need help with timing - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**Nima** · 11-15-2008, 03:35 PM

Ok, I am swicthing to HEI using a mallory system that I have. I marked the driections of vacume and the rotor. turned the engine to TDC @ #1, then tried to drop the new dzzy. The balancer was at zero at this time. the last 1/4-1/2 inche didn't go in regardless how much I palyed with it. Base on what I read in some of the posts, I turned the engine by hand, slowly until it dropped in by itself. Engine was turned clockwitse for the total of 20-30 degrees I think. Hooked up 12 V unfused ignition wire and tried to fire it up. Fuel spits out of the carb and that's it. Does engine is too advanced? Can I just tunne by turning the dizzy or do I have to take eveything apart? Or there is something else I am not doing? How can I say that I was not at exhaust TDC? Any input would be great.
Thanks.

dave2953 · 11-15-2008, 03:56 PM

It could be possible that you are 180* out, but not necessarily. Whenever I have to stab my distributor I haven't ever turned the motor to get the dizzy to drop that last little bit. I just turn the distributor until it clicks. I've always pointed the oil pump shaft at ~11 o'clock and when the dizzy drops in it's pointing right at #1. I hope this makes sense. I'm not the best at explaining my methods, but it does work much better than it sounds on paper. Also, did you remove the valve cover to be certain what stroke you were on?

**Nima** · 11-15-2008, 04:05 PM

No, I didn't remove the valve cover but some thing else came to my mind. If #1 is at TDC, the rotor must point toward nember 1, is this correct. Because Now I remember that When I was marking the direction of rotor on the old dizzy, it was toward #2.

cdowns · 11-15-2008, 04:13 PM

the engine is at TDC for each cylinder twice//to time correctly it needs to be at TDC on the compression stroke

dave2953 · 11-15-2008, 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdowns

the engine is at TDC for each cylinder twice//to time correctly it needs to be at TDC on the compression stroke

Exactly....that's why I take the valve cover off to verify the position of the valves. It could be pointing to #1, but if it's not on the proper stroke it won't fire

Sinister · 11-15-2008, 04:54 PM

I take out the #1 spark plug and use a remote starter switch. When I feel the puff of air out of the spark plug hole, and the balancer mark is on the timing tab, I know I'm good to go. I usually double check the rotor as well.

msgross · 11-15-2008, 04:55 PM

I had to use a screwdriver and line up the oil pump to get mine to seat all the way down.

LONGHAIR · 11-15-2008, 07:47 PM

I always do the turn to drop method, the gears are already engaged so nothing can change, it all turns together.
You mentioned that you first marked the rotor and vacuum canister points, so there really is no reason to think you are 180 degrees out, if you put it back the way the old one came out. This of course assumes that the plug wires are on the cap in the same relationship to the original too.

Pointing toward #2 cylinder is way too advanced. #2 is the last in the firing order before starting back at #1 again....

If you have enough rotational travel, you can just turn the distributor clockwise to retard it. If you don't have enough turning space, pull it back out and turn the rotor clockwise one tooth and drop it back in. It will not line-up with the oil pump shaft, just turn the engine until it drops the last little bit.

**Nima** · 11-16-2008, 12:53 AM

Got it to work. Thanks for all the helps. One thing that I experienced, when I had the #1 on TDC it wouldn't drop in for the last 1/2 inche, then I start to turning the engine clockwise, the rotor was turning with it too although it was not all the way in. anyways, it got to the point that it dropped in, at that time, the rotor looked way off but when I turned the engine back to TDC the rotor was facing the #1 perfectly!. Started right up after that. Thanks again.

newbraunie · 11-16-2008, 11:11 AM

It works best for me to line up timing mark at 12-18 degrees TDC instead of 0 degrees TDC when dropping in dizzy. This way when you bump the motor to get the dizzy to drop into place ( that last 1/4-1/2 inch) it will give the gear a chance to engage and rotor will line up just right.

11-15-2008, 04:05 PM	#3
Nima Blue 67 Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Western WA Posts: 1,175	Re: need help with timing No, I didn't remove the valve cover but some thing else came to my mind. If #1 is at TDC, the rotor must point toward nember 1, is this correct. Because Now I remember that When I was marking the direction of rotor on the old dizzy, it was toward #2. __________________ 1953 GMC 3/4 ton: current project 1967 C20: 5.3 voretc with T5 conversion, 4 wheel 8 lug disc brake 1972 Nova: my 4 door sport sedan! 5.3 voretc + T5 conversion. drivable project, FUN!! 1979 Camaro Z28: 5.3 vortec conversion with build TH350: drivable project, Fun to drive 1992 Camaro RS convertible (Z28 clone): 5.3 conversion with build T5: on going project 2005 Silverado 2500, 4x4 Duramax, original owner

11-15-2008, 04:13 PM	#4
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	Re: need help with timing the engine is at TDC for each cylinder twice//to time correctly it needs to be at TDC on the compression stroke __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

11-15-2008, 04:54 PM	#6
Sinister Between Trucks... Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 3,830	Re: need help with timing I take out the #1 spark plug and use a remote starter switch. When I feel the puff of air out of the spark plug hole, and the balancer mark is on the timing tab, I know I'm good to go. I usually double check the rotor as well. __________________ Beat it to fit, Paint it to match...

11-15-2008, 04:55 PM	#7
msgross Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Central PA Posts: 12,201	Re: need help with timing I had to use a screwdriver and line up the oil pump to get mine to seat all the way down. __________________ The Garage: 1968 K-10 SWB - "Project Money Pit" 1996 Z-71 - "huntin rig" 1969 C-10 LWB (SOLD) "Project flip that truck or else" 1993 Passport, F@rd 1-ton (SOLD)"Project Cousin Eddie" My Garage Build "The 1,000 footer"

11-15-2008, 07:47 PM	#8
LONGHAIR just can't cover up my redneck Join Date: May 2004 Location: Columbus OH Posts: 11,414	Re: need help with timing I always do the turn to drop method, the gears are already engaged so nothing can change, it all turns together. You mentioned that you first marked the rotor and vacuum canister points, so there really is no reason to think you are 180 degrees out, if you put it back the way the old one came out. This of course assumes that the plug wires are on the cap in the same relationship to the original too. Pointing toward #2 cylinder is way too advanced. #2 is the last in the firing order before starting back at #1 again.... If you have enough rotational travel, you can just turn the distributor clockwise to retard it. If you don't have enough turning space, pull it back out and turn the rotor clockwise one tooth and drop it back in. It will not line-up with the oil pump shaft, just turn the engine until it drops the last little bit. Last edited by LONGHAIR; 11-15-2008 at 07:49 PM.

11-15-2008, 03:35 PM	#1
Nima Blue 67 Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Western WA Posts: 1,175	need help with timing Ok, I am swicthing to HEI using a mallory system that I have. I marked the driections of vacume and the rotor. turned the engine to TDC @ #1, then tried to drop the new dzzy. The balancer was at zero at this time. the last 1/4-1/2 inche didn't go in regardless how much I palyed with it. Base on what I read in some of the posts, I turned the engine by hand, slowly until it dropped in by itself. Engine was turned clockwitse for the total of 20-30 degrees I think. Hooked up 12 V unfused ignition wire and tried to fire it up. Fuel spits out of the carb and that's it. Does engine is too advanced? Can I just tunne by turning the dizzy or do I have to take eveything apart? Or there is something else I am not doing? How can I say that I was not at exhaust TDC? Any input would be great. Thanks. __________________ 1953 GMC 3/4 ton: current project 1967 C20: 5.3 voretc with T5 conversion, 4 wheel 8 lug disc brake 1972 Nova: my 4 door sport sedan! 5.3 voretc + T5 conversion. drivable project, FUN!! 1979 Camaro Z28: 5.3 vortec conversion with build TH350: drivable project, Fun to drive 1992 Camaro RS convertible (Z28 clone): 5.3 conversion with build T5: on going project 2005 Silverado 2500, 4x4 Duramax, original owner

11-15-2008, 03:56 PM	#2
dave2953 Dave's not here, man Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Winder, Georgia Posts: 2,000	Re: need help with timing It could be possible that you are 180* out, but not necessarily. Whenever I have to stab my distributor I haven't ever turned the motor to get the dizzy to drop that last little bit. I just turn the distributor until it clicks. I've always pointed the oil pump shaft at ~11 o'clock and when the dizzy drops in it's pointing right at #1. I hope this makes sense. I'm not the best at explaining my methods, but it does work much better than it sounds on paper. Also, did you remove the valve cover to be certain what stroke you were on? __________________ - 2014 VW Jetta - 2015 VW Jetta - 1966 Ford F-250

11-16-2008, 12:53 AM	#9
Nima Blue 67 Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Western WA Posts: 1,175	Re: need help with timing Got it to work. Thanks for all the helps. One thing that I experienced, when I had the #1 on TDC it wouldn't drop in for the last 1/2 inche, then I start to turning the engine clockwise, the rotor was turning with it too although it was not all the way in. anyways, it got to the point that it dropped in, at that time, the rotor looked way off but when I turned the engine back to TDC the rotor was facing the #1 perfectly!. Started right up after that. Thanks again. __________________ 1953 GMC 3/4 ton: current project 1967 C20: 5.3 voretc with T5 conversion, 4 wheel 8 lug disc brake 1972 Nova: my 4 door sport sedan! 5.3 voretc + T5 conversion. drivable project, FUN!! 1979 Camaro Z28: 5.3 vortec conversion with build TH350: drivable project, Fun to drive 1992 Camaro RS convertible (Z28 clone): 5.3 conversion with build T5: on going project 2005 Silverado 2500, 4x4 Duramax, original owner

11-16-2008, 11:11 AM	#10
newbraunie Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Central TX Posts: 393	Re: need help with timing It works best for me to line up timing mark at 12-18 degrees TDC instead of 0 degrees TDC when dropping in dizzy. This way when you bump the motor to get the dizzy to drop into place ( that last 1/4-1/2 inch) it will give the gear a chance to engage and rotor will line up just right.



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