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Old 04-13-2002, 11:34 PM   #1
RipMeyer
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Post OIL Thick Or Thin? What Do You Use?

Is your oil thick or thin? What weight do you use? Multi viscosity? What are the determining factors to use thick or thin?
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Old 04-13-2002, 11:44 PM   #2
O'l Buck
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I use Napa premium performace 10w-40 in everything I own. I suppose the determining factor for needed viscosity is the condition of your engine, if the cam bearings are worn, use heavier oil to boost oil pressure, if in good shape, use the 10-40, at least that's my theory.

------------------
Ol' Buck: '72 Chevy 1/2T 4x4 shortbox stepside 350/350auto on '84
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Old 04-14-2002, 01:00 AM   #3
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I agree with his train of thought.
If the insides of your engine (or the # of miles) is unknown, run heavy stuff. I run 20/50 in both my drivers.
Thicker oil will 'cusion' the blow of sloppy bearings, and will also slow down blow by.

------------------
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Old 04-14-2002, 03:28 AM   #4
Project1970
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Thick Valvoline MaxLife, 20w50, in my 120,000 mile 350.

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Old 04-14-2002, 04:23 AM   #5
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Thicker oil is also better for running in hotter climates. I'd go thinner in freezing conditions.

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Old 04-14-2002, 04:41 AM   #6
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I live in the Southeast. SC and I use to run Castrol 20w-50 all the time until I found out that the heavy oil in the summer time could cost you power. I have been using Castrol oil 10w-30 ever since am pleased with it. I have a 93 sub. and 94 elderado and both of them recommend 10w-30, so I figured why not the 71 with 86 305 H.O. TPI. Sure makes changing the oil easier with only one oil to buy. Really think it has todo with climate,miles on motor mostly though it's just to the personal feelings of each.

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[This message has been edited by Andy4639 (edited April 14, 2002).]
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It sucks not being able to hear!

LWB trucks rule, if you don't think so measure your SWB!
After talking to tech support at Air Lift I have found out that the kit I need is 60811. Per the measurements I gave them. Ride height of truck inside spring and inside diameter of springs.
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Old 04-14-2002, 06:11 AM   #7
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Everyone always has a thought on this topic and here's mine. I once bought a truck from an exectutive that had the oil changed every 2500 miles with 5w-30. At 100,000 miles it blew a head gasket and I removed the engine for rebuilding. Upon dissassembly, every item inside was scored and unusable including the rockerarms. I have never seen such worn components. Auto makers push for 5w30 to meet the fuel mileage requirements. 5w-30 will give a little more power because of less viscocity drag. It comes with a price in the end with worn components. I use 20w50 summer and 10w40 winter on all my vehicles. I have a new geo metro (wife drives 80 miles/day) and I run 20w50 Mobil 1 in it. Last time I had a new Metro in 1993 I ran 20w50 mobil 1 and I put on 150,000 on the 3 cylinder before someone rear ended me! Still ran super.
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Old 04-14-2002, 06:56 AM   #8
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I run 10w30 in the pick up and then what ever is recommended in the other vehicles. I had found on a 87 pontiac 6000 with a 2.5l l4 that if we ran 10w30 it would use a quart of oil in 3k mi but if we went back to 5w30 like was recommended it wouldn't use a drop. it had 218k on the speedo when we had to tear into it because the plastic crank sensor broke off in side the motor (didn't want it geting into the oil pump) and decided to put new bearings and rings because of the high mileage. we should have left the bearings alone, they had hardly any wear. it suprised the hell out of us. needless to say we will stay with castrol.
Also found on some of the new motors, if a person runs to thick of oil it will gum up the inside real bad. Have seen a few gernade because the pump couldn't move any oil. My theory is that the new motors run a little cooler and don't allow the oil to reach it's temp to do the cleaning part. haven't done much research on this though..

------------------
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97 GMC Yukon 4X4 SLT
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Old 04-14-2002, 07:21 AM   #9
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Didn't mention got over 250,000 miles on the 71 86 TPI motor and 129,000 on the 93 sub. I drive the 71 everyday to work, and I travel between SC, and NC. Never had any kind of oil related problems with any of the cars. Oh 94 cadliac has 60,000 wifes car. What can I say. Like before I think it's what ever you want to use, doesn't matter. Just keep it changed.

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Get out and drive the truck this summer and have some fun!
It sucks not being able to hear!

LWB trucks rule, if you don't think so measure your SWB!
After talking to tech support at Air Lift I have found out that the kit I need is 60811. Per the measurements I gave them. Ride height of truck inside spring and inside diameter of springs.
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Old 04-14-2002, 10:35 AM   #10
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Ok, So what are you guys callin heavy? and is it multi viscosity?
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Old 04-14-2002, 10:59 AM   #11
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It's all going to depend on the condition of your main bearings. If there worn you would want to run a thicker oil to keep up pressure. I run 40wt. bucuse my bearing are a bit worn out. You don't want to go to thick or you may not get oil into the bearings or to thin becuse you won't get enough. My buddy snapped a billit BB crack in half becuse we built the motor for 50 racing and then he dumped 20/50 into it.

------------------
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Old 04-14-2002, 11:22 AM   #12
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straight 20w in a tight engine
straight 30w in a loose engine

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Old 04-14-2002, 01:21 PM   #13
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where do you guys stand on synthetics? Im using castrol syntec...not just because john force promotes it...well..that is the reason..but is it any good?...and when u put together a new motor, do you break it in with a synthetic or a regular oil?
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Old 04-14-2002, 06:55 PM   #14
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Synth is good if you have a good motor. Never break it in on synth. Use a non detergent oil to break it in for the first 500 or so. then you can do a switch to synth

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Old 04-14-2002, 07:06 PM   #15
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ditto with southpa
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Old 04-14-2002, 07:18 PM   #16
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Straight 30wt in my motors.prefer Valvoline,but whatever is on sale sometimes,There all old and sloppy,oh one does get 50wt.,seems to go thru less oil.
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Old 04-14-2002, 08:01 PM   #17
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I stand by Castrol Synthetic blend, and or Full synthetic I run my engines hard. I just had it fully rebuilt ran Synthitic in it from the start, and have before almost ran the engine out of oil, and it never blew up, I don't care what anyone says Castrol synthtic works. And my uncle has put it in engines that smoke and it cuts engine smoking in half.

Thiner oil will give you more hp, but not if its cheap oil, because it'll wear your motor from accessive heat, and viscocity break down, but as long as its synthetic, or Castrol oil use 10-30 LOL Or Mobil if your rich! LOL

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Old 04-14-2002, 11:16 PM   #18
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castrol 20-50 in all my rides, it's always hot in louisiana

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Old 04-15-2002, 01:13 AM   #19
Project1970
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Synthetic rocks. Let's put it this way, after 80,000 miles each on Mobil1 full synthetic post-breakin, both the 1994 Z28 and 1997 Suburban keep the oil clean for quite some time (5000 mile oilchanges) into their changes. 10w30 in the Suburban, and 20w50 in the Camaro (LT1s don't build enough pressure with 10w30 synthetic!).

Whenever I get a new engine in my truck, it'll go synthetic too.

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Old 04-15-2002, 02:08 AM   #20
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I use Penzoil 10w30 (the original regular old oil) in my truck. Its just what I have always used.

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Plan to get painted weekend before memorial day weekend.
Planned to be done March 7 when I turned 16. Didn't happen. Chose to do better job and be behind schedule instead of 1/2 doing it and it looking like junk.

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Old 04-15-2002, 07:30 PM   #21
dion
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I have about 500 miles on my rebuilt, the oil has been changed twice with 20/50 by my Mechanic, should I switch to 10/30? I have been having a little problem with the pressure.

------------------
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