Replacing floor pans, rocker panels, etc.

[wilkinst]

I've done a lot of reading about replacing the floor pans, rocker panels, cab mounts, etc., but I wanted to get some confirmation from those of you who have dealt specifically with the same truck. Here's what I'm starting with:











I have all the patch panels from LMC to do the job, along with some other sheet metal bits that I've cut to size. From what I've seen I should start with the cab supports, move to the floor pans and work out to the rocker panels. The part I'm still concerned about is bracing the cab and aligning everything. The truck will be on a fairly level concrete pad during all of this. I'm going to have to jack the cab up to do the supports/mounts so do I leave it jacked up to do the rest of the work on the floor pans or do I lower it back on the mounts? I've also thought about removing the doors for easier access...is this a good idea? I would put them back on when it came time to do the rocker panels to get my fitment/gap correct. My floor is so far gone I think I'm going to brace the cab before cutting anything out so the cab maintains its shape... where do I brace it for optimum rigidity?

Thanks for the help!
Trey

[Heater63]

Holy Cr*p Batman. I would look for another cab. Seriously!
If you're asking, then you're like me, a novice with patch panels and bodywork. Take this one to a professional that has done a LOT of this type work. The bracing is absolutley necessary, and the alignment is critical.

[72lb4x4]

Ebfabman has a DVD showing how he does it on a 67-72. You can also look at the body section, since this is a common rust area.

I haven't done it but I need to on mine as well. I'd say keep the cab on the truck and the truck on its wheels. Also fit the doors before welding and make sure they fit right.

You can save it!

[andyspinstriping]

I'm a bodyman by trade and have done several of these trucks that were in worse condition than that. This one is not too bad, just take your time and measure everything out! While the cab is still anchored to the frame weld in some bracing so it maintains it's shape. X-bracing side to side through the cab and then in the door opening should work good. Once its braced you can take the cab off without worry. With how far gone the metal is you might have a hard time doing the braces first and then moving to the floors and the rockers...you might have to take awhile and get some exacting measurments and then go in reverse starting with the rockers then the floor then the braces. This is because the braces weld to the floor and the rockers and yours seem to be pretty much none existent. Another tip that will help you out tons is after removing your rusty metal and before welding new pieces in try to get everything sand blasted. This will give you clean metal to weld to which is important for structural integrity. Get some weld through zinc primer and coat everything good before welding and you should get a quality repair...I will be doing all the same panels in a 61 Apache starting in a couple weeks so I will post pics of the process and you can follow along.
Good luck!

[wilkinst]

Finding a decent cab in VA is next to impossible, so I'm going to work with what I have. The rest of the cab is in great shape (surprisingly).

This one is not too bad, just take your time and measure everything out! While the cab is still anchored to the frame weld in some bracing so it maintains it's shape. X-bracing side to side through the cab and then in the door opening should work good. Once its braced you can take the cab off without worry. With how far gone the metal is you might have a hard time doing the braces first and then moving to the floors and the rockers...you might have to take awhile and get some exacting measurments and then go in reverse starting with the rockers then the floor then the braces. This is because the braces weld to the floor and the rockers and yours seem to be pretty much none existent.

I don't plan on actually taking the cab off the frame, I guess I was more worried about bracing the cab so that when I cut out all of my rust the cab doesn't flex or shift. I had also thought about doing the rockers first and moving in towards the floor pans...has anybody else done this and had success?

Thanks for the help!

[65Custom]

There are many post and builds on here of what many have done

Here is my build page and I think mine was worse than yours and I have kept mine but went a slightly different route, i replaced the whole floor and firewall

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=366677

[198plus]

If I had to start over, I would have found a different cab..........

[Alan's Classic]

This is how I brace them. How do your doors open and close now? Are they sagging due to the A pillar moving from the weight of the door. Just something to think about. You wouldn't want to brace something that is not in the right position.

[wilkinst]

My doors open and close pretty good right now, even with the collapsed cab mounts. I jacked the cab up off the mounts (back to its original position) and they close perfectly. I'm going to at least get that cab support and cab mount back to it's original position then do my bracing and cutting.

Thanks for your help, those pictures were exactly what I was looking for!

[LostMy65]

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[awbrown]

get whats left of the old rocker off first and start test fitting your rocker ... if your doors close nice once the rocker is tacked on then continue ... but your cab suport has to have something to hook to , I put the cab suports in last because I had no inner rocker to hook to when I did mine ... get panels that have the holes for the cab support , just takes the pain out of having to drill them later ... this is what I started with .. and this is where I am both sides are all welded in now ...

[LostMy65]

Thanks for the update.

It really helps when one posts their projects.

[LostMy65]

I recently added many threads to the FAQ:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...43&postcount=2

But, I figured this was the most applicable thread regarding my question.

Is there a preferred order of replacement?

I'm doing front cab supports, inner and outer rockers, & cab corners.
Obviously, when I pull the rocker panel off, I'll likely need to replace the pillar supports also.

Either way;
I'm thinking while I have the cab loose and tipped up on its back, I'll do the front supports first.
Then roll the cab back and bolt it down.
Then I'll weld in some temp cross supports as shown in this thread.
Then I can start cutting out the outer rocker, then cab corner, then inner rocker/partial floor. Then work my way back out, by replacing inner rocker/partial floor, then outer rocker and cab corner.

Anything sound wrong?
Anything I should be watching out for?
Any Tips/Tricks?

Thanks,
Robert
Then I'll roll the cab

[LostMy65]

These are the parts I'm replacing:

[krazy_texan]

I need to get mine done before winter cause it will be my daily driver lol
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[Captainfab]

That plan sounds good Robert. One thing I will add, is that you will want to be able to install the doors and check the position of the rockers, and cab corners during the process. I typically take some measurements from the top of the door opening down to the rockers prior to removing the originals. This helps to get things back in the ball park prior to text fitting the doors. Taking reference measurements can be used for other areas being replaced also.

[LostMy65]

Thanks for the tip.

[andyspinstriping]

Your truck is looking pretty good so far!

[LostMy65]

Has anybody bought their Front Cab Supports from Classic Parts?
If so, did it look like this? :


Or This? :


Most those here who I've seen replace this part, have the part where you have to bend your own tabs. Unlike the first pic where the tabs are already bent.

[mbgmike]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

Has anybody bought their Front Cab Supports from Classic Parts?
If so, did it look like this? :


Or This? :


Most those here who I've seen replace this part, have the part where you have to bend your own tabs. Unlike the first pic where the tabs are already bent.

its not hard at all to bend the tabs. Just use a vise.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by mbgmike

its not hard at all to bend the tabs. Just use a vise.

Thanks, but that's not why I'm asking.
Reading these forums I've noticed the ones where you have to bend the tabs have all been coming up short. I'm curious if anyone has bought the one from classicparts, and if it looks like the pic they show, and does it fit better?
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[rockdogg2020]

I used the one from classic parts.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by rockdogg2020

I used the one from classic parts.

Do you have a pic of those tabs I was referring to?

[65Custom]

I used the same part where you had to bend the tabs but what I also noticed was the part is listed as universal or for both left and right, but part is actually for the left side I think ( my memory is not as god as it once was) so when using the same part for the right side the holes did not line up right and you are left with welding them up and redrilling them at least what I had to do on mine

I also noticed that the one I used seem to be a bit short once the tabs were bent I think the un coated one with the tabs bent looks like it would be a better fit and stamped part JMHO

I wish I had done more research before I bought I had a similar issue with the cab corners and the ones from classic were better that the ones from LMC

[rockdogg2020]

I agree. The tabs were shorter than expected. I already installed it on my truck but if you like i could try to take a pic.