Battery Relocation and Wiring

[BMERDOC]

Ok..So I'm in the market for new sheetmetal for my truck. I won't be reinstalling the battery tray on the rad support. I'm thinking I'm gonna use a drop down kit behind the right rear tire. Anyone got any good schematics? I don't mind rerouting some stock wiring but I'd like to keep most of the stock system (including fuse box) intact for now. Mostly I want to see Battery/Starter/Alternator ideas. I think I know how I'd want to do it based off what I know about electrical systems but I want to hear from you guys.

[BMERDOC]

I'm so used to posting threads in the 67-72 forum that I forgot that there is an Electrical section. Maybe this should be moved? I'll look there to see if I can find some ideas.

[GMC Canuck]

I'm looking at doing the same thing. All I was going to do is run 1/0 cables from the battery to the starter and the engine block. Could ground the battery to the frame and then have a good ground strap from the block to the frame but I think I'll run a cable the whole way. Then run a 10g wire from the starter to the isolator post on the passenger fender (with a fuseable link)

[BMERDOC]

I'll give up more of what I know to keep this going. Most of what I have searched on the forum hasn't turned up much in the way of wiring. I've worked for BMW for 17 years and they have, for the most part, located the battery in the right side of the trunk. The battery is grounded right there on the chassis. The engine has its own ground. The power cable is fused at the battery. Because of this I don't think there is any need in running a remote solenoid and associated wiring to the rear. The alternator is connected to the starter using the same gauge wire (1/0?). As far as I can tell the stock C10 Alt wire was a 12g wire so a 8 gauge would be fine to run from the starter post to the alternator which would get rid of the extra wiring and junction point. Someone rewired mine so the junction isn't used anyway. That same gauge wire would then run from the alternator to the junction at the fuse box/firewall.

AWEEE DANG! Its all coming back to me now!!! I guess sometimes I just have to write things down to get this straight in my head. :/ Sometime ago I posted a thread about upgrading the alternator to a higher amperage. Vettevet directed me to this thread:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=5900769

In post 9 he suggests a junction point at which several circuits are protected by a fusible link. The only problem is that the stock wiring is fed by one 12g wire. If an 8g is used in conjunction with a bigger alternator it could overload the system and cause a melt down. I guess the proper thing to do would be to keep a protected 12g circuit to the factory stuff and run a separate fused circuit (additional fuse block) for any additional circuits that are required as the system grows. I'm still thinking...

[cool68]

your basic plan for wiring sounds OK. as for the drop down aftermarket box do some research as to what battery will fit. also, would be good to put in a heavy duty master kill switch to be able to shut everything down in an emergency or while working on truck. also, mount one of the battery stud kits so that you can charge or jump battery if system drained. battery's are heavy, especially when you are laying down and it is above you to lower box down.

[BMERDOC]

Originally Posted by cool68

your basic plan for wiring sounds OK. as for the drop down aftermarket box do some research as to what battery will fit. also, would be good to put in a heavy duty master kill switch to be able to shut everything down in an emergency or while working on truck. also, mount one of the battery stud kits so that you can charge or jump battery if system drained. battery's are heavy, especially when you are laying down and it is above you to lower box down.

I think fusing the main circuit at the battery would work as a master kill in case of an emergency. From what I remember, most battery boxes, drop downs or battery holders take a 24. I've also considered your idea about jump terminals. I don't think I'd hang them on a fender like a drag car but terminals at the battery, under the fender, or a positive terminal in the engine compartment like modern cars is definitely something to be considered.

[ItsRandy]

I have a drop down battery box on my truck mounted in front of the right rear tire, I didn't want the tire to spit stuff up and hurt the battery. I got it from Summit or Jeg's. Make sure you use all of the mounting hole locations on the drop down battery box. I didn't on the first one I installed and the box began to rip. I was lucky and caught it before it tore all the way but it could have been real ugly if I had not. I had visions of the battery skidding on the asphalt, acid all over my new wheel and down the side of my freshly painted truck, you get the picture...UGLY! I had to build a brackets to mount the box to the frame so I could use all the bolt holes in the battery box.

I used 1/0 cables. The ground cable I ran all the way back to the bell housing as close to the starter as I could get. I wanted the best ground possible for the high amperage draw of the starter.

[BMERDOC]

Originally Posted by ItsRandy

I have a drop down battery box on my truck mounted in front of the right rear tire, I didn't want the tire to spit stuff up and hurt the battery. I got it from Summit or Jeg's. Make sure you use all of the mounting hole locations on the drop down battery box. I didn't on the first one I installed and the box began to rip. I was lucky and caught it before it tore all the way but it could have been real ugly if I had not. I had visions of the battery skidding on the asphalt, acid all over my new wheel and down the side of my freshly painted truck, you get the picture...UGLY! I had to build a brackets to mount the box to the frame so I could use all the bolt holes in the battery box.

I used 1/0 cables. The ground cable I ran all the way back to the bell housing as close to the starter as I could get. I wanted the best ground possible for the high amperage draw of the starter.

Good tips! I want to install it behind the tire because I eventually want to bag it and ill be using the space in front of the tires for the porterbuilt brackets that hold the tank and compressors.

[crakarjax]

Did you get anywhere with this? I'm looking to locate my battery behind the pass. side tire.

[67 chevelle]

This thread is 4 years old , that said my battery is in a battery box welded to the frame in front of the passenger wheel well , optima red top , and the box I bought off of e-bay for around 30 bucks .

[BMERDOC]

Its old but I'm still here! Actually, I did not attack this...until now. I have the motor pulled out getting everything from the firewall forward n eat and tidy. I bought a battery box to install on the frame. I saw a few pics where the box was mounted on the outside passenger framerail, underneath the cab and so I wanted to put it there. There is a diagonal brace under the cab so I don't know what they did but I had to cancel that plan. I am saving the spot under the bed, ahead of the front tire for the air bag compressors and tanks so that's out. I will be going behind the rear tire. I stripped the front harness and rewired it for an internal regulated alternator and bought a bunch of wiring and bits from MAD Electrical to upgrade the front wiring. hopefully Ill be installing this stuff in the next few weeks. After four years I think I've procrastinated enough.

[crakarjax]

Ha, good timing I guess! I hope I don't drag my feet quite that long. I'm moving mine to the back for better weight distribution, and will also probably end up with compressors and tank between the tires and cab. I'll be watching this space!

My plan is
- ground to frame, frame to everything else
- Positive to ANR fuse (200amp) and then to starter and rear air ride/fuel components
- Starter to alternator, relays, and fuse box

I've ordered a stainless drop-down box from ebay.

[crakarjax]

Did this happen? Wondering how your plans worked out.

[BMERDOC]

Sadly, not yet. The truck is still waiting on me. I did experiment with places to put the box and ended up tucked up on the out right framerail just behind the rear tire so it'll be mounted in the usual spot. My charging system is modern and has been mocked up so I know it will work. I'm using the stock (but modified) harness and any new circuits will be powered on a seperate system.

[bbrriiaann1973]

I purchased a relocation kit and put a metal box in the bed of my truck. It sit there with all the tools I need to change a tire! Works great, cleaned up the engine compartment.

[BMERDOC]

I'm really trying to avoid batteries and air tanks in the bed. I want a clean bed. There are 4 big pockets under the bed just dying for stuff to be tucked up in there.

[crakarjax]

Originally Posted by BMERDOC

I'm really trying to avoid batteries and air tanks in the bed. I want a clean bed. There are 4 big pockets under the bed just dying for stuff to be tucked up in there.

I agree, really no reason not to use the space in the bedsides and a lower center of gravity won't hurt! I installed my relo box but am not really that close to actually relocating the battery yet. I decided to make a power distribution center to mount near the radiator and am slowly working on getting that sorted out before relocating.

[bbrriiaann1973]

The problem with putting stuff underneath the bed is it's exposed to the elements. Water dirt salt ect.

[crakarjax]

Originally Posted by bbrriiaann1973

The problem with putting stuff underneath the bed is it's exposed to the elements. Water dirt salt ect.

While that's true, people have been mounting things under the bed for ages. My battery box is stainless, my air ride tank is aluminum, and I'll appropriately shield any sensitive components as needed. Unless you have a cover on it, stuff in your bed is also exposed to the elements!

[Doug's68SS]

not sure what all years bur late 90's into early 2000's for Diesel Vans 3/4 ton and 1 ton had dual batteries in front of the pass rear tire in a individual metal drop down box with a cover. I picked one up from E-bay for mine.

[bbrriiaann1973]

Originally Posted by crakarjax

While that's true, people have been mounting things under the bed for ages. My battery box is stainless, my air ride tank is aluminum, and I'll appropriately shield any sensitive components as needed. Unless you have a cover on it, stuff in your bed is also exposed to the elements!

Yep I sure Do! And it locks!