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Old 03-23-2002, 04:27 PM   #1
70 GMC 4x4
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Post Calipers not working

Just did the drum to disc swap and I can not get the calipers to work. I have brake fluid to the bleeder screws. Is there anything special you have to do? There is a rubber thing on the porportioning valve that is stuck in, is that right?

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Tim
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Old 03-23-2002, 07:35 PM   #2
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did you use the right master and prop valve?

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Old 03-23-2002, 08:23 PM   #3
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I also completed a disc to drum conversion but I cannot seem to get any pressure when I bleed the lines. I called Early Classics and was told it sounded like there was air in the lines. I have bench bleed this damn thing multiple times and started at the first fiting after the porportioning valve and it still has hardly any pressure. WTF?

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Old 03-23-2002, 10:53 PM   #4
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There are a few things that can be the problem. I already went thru this. Make sure the rod into the master is long enough. Disc brakes take a longer rod than drum. Bleed the master first. Then go to the right rear, then the left rear, right front and the left front last.

Nobody mentioned what year or what master you were using. It all has to work together.

I can be reached at (530) 889-1104. I converted my 68 fron 4 wheel drum to 4 wheel disc.

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Old 03-23-2002, 11:15 PM   #5
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Fleetimus,

I am using the master cylinder and brake booster off a 72 GMC, also the porportioning valve. I know the calipers sat a while before I put them on, could they be rusted in place? Do I need to replace them? I have fluid at all for wheels.

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Old 03-24-2002, 06:52 AM   #6
72futuresweet2wd
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fleetimus

I bought everything new from Early Classics and I don't know what year they use. I have done things in the order you mentioned I was wondering if the new master cylinder or the porp valve could be screwed up. The only thing I did not replace is the lines and the rear drums.

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Old 03-24-2002, 08:18 AM   #7
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70 GMC 4x4,You say you're getting fluid to all four wheels-you don't by chance have the calipers switched from left to right?Look at the bleeder valves-they should be at the highest point on the caliper.

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Old 03-24-2002, 10:21 AM   #8
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I'm thinking!?!?!? I am still wondering about the push rod. If you are using the drum push rod for the master, it does not have enough throw for the disc brakes. Make sure the rear brakes are adjusted. Is the dash brake lite on? If so, you may have to reset the proportioning valve. Some have the small button on the end that has to be pushed in while bleeding a rear line. Make sure the lines are hooked up to the right resevoir on the master. If one resevoir is larger, it should be supplying the disc brakes. ( I don't mean to offend anybody with these suggestions) I am just throwing out possibilities.

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Old 03-24-2002, 11:52 AM   #9
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The push rod, master cylinder, brake booster all came from a 72 3/4 truck with disc brakes. One thing is the button on the porportion valve does not move, seems like it is pushed all the way in, is there suppose to be movement?

Thanks
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Old 03-25-2002, 09:01 AM   #10
72futuresweet2wd
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fleetimus

My prop valve has the small button on the front of it and I did not know it must be pushed in for the rears. It moves when you pump the brakes I will try holding next time I get a chance. Also the brake light in the dash is on. Rear brakes are adjusted and the chambers are equal sizes.

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Old 03-25-2002, 10:38 AM   #11
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This is the first time I have heard anything about the button on the proportioning valve being related to bleeding the rear brakes. Can you tell me what needs to be done with the valve as it applies to bleeding the brakes? Does it need to be pushed in the entire time while bleeding the rear brakes? Does it need to be used when bleeding the front brakes? Thanks...

[This message has been edited by Alex Hayley (edited March 25, 2002).]
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Old 03-26-2002, 09:40 AM   #12
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ttt
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Old 03-26-2002, 11:05 AM   #13
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Any service manual shows how to make a simple tool to hold the button in on the prop valve but I have never had to do it to get the brakes bled. One thing that no one has mentioned is free play on the pushrod. You need to check that there is free play when the pedal comes back or the master cylinder will not return fully. If the Master cylinder does not return fully you will never get the brakes bled.

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