[Robert1970C20rstbukt]

I know, I could get another cab but I can't get any good ones near my town and I can't go far to pick one up, so screw it. Might as well see how good of a welder I am.

These are the parts I'll start with:

rockers (i'd say 40% of 'em are still there )
floor supports (fronts are almost gone, rear ones have rust holes)
floorboards (not bad, outer 1.5-2" on each side of the cab are rusty)
left cab corner (got a 3" diameter rust hole in it )


When I get those squared off, I'll start on the roof and areas 'round the door. Shouldn't be too much trouble to fix the cab once I get the welder working again. I have an oxy/propane torch setup that's in the back of my truck right now so I'm all ready to cut, but not weld. The welder I'm gonna use is freakin huge. It's around a 1940's-50's Lincoln with an all cast iron straight six Hercules military engine, with a generator that's as big around as a 16" rim, and around 3ft long. Try putting that monster in a pickup bed!

[RPOZ11]

Here is the truck I will begin disassembling for the cab swap...Disassembly begins 7-13-2004... At one pointe after all of this is done, This C/20 will be for sale; so if there is anyone interested who's willing to wait for it to be available, check back with me over the summer for the status of this truck.

[Robert1970C20rstbukt]

Whoa, that looks exactly like my truck! But in better shape.

[chevytruckfan]

Ok maybe its just me and I am not seeing the whole (no pun inteded) problem, but from the pics it looks like your cab is in real good condition. It looks to me like your creating more work for yourself by stripping everything down, swapping the cap, then painting a new cab to match, and unless it is completely perfect you will have to do body work anyway. Than to fix what you have by sanding down just the rust area maybe do a little body work in the rust areas and repaint. Just my idea though it is your truck to do with what you want, just trying to save you a bunch of work that dosent look like is needed.

[RPOZ11]

To answer that properly I must state again that I do have 2 1972 Trucks. The pic of the donor truck is for the following truck posted below in this reply. The initial pics I posted on page 1 in my first board post shows the damage to the original cab that my 2nd truck I purchased came with. The donor truck is a C/20 Custom Camper and the Truck to get the cab replaced is a C/30 Longhorn....

[RPOZ11]

this is the truck im repairing and keeping.

[RPOZ11]

Sorry for the difficult shots but I have 2 fences, a tree, and an 8-1/2 foot bed to fit into the image...

[RPOZ11]

The work Ill be doing to the donor cab will be: Inspecting and replacing the outer lower rockers on each side; A small repair at the cab's floor to the left of one's left foot when driving-a little sepration is present there but nothing a good weld wont fix; Ill also be replacing/repairing the under cab supports. This C/20 was originally from Missouri. A small bit of the road wear is present but not all that bad, but I do like to have my vehicle sound and as rust free as possible.
I will be basing the truck in the original White inside and out; Probably only painting the exterior below the roof Black, have the middle section White, and have the lower portion in Black. However, I may just keep it all White.
I will keep the interior as White with Black door panels, inside roof panel headliner, dash pad, A/C accessory plastics, as well as the bench seat-I would like to consider the houndstooth or even the plaid pattern for the cloth inserts there.

[RPOZ11]

It's rather sad to me to find that the rust/moisture got to this truck!
The original owner had this thing parked under some eaves in front of the garage door and when the rain and weather hit, the water fell right onto the roof and hood. In the pic images of this truck you can see exactly where the water damage hit it and thus began the slow death this truck has experienced.
At the roof area, if one looks closely, there is a slight rust pattern present at the rain gutter on top.
The water ate away at the factory sealer and over time, the sealer seperated and gave way and the continual weather got inside it!!

[chevytruckfan]

Ok that makes sense now. The one I saw in the earlier pics is the donor truck not the one needing repair.

[RPOZ11]

OK, here's how far I got today.
I wish to share this when doing these things:
Remember to always double check when taking something off. Like from where it came from, etc. I use Sandwich baggies and label the bag with an index card. Today, unlike the past years, I am able to use a digital camera to have for a backup and refernce when I reassemble it.
You'll also see that I choose to temporarilry replace certain nuts/bolts so I can keep them together with the places they were originally installed...sort of resto like in theory...

[RPOZ11]

slow progress but this is what I need without completely taking the WHOLE truck apart...

[RPOZ11]

Pass side

[RPOZ11]

Take careful care when unscrewing the A/C lines at there respective connected areas! The top upper large line was difficult to remove as it was rather tight but with slow and careful attention, one can get this off without damaging it!

[RPOZ11]

These units are VERY delicate; always take into consideration that the age of these make them brittle!
Add: Notice the factory Chalk Markings. I am leaning towards believeing that it might match my VIN #'s; But Ill need to go over that before I can determine this...There are different chalk numbers on the pass side vs. the driver's side!

[RPOZ11]

I am placing these forward from there original positions. This will make it easier to remember all of the original mounting points and hardware...
Add: I have always wondered why the Factory decided to use the Power Booster/Bracketry that makes this system hang in a downward angle? I always liked the level mounted 71 and back set-up better!
I also noticed that the factory used dumb-dumb behind the cowl/firewall panel-must be to prevent it from rusting away under icing conditions. I will reinstall this stuff but I think I'll do a better job of it than the factory did so it doesn't look so much like an eye sore.

[RPOZ11]

I will attempt more in the next 48 hours...check back then...

[RPOZ11]

I need to do this tomorrow: Parking Brake cable removal.
Has anyone done these and can they share their experinces and knowledge on how to save this thing. I am unsure if they are still available today as NOS....
I believe Robert here in our Board discussions on this shared what aftermarket items are available for the repairs. Im on the west coast; Is there anyone in my area who offers the GoodMark replacement rockers? Panels? Door Skins...Etc Etc...?

[zyggy72]

You can still get the 3/4 ton e-brake cables and some hardware from some of the venders here on the board.

[dwaite72lnghrn]

It almost seems a shame to distroy that nice c/20. I would have cut the roof off a junk and welded it on the top as it doesn't look like the pillars are gone then you could of had 2 trucks. but like they say it's your trucks. Brace the donor cab well being the rocker and floor is rusted other wise it will twist and be a heck of a mess. I would probable weld in all the new pieces before I took it off the frame, Then have it dipped and painted. jmho dave

[RPOZ11]

Well, on the C/20 Im using for the cab, it is a factory BB truck. This C/20 has had the original engine removed before I purchased it. However, all the BB brackets are there so it will still make a good truck to start with for someone in time.
The final result I am seeking is to keep the Longhorn with using the best parts I can use and this C/20's cab is a far better fix issue than the rust currently present in the cab of the Longhorn.
I do not wish to keep the C/20 after it is back together. I will swap the cabs after both worked on but I just feel that no matter hoiw far I go into the roof structure that that cab will be visually what I want. The rust is in such a location, UNFORTUNATELY , that I dont feel that we can get the correct curves replaced back into it and get a visually correct appearance.
That Rust is right into where the inner roof panel and the outer roof panel mate and its gone far enuff that it will take some time and another core cab to get that area cut out to section back into.
In the beginning processes of this I considered the roof cut; replace a roof from another cab-but that cutting and welding issue I felt was too extreme without a good location to hide the welds with. These cabs are structured in such a way that some real metal seperation is necessary to be performed in areas I cant get into-without completely ripping the whole cab apart to do so...

[chopped 71]

You say all the brackets are there are you selling the motor as well. I,m looking for a good running big block.