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Old 06-17-2003, 06:58 PM   #1
lukecp
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Talking Got it running!

I finally got my truck to run today, one week after i starting tearing it apart. I put a set of 186 double hump heads on it, with 2.02/1.60 valves, 64cc chambers, and some pocket porting. I worked on it for a few hours a day after i got home from work, and all day Sunday, lol. This is the biggest task on my truck i have accomplished yet, so it took me a bit longer than most people.

Anyway, it wouldn't run for several reasons. First, i adjusted the valves too tight. I went back over and adjusted them cold until i couldn't move the pushrod up and down anymore, and then gave it another 1/8 of a turn.

Second is an act of my stupidity. When i put the plug wires back on the distributor, i put them on as if the distributor was turning counter clockwise . So if was if my firing order was 1-2-7-5, ect.

I messed with the timing and got it so it is now at 11 degrees advanced, and it seems to run good. It also seems to be a bit louder and have more of a lope at idle, but that could either be because of the increase from 8.5:1 compression to over 9.5:1, or the fact that i haven't heard it run in a week.

Anyway, how many turns past 0 lash should i adjust the valves when they are warm? I cut the center out of an old stock VC i had laying around. I tried to adjust them hot, and it seems pretty easy besides the hot oil. I back them off until i hear clacking or ticking, and i then tighned them another 1/2 turn. While tighting the #1 and #3 intake vaves, when i went to 1/2 turn, the engine started to run pretty rough. I think i heard someone say that you should put them 1/4 turn past 0 lash when they are hot....any suggestions?

Sorry for the long post, and Thanks for the help!
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'72 Chevy C10 Mild 350/TH350/3.07. Ochre/White. Old high school ride.
'70 GMC C2500 '62 327 4bbl/SM465/4.56-geared Dana 60. White/White. Project or parts truck.
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Old 06-17-2003, 07:21 PM   #2
crazy longhorn
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If in doubt, a little looser setting on the preload is better. I have run the sb chevies as loose as 1/8 turn after the click stopped. This will require more frequent adjustments, & you run the risk of "hammering" the keepers off for the plungers on STOCK lifters, if you float the motor......shouldnt be a problem with antipumpup lifters tho. Good luck,crazyL
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Old 06-17-2003, 07:27 PM   #3
lukecp
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So would 1/4 to 3/8 turns be OK? My lifters are proably stock, i am guessing they are just Federal Mougul parts along with the rest of my motor.

I can't wait to go drive it tomorrow. I should be doing lots of this
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'72 Chevy C10 Mild 350/TH350/3.07. Ochre/White. Old high school ride.
'70 GMC C2500 '62 327 4bbl/SM465/4.56-geared Dana 60. White/White. Project or parts truck.
'97 Saturn SL DD. 1.9/5-speed. 40+ highway mpg
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Old 06-17-2003, 07:36 PM   #4
crazy longhorn
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I have run 1/8 to 1/4 on stock lifters(without problems), but if the valves float the lifters will pump up & can hammer the wire retainers loose......you probably wont float till after about 6400-6500 if you have fresh springs tho..... crazyL
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Old 06-17-2003, 07:49 PM   #5
bigjimzlll
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while your tightening the rockers,it is normal to have the engine studder..it should recover in a few seconds. I go 1/2 turn max. next time you do such an endeavor..while you have the intake off is the easy time to do the valve adjustments. If you use the E/O-I/C method its fail safe. Do one cylinder at a time. When the intake valve is completely closed..adjust the exhaust valve of the same cylinder...then do the same when the exhaust is closed do the intake. while the intake is off, you can see just how much the lifter is compressing
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Old 06-17-2003, 08:12 PM   #6
superchevy
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I always do a 1/4 turn.
SC
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Old 06-17-2003, 08:21 PM   #7
lukecp
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I just adjusted the driver's side bank at 1/4, and it seemed to go pretty good. For someone like me who is still pretty green at this stuff, it seemed alot easier to do it with the engine running. Doing it the cold method was pretty confusing, but i was doing it for the first time without any prior experience. Pretty satisfying to hear the engine run well after putting it back toghether, thanks to the help of many board members .

I doubt the motot will ever see over 5600 rpm, so i'm not worried about floating the valves. My springs are fresh and are good to .488 lift, and my cam is only .420/.443.
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'72 Chevy C10 Mild 350/TH350/3.07. Ochre/White. Old high school ride.
'70 GMC C2500 '62 327 4bbl/SM465/4.56-geared Dana 60. White/White. Project or parts truck.
'97 Saturn SL DD. 1.9/5-speed. 40+ highway mpg
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Old 06-17-2003, 08:31 PM   #8
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I have so much to learn!!!
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Old 06-18-2003, 09:40 PM   #9
lukecp
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I took the truck for a 4 hour trip today, and it ran excellent. The heads helped out the perfomance quite a bit. I am guessing i gained about 40 horsepower and 25 ft. lbs.. It will now put you back in the seat pretty good when i am going 75 and put it to the floor . It also sounds alot meaner, and is quite a bit louder too. It runs pretty good on 91 octane with 11 degrees of base timing. I pulled a few hills and it didn't ping or anything. I am thinking of bumping it up to 12 or 13 and seeing what happens.

I got about 13 mpg going 75 mph on my little trip...i was hoping to get about 14 or 15, but if i keep my foot out of it on the way back home, it might do a bit better.
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'72 Chevy C10 Mild 350/TH350/3.07. Ochre/White. Old high school ride.
'70 GMC C2500 '62 327 4bbl/SM465/4.56-geared Dana 60. White/White. Project or parts truck.
'97 Saturn SL DD. 1.9/5-speed. 40+ highway mpg
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Old 06-18-2003, 10:51 PM   #10
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Cutting out the vc, and adjusting them hot is the best way !!! The manual spec is 3/4 to 1 turn after lash is gone. Now that you have run it, I would suggest resetting them a little tighter....3/4 turn ..The rough running while tightening is normal, but it should smooth out after a few seconds. Turn the nut down slowly to allow the excess oil to pump out of the lifter body...the rough running is a result of that oil holding the valve open until it has pumped out. Running them too loose allows the piston inside the lifter bore to top out against it's retaining clip, and will evevtually come apart, fall down into the crank shaft, and break some thing...like piston skirts, or worse yet jam between a cam lobe and the block and snap the cam!!! Been there, done that!.
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