Is it possible to replace each cab mount, one at a time?

[TacBlade]

I was looking at my cab mounts and they look bad!!! I really do not want to get deep into things right now, so I am looking for an easier fix for this? Could I unbolt the cab mounts lift up on the corners one at a time and slid out the old and in with the new mounts? Anyone ever try this?

[TBONE1964]

It is possible but I would not do it that way. Along with the cab mounts, you should also replace the core support mounts. Look at it as the cab and front sheet metal being one system. If you replace the cab mounts and not the core support mounts, you are going to have issues with the doors shutting. You may get lucky but be prepared for problems.

[original70]

i just finished doing mine, radiator supports too. i thought it was going to be a big task, but 5 out of 6 mounts unbolted with an ordinary ratchet. i had to cut one bolt. it took me 3 hours start to finish and i dilly daddled for a bit. maybe i got lucky? this was my first time at cab mounts. i did drivers side all at once, then passenger side. it really was a piece of cake. i read somewhere here that some of the bolt heads are tack welded, was not the case for me, but watch out, im sure the factory did do that at some point. the LMC complete kit is ok..but just ok, nothing to brag about.

[In The Ten Ring]

I am doing mine now. My 1972's front cab mounts were tack welded in at the bolt head. DO NOT USE A HAMMER AND CHISEL. Use a dremel tool and take off the tack weld a bit at a time. I had one cutting wheel shatter on me but it did the job.

My bushings fell into dust and I am not exaggerating in the least. I hope to finish the driver's side tomorrow and get over to the passenger side later. Later still I'll do the radiator core support bushings.

I got my kit from Wes at Classic Heartbeat. He's great for telephone advice. I mean, he's walked me through it!

I used Zep 45 (basically a better version of WD 40) to spray on the bolts once a week for a month. They came off with ease.

When you put on the new bolts, hand tighten till they touch, then give one more full turn. 60 INCH pounds of torque is what Wes told me to put on or just do what the last sentence says. I do not have an torque wrench in inch-pounds. If you over tighten and compress the rubber, you defeat the purpose of the job.

[TacBlade]

Originally Posted by TBONE1964

It is possible but I would not do it that way. Along with the cab mounts, you should also replace the core support mounts. Look at it as the cab and front sheet metal being one system. If you replace the cab mounts and not the core support mounts, you are going to have issues with the doors shutting. You may get lucky but be prepared for problems.

Is it possible to get at the Core Support Mounts without taking the cab off, just lifting it a little? I am not sure where those are located?

[In The Ten Ring]

Make it easy on yourself man. Remove the seat and the gas tank. Unhook your fuel and vent lines under the cab at their rubber hose joints. Use a jack and a 2x4 or 4x4 piece of wood cut to fit just under the cab along the support bar that runs front to back. Looking at about 60 inches for your board. You'll use a hydraulic jack I assume for the lifting.

You'll have to remove the rubber mat or carpet or whatever to see the front bolt. It will be almost under your clutch pedal. Just look under the cab and you will see the other end. The rear one is a cage nut and screws up from underneath and is located behind where the in-cab gas tank sits.

I am by no means an expert on this as I am literally in the middle of it myself but I will help you any way I can by sending you pics and you can even call me if you want to.

Send me a PM.