Best way to break loose brake lines?

[Beat68CST]

Well...

I'm almost done with all of my brakes and wheel bearings for the old ride.

Seems to be one thing holdin me up...

Coil spring rear, the brake line up in the frame area on the rear end is not wanting to break loose...


I would love to get my new CPP brake booster and master cylinder on, the last two wheel cylinders and all the shoes so I can put them beautiful 3/4 ton rear hubs back on and admire those floater axles (:


Soooo, it's been soakin with some PB'laster for a lil while now, but it wasn't wantin to move...
IDEAS!

[vectorit]

Mine was frozen too, and even with a line wrench it rounded off to the point I couldn't get a good grip.

I ended up using a Dremel tool with a cut off disc, and very carefully sliced it until it came loose. Being very careful to not cut too deep.

It was the best thing I had as an option, and I thought it worked good so as to avoid damaging the frame brake line.

[Beat68CST]

Originally Posted by vectorit

Mine was frozen too, and even with a line wrench it rounded off to the point I couldn't get a good grip.

I ended up using a Dremel tool with a cut off disc, and very carefully sliced it until it came loose. Being very careful to not cut too deep.

It was the best thing I had as an option, and I thought it worked good so as to avoid damaging the frame brake line.

Damnn...

Well, that doesn't sound fun at all, but the same thing was happenin with my line wrench...

Thank you for the input though!

[lolife99]

Heat sometimes helps.
PB blaster and a torch.
Wiggle the flare nut back and forth until it breaks free.
Then use a little anti-seize on the threads of the nut before reassembly, and you won't have these troubles again.

[passthebuck]

I had to change mine & was forced to heat the fitting. Had to use a lot of heat & the hose blew up (wear eye pro...) but I was able to thread the remains of the brake hose off of the fitting (the fitting was rusted to the steel line) using 2 pairs of vicegrips because all the wrench flats had rusted off. Aside from that, it went well.

[ItsRandy]

Vicegrips...works for me!

[oldblue1968chevy]

vicegrips! lol

[Longhorn Man]

Try heat first, but be carefull, the fluid will boil and hoses can explode. I've been there too. Trust me, brake fluid burns your eyes... boiling brake fluid will make you wish you were dead.
I get a lotta crap for this, but I've had better luck with a small 6 inch crecent wrench than I have with lower cost line wrenches. I wiggle the wrench back and forth and try to tighten it more and more.
If you still get no love, then get the locking pliers.

[Beat68CST]

Yeah I started heatin it up pretty good, seemed old cobwebs and suck wanted to make fire...


And with as dry and cracked as that would bed is I decided to be a lil more careful and stop, but I'm gonna go give it another go right now (:


Thanks for the help!




Well! I tried the torch again, got that line away from the bed as best as I could, and started heatin it up reallll good. Finally broke loose, before I started heatin it up, I cut the hose in the middle so there wouldn't be any pressure building up while heating it. In the end, my lil wrench was startin to get a lil warm, even warm to my welding hands O:

Thanks again guys (:

[murry11]

I would Just order a new set from LMC Truck. That's what I did on my 72 .

[Beat68CST]

Being 18 and broke, you have to make due with what ya got and spend on what ya NEED :P

savin to get the Turbo 400 rebuilt now, right after I get my other 2 u joints since I spent my money on my little sister's birthday present...

[Longhorn Man]

you have to remove the hose in order to replace it... he cut it so I doubt he's going to reuse it.

[Beat68CST]

The point of getting it off was to replace it O:

[Longhorn Man]

my point exactly

[C10_ustacould]

Torque should always broken by tightening just a bit then backing the nut or bolt out.