Fuel line replace question?

[In The Ten Ring]

I have rust in my fuel lines so I've decided to just replace the entire fuel line but I have some questions.

1). Would I need to replace my vent-to-canister line also?

2). The evaporation line, the one that runs up into the pillar behind the
passenger side, how hard is it to replace? I am fearful it may be hard to
get out of the pillar.

3). Has anyone used the stainless steel lines from inline tube OR can one
get a fuel line without a "shipping bend" from a vender here?

[Tx Firefighter]

The fuel line is the easiest line to replace with bulk parts store hard line. It's mainly a big straight piece on the frame with a bend at the front and at the rear. A great "get your feet wet" project when it comes to building your own hard lines. Much cheaper to do it yourself too.

[In The Ten Ring]

No doubt you are right sir (and I loved your avatar character in "Office Space") but I lack the tools for the bends....I think it would be faster, cheaper, and easier for me to just buy the lines I need and go from there.

So, back to the original questions....anyone?

[Tx Firefighter]

I wish you were close to me. I'd help you do it. Its a great skill to have and a real confidence builder.

[In The Ten Ring]

I wish we were closer too man. I could definately use some 1 on 1 help from experienced members...especially when it comes time to do bodywork and replace the wiring harness! (Jobs that are coming....)

[pwdcougar]

The tool isn't really expensive. This one on ebay is only $10.50.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heavy-Duty-T...-/231039138541

I use this type all the time and they are pretty easy to use. The tubing you get at an auto parts store is pretty soft and isn't tough to bend. The only other tool you need is a tubing cutter.

Good luck!

Paul

[midniteblues]

yep buy the tools and build your own lines.
i think if you dont go crazy and buy the top of the line tools you can make your own lines at half the cost of prebent.
and be able to build any line you should ever need.

i like too scavenge any oe threaded line fittings i can they are easy too clean up and its nice if you round one over too just cut off the flare and replace it. the fittings on the lines at the auto store are fine but sometimes fittings can be mismatched on the same line.

it seems almost anytime i need to replace a wheel cly i need too make a new hard line.
an having the materials is sure nice.

of course you could allways spend the $ and do braided lines.

[Tx Firefighter]

If the OP doesn't want to make his own, and he wants to save some coin, there is another option that might work for him.

Remove the lines, cap one end and run a diluted mixture of Muriatic acid and water down through it. That will wash the rust right out. Then blow dry with compressed air and reinstall. Quick and easy. Maybe a 5 dollar investment to buy the Muriatic acid at the local walmart.

Assuming his lines aren't paper thin with corrosion, that should buy him another lifetime of use out of them.

[stepsider]

When I got my 68 someone had run rubber from front to back. Gas tank in rear. I'm going to replace with aluminum line. It will bend & form easy. If your going to do any flaring Theres where you might have a problem. In your case new pre bend hard line might be the best.

[In The Ten Ring]

Well, these guys almost have me talked into it! I like to learn new things and boy my dad would be impressed if I made my own lines....

How is this video for tube bending?

Brake And Fuel Line Fabrication - YouTube

How is this video for flaring?

How To Make a Double Flare - YouTube

I really like stainless steel....has anyone used that to replace their lines and done the bends and flares on their own?

[Tx Firefighter]

A few bucks on tools and your in the hard line business.

For the rest of your life.

Buying pre made lines teaches you nothing. I personally think that building old trucks is a two fold endeavor. One, you build a neat old truck. Two, you grow and expand your skillset on each project.

[In The Ten Ring]

OK! Well I just spoke with the local NAPA store and the guy suggested a new material called "Poly Armor" for lines....he said it was softer than OEM steel yet rust-proof.

Has anyone tried that?

*I just did a search online and someone on a jeep forum was really big on this stuff....has anyone used it here?

[In The Ten Ring]

Originally Posted by pwdcougar

The tool isn't really expensive. This one on ebay is only $10.50.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heavy-Duty-T...-/231039138541

I use this type all the time and they are pretty easy to use. The tubing you get at an auto parts store is pretty soft and isn't tough to bend. The only other tool you need is a tubing cutter.

Good luck!

Paul

Well dude, I hope you are proud of yourself.....I just now bought that same tool you linked and I plan to buy a flaring kit and the tubing the next time I am over town.

I'm pretty excited now at the thought of making my own fuel lines!

[Tx Firefighter]

I don't mean to contradict the other guy, but a tubing cutter isn't even mandatory. You can work around it by using a grinder and cut off wheel, Dremel, or even a hacksaw. Just be sure and deburr the end afterwards.

[67chevy1]

The poly guard line that you were referring to works really good I used it on my back brakes on my truck. It has like a rubber coating on the outside of it.

[In The Ten Ring]

Well that's great man....I plan to use it for my fuel lines and I just now ordered all the tools I should need. I like quality tools so I went with a Craftsman double flare kit, Rigid pipe cutter and reamer, and the bender the fellow above suggested.

Rather hard to believe that in a few shorts hours I went from wanting to order prebent stainless to getting my own tools to bend my own space age pipe! I should be able get to this project next spring.

[In The Ten Ring]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I don't mean to contradict the other guy, but a tubing cutter isn't even mandatory. You can work around it by using a grinder and cut off wheel, Dremel, or even a hacksaw. Just be sure and deburr the end afterwards.

Oh no worries man! I have a tubing cutter already that I use for house plumbing jobs but I like to keep a tool for each kit. That way I always have everything I need when I grab that kit. And being OCD and rather inexperienced with this sort of thing, I just feel better with specialized equipment.

But just think man, you've helped to completely turn me around on this project! I might even try this job this winter rather than waiting for next summer.

[pwdcougar]

Good luck! The Craftsman double flare tool is pretty good quality. I've made a lot of new brake lines using it with success.

Most of the bends you have to make can be done with just your hands. I can't wait to try out the poly guard lines you found. Seems like I'm doing the brake lines on my 97 Silverado daily driver every few years. Stupid rust!

[In The Ten Ring]

Good to know! I have my dad to thank for my preference for Craftsman tools. I buy them over other brands when I can.

Is a "double flare" what I would use for rubber hose connections?

[pwdcougar]

For a rubber hose connection I usually just leave the straight cut off end of the steel line along with a good hose clamp and don't flare it at all. Some people feel that the rubber hose to steel line connection needs a kind of bubble flare that looks like the brass thing in a compression fitting.

The double flare is what is needed for brake lines because it is under very high pressure.

[Tx Firefighter]

Look at it this way...

You're gonna teach yourself to build hard lines on a very straightforward job. Plus, you're buying the tools to be able to do them for the rest of your life.

Yes, you could mail order a prebent line if you wanted to. But, someday, you're gonna run across a hard line that needs replacing that you either a) can't find through mail order, or b) don't have time to wait for delivery.

This way, you're ready to handle any jobs down the road. You've empowered yourself. You're more self sufficient. You're not at the mercy of aftermarket line companies and delivery companies. You can solve your own problems.

[In The Ten Ring]

TxFirefighter,

Oh I am excited, even impowered as you say, but I'm still pretty ignorant of the process and what's needed...

Even if I misunderstood all is not lost as I expect I could just use fittings or even braided steel hose but....

Could one of you help me out a bit more? What I want to do is just flare my new poly armour line so that I can use rubber hoses at the connections like what came with the truck when new.

Will my Craftsman double flare kit do that? Do I just need a bubble flare for metal line to rubber hose connections or do I need a different kit? Here is what I bought:

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-45-de...&blockType=G16

[Tx Firefighter]

You don't even have to do anything to the hard line for the hose if you don't want to. Just cut it square, deburr it, slide hose over it, and use a clamp.

There's no pressure on it. It's nothing to worry about.

I'm very OCD and I make a bulge on the end of the hard line, slide hose over with clamp. The bulge adds a little extra insurance that the hose can never slide off. Not really needed by any means, but I geek out on details. You can make a very nice bulge in the line end by doing the first half of a double flare. Your kit will do it with no problem.

[In The Ten Ring]

Well that's great!

So the double flare step, that is what I would do to put on a screw type fitting then?

[pwdcougar]

I was looking at the fuel lines on the Brothers site and they look almost like a full double flare on the end. I agree with Kevin though that you really don't need to put any kind of bulge in the end if you don't want to. His suggestion to just do the first step of the double flare is a good one.

The only line that will have a screw on fitting is the line from the fuel pump to the cart at the fuel pump end.

So to sum up:
On the ends that get the rubber hose you can leave them straight after deburring or put the bump in using the flaring tool but only do the first step of the double flare process.

Paul