Motor mount torque - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

skokie · 02-23-2005, 12:12 AM

How much do you torque motor mounts to on a 350?

jhow66 · 02-23-2005, 12:20 AM

Tight. no TQ figures.

aesj2 · 02-23-2005, 12:26 AM

Every bolt, nut and screw on a vehicle has an installation torque value. If I can find my assambly/service manual I will post the value.

cableguy0 · 02-23-2005, 12:58 AM

place socket on impact fun place socket over bolt and pull the trigger till it stops turning then they are tight enough

Longhorn Man · 02-23-2005, 06:32 AM

While aesj2 is technicly right, there is a torque reading for every bolt...you'd be wasting your time.
Drive it on with an impact.
If you have no air tools, then tighten it down with your 1/2 inch drive ratchet. Put some ass on it, but no need to pull hard enough to get a hernia or break anything.

aesj2 · 02-24-2005, 02:32 AM

Just to think of all the time and money G.M. has wasted on engineering and equipment to install bolts. All they had to do was buy a big impact wrench.

Dean23 · 02-24-2005, 02:42 AM

Not sure what the torque is but you could go with GErman torgue which is Goodentight Just make sure you dont use russian torque which is Brokenoff

lol
hope I ooffended no one with this

chipflyer · 02-24-2005, 02:57 AM

I always got a kick out of "quarter of a turn before it breaks off." Actually if you get in the habit of torquing everything 2 things will happen.

1: You will not break a bolt off.

2: Stuff will not fall apart.

Here is a link to a torque table that you can use.
Torque table

classicchev · 02-24-2005, 02:59 AM

, good one Dean.

Portmod7 · 02-24-2005, 03:17 AM

So whats the tourque value for my muffler bearing output shaft.........if I use 90wt. on the first half of the threads, and DextronIII on the second half, and fully synthetic on the third half?

Russell · 02-24-2005, 03:34 AM

50 - 65 ft lbs is what my book says for my 80's engine mounts. I put them at 60 ft lbs

Longhorn Man · 02-24-2005, 04:31 AM

If we want to get completely technical, we'll need to look at the bolts and determine if they are stretched and or fatigued. Then, you can clean the threads and chase them with the proper tools, and only then can we install the bolt. This of course after inspecting the washers and replacing any lock washer that may have been installed 35 years ago and left out at some point by some shade tree mechanic with an impact.

Lets look at the torque reading given for the later style motor mount.
When you installed the old used bolt, in the dirty hole with no light weight oil...there is no telling if the bolt is actually torqued down properly. Regardless what the torque wrench says, it is not giving an acurate reading of the bolt's clamping ability at that given reading.
The dirt will cause resistance....higher reading
The lack of a light weight oil...will cause a higher reading
The rust on the bolt....higher reading
The fatigued bolt will give an inacurate reading (not sure which way)

So if we are going to be technical...let's get it right.

Grab an impact or a 1/2 inch ratchet, and tighten it up. If it makes you feel better, put some lock tight on the threads.

I always say, torque it down untill it spins freely, then back off 1/4 turn.

aesj2 · 02-24-2005, 04:42 AM

Who needs bolt, WELD IT ON.

cableguy0 · 02-24-2005, 04:45 AM

nahh welding wouldnt work so good being that the block is cast iron and the mounts are steel. impact gun would still work much better

aesj2 · 02-24-2005, 05:53 AM

JB Weld? Glue? Bubble gum........

Russell · 02-24-2005, 10:00 AM

I like the bubble gum idea

I do believe that your torque would be stronger with fatigue, as the bolt will be stretched out past the threshold, causing it to coagulate and not go back to it's original shape... This means that the bolt wouldn't stretch out anymore any time soon, making the torque you put on be more than it would have been before

Dean23 · 02-24-2005, 09:24 PM

Ahhh nothing tighter than a good crossthread anyways

Longhorn Man · 02-24-2005, 11:15 PM

Lofl!!!!

72402 · 02-24-2005, 11:21 PM

If you're talking about the bolts going into the block, standard torque for a 3/8, grade five bolt is 30-35 lbs, grade 8 is 45-50.

68w/sbc406 · 02-25-2005, 01:00 AM

you guys forgot the obvious, duct tape and bailing wire. those two things used seperatly or together will solve any problem

skokie · 02-25-2005, 01:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 68w/sbc406

you guys forgot the obvious, duct tape and bailing wire. those two things used seperatly or together will solve any problem

You forgot pliers

HAHAHHA

**VetteVet** · 02-25-2005, 01:29 AM

Is that like a lot of these threads being cross posted or Versa -Vicesa?
I couldn't get a torque wrench into my 67 mount bolts anyway

Vettevet

Tx Firefighter · 02-25-2005, 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skokie

You forgot pliers

HAHAHHA

We have a board member here who's name is Mr Goodpliers.

I get a laugh every time I see his name in a post.

68w/sbc406 · 02-25-2005, 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skokie

You forgot pliers

HAHAHHA

well cause that is the tool that you use to take the bolts out with so you can twist up the bailing wire, i was just talkin about the materials to fix it

biglou55 · 02-25-2005, 10:46 AM

Run a logging chain across the motor left to right drill holes in the crossmember and bolt it down. But then again what would be the torque specs on those bolts ??????

02-23-2005, 12:12 AM	#1
skokie Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: San Jose Ca. Posts: 3,318	Motor mount torque How much do you torque motor mounts to on a 350? __________________ RIP to my son Dylan. 5/17/2002 - 8/18/2018 If you want to know more about rare forms of pediatric cancer or if you want to help fund pediatric cancer research, please check out the website for the non-profit I started. https://slothforpedcancer.org 68 build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=223234

02-23-2005, 12:20 AM	#2
jhow66 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Knoxville Tenn. Posts: 3,058	Tight. no TQ figures. __________________ 56 Chevy Bel-Air 2dr. HT (purchased new) 71 Chevy Cheyenne SWB PU (502HO) 65 GMC short bed step--work in progress and my gofer

02-23-2005, 12:58 AM	#4
cableguy0 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Delta,Pa Posts: 14,950	place socket on impact fun place socket over bolt and pull the trigger till it stops turning then they are tight enough __________________ Owner of North Point Car Care in Dundalk Md. We specialize in custom exhaust on both modern and classic vehicles. We are a full service auto shop from classics to modern vehicles. Feel free to contact me with questions. I will give a 10% discount to any board member.

02-24-2005, 02:42 AM	#7
Dean23 68cst_ss490 Join Date: May 2001 Location: edmonton,canada Posts: 1,363	Not sure what the torque is but you could go with GErman torgue which is Goodentight Just make sure you dont use russian torque which is Brokenoff lol hope I ooffended no one with this __________________ Dean edmonton,canada a winter wonderland 2005 Chevrolet Avalanche LT cold air intake, performance exhaust, Comp cams cam, jba shorty ceramic headers. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3090973

02-24-2005, 02:57 AM	#8
chipflyer Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Topeka, Ks Posts: 2,293	I always got a kick out of "quarter of a turn before it breaks off." Actually if you get in the habit of torquing everything 2 things will happen. 1: You will not break a bolt off. 2: Stuff will not fall apart. Here is a link to a torque table that you can use. Torque table __________________ I'm not a pessimist, I'm just optimistic that bad things are going to happen. 1971 Cheyenne Super K10 - tilt, cruise, air, am/fm, tow hooks, factory buckets! 1986 Jeep J10 pickup, - 5.3L Vortec with 4L60e and NP241.

02-23-2005, 12:26 AM	#3
aesj2 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Ferndale, Michigan, USA Posts: 94	Every bolt, nut and screw on a vehicle has an installation torque value. If I can find my assambly/service manual I will post the value.

02-23-2005, 06:32 AM	#5
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	While aesj2 is technicly right, there is a torque reading for every bolt...you'd be wasting your time. Drive it on with an impact. If you have no air tools, then tighten it down with your 1/2 inch drive ratchet. Put some ass on it, but no need to pull hard enough to get a hernia or break anything.

02-24-2005, 02:32 AM	#6
aesj2 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Ferndale, Michigan, USA Posts: 94	Just to think of all the time and money G.M. has wasted on engineering and equipment to install bolts. All they had to do was buy a big impact wrench.

02-24-2005, 02:59 AM	#9
classicchev Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Calgary Alberta Posts: 1,936	, good one Dean.

02-24-2005, 03:17 AM	#10
Portmod7 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Aztec, NM Posts: 388	So whats the tourque value for my muffler bearing output shaft.........if I use 90wt. on the first half of the threads, and DextronIII on the second half, and fully synthetic on the third half?

02-24-2005, 03:34 AM	#11
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	50 - 65 ft lbs is what my book says for my 80's engine mounts. I put them at 60 ft lbs __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

02-24-2005, 04:31 AM	#12
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	If we want to get completely technical, we'll need to look at the bolts and determine if they are stretched and or fatigued. Then, you can clean the threads and chase them with the proper tools, and only then can we install the bolt. This of course after inspecting the washers and replacing any lock washer that may have been installed 35 years ago and left out at some point by some shade tree mechanic with an impact. Lets look at the torque reading given for the later style motor mount. When you installed the old used bolt, in the dirty hole with no light weight oil...there is no telling if the bolt is actually torqued down properly. Regardless what the torque wrench says, it is not giving an acurate reading of the bolt's clamping ability at that given reading. The dirt will cause resistance....higher reading The lack of a light weight oil...will cause a higher reading The rust on the bolt....higher reading The fatigued bolt will give an inacurate reading (not sure which way) So if we are going to be technical...let's get it right. Grab an impact or a 1/2 inch ratchet, and tighten it up. If it makes you feel better, put some lock tight on the threads. I always say, torque it down untill it spins freely, then back off 1/4 turn.

02-24-2005, 04:42 AM	#13
aesj2 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Ferndale, Michigan, USA Posts: 94	Who needs bolt, WELD IT ON.

02-24-2005, 04:45 AM	#14
cableguy0 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Delta,Pa Posts: 14,950	nahh welding wouldnt work so good being that the block is cast iron and the mounts are steel. impact gun would still work much better __________________ Owner of North Point Car Care in Dundalk Md. We specialize in custom exhaust on both modern and classic vehicles. We are a full service auto shop from classics to modern vehicles. Feel free to contact me with questions. I will give a 10% discount to any board member.

02-24-2005, 05:53 AM	#15
aesj2 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Ferndale, Michigan, USA Posts: 94	JB Weld? Glue? Bubble gum........



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02-24-2005, 10:00 AM	#16
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	I like the bubble gum idea I do believe that your torque would be stronger with fatigue, as the bolt will be stretched out past the threshold, causing it to coagulate and not go back to it's original shape... This means that the bolt wouldn't stretch out anymore any time soon, making the torque you put on be more than it would have been before __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

02-24-2005, 09:24 PM	#17
Dean23 68cst_ss490 Join Date: May 2001 Location: edmonton,canada Posts: 1,363	Ahhh nothing tighter than a good crossthread anyways __________________ Dean edmonton,canada a winter wonderland 2005 Chevrolet Avalanche LT cold air intake, performance exhaust, Comp cams cam, jba shorty ceramic headers. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3090973

02-24-2005, 11:15 PM	#18
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Lofl!!!!

02-24-2005, 11:21 PM	#19
72402 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Cameron, Oklahoma Posts: 199	If you're talking about the bolts going into the block, standard torque for a 3/8, grade five bolt is 30-35 lbs, grade 8 is 45-50.

02-25-2005, 01:00 AM	#20
68w/sbc406 Got Light Emitting Diode? Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Newberg, OR Posts: 2,485	you guys forgot the obvious, duct tape and bailing wire. those two things used seperatly or together will solve any problem __________________ 1968 1/2 ton 2wd lwb 6 lug disc and bags up front. Next c notch and rear bags '02 Chevy Silverado LT ext cab short bed 2WD 5/7 drop on 22's(the family car) 1993 Cherokee work ride/weekend wheeler

02-25-2005, 01:29 AM	#22
VetteVet Msgt USAF Ret Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Kalamazoo, Michigan Posts: 8,709	Is that like a lot of these threads being cross posted or Versa -Vicesa? I couldn't get a torque wrench into my 67 mount bolts anyway Vettevet __________________ VetteVet metallic green 67 stepside 74 corvette convertible 1965 Harley sportster 1995 Harley wide glide Growing old is hell, but it beats the alternative.

02-25-2005, 10:46 AM	#25
biglou55 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Greenfield Mass. Posts: 551	Run a logging chain across the motor left to right drill holes in the crossmember and bolt it down. But then again what would be the torque specs on those bolts ?????? __________________ Certifiably crazy person

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