is this the right intake gasket

[JointTech]

i have vortect heads. Im pretty sure these are vortec gaskets but they dont seem to line up very well. its supposed to be a http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...10003/10002/-1 but the picture looks different.



Also what is this hole for? The intake doesnt cover it and I dont remember anything else back there.

[kitsbeach]

Just guessing/dragging things up from old old files but that hole in the back might be the oil pressure sending unit hole.?

[Blue/72]

That is indeed what that hole is for. I just installed my oil pressure sending unit this afternoon!

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by JointTech

i have vortect heads. Im pretty sure these are vortec gaskets but they dont seem to line up very well. its supposed to be a http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...10003/10002/-1 but the picture looks different.

Those appear to be "universal" gaskets. The holes in the middle are of no concern, the vortec heads have not exhaust cross-over so there is no possible leak there.

The coolant passages are OK as long as they have enough gasket at the top of the intake manifold, however the bottom edges may need a little careful trimming; I can't see how much they over-lap.

The intake ports appear to be partially covered over, that will inhibit airflow so those too need to be carefully trimmed (port matched).

I'd be MORE concerned if those gaskets are right for the intake manifold you intend to use, I'm talking about the thickness of them. Depending on what intake you use, there are two different thicknesses of gaskets ranging from .060" to .120".

Examples: .0625"
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sce-111119

.120"
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sce-111120

The ONLY way to determine what thickness gasket you need to use is to go by the intake manifold manufacturer's recommendation. If you need any more help let me know what intake you plan to use.

[JointTech]

THanks guys.
This is the intake I'm using.
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...13002/10002/-1

According to this Im using the right gasket. Or at least I ordered the right one. I need to look at the package and see if thats what they actually sent.
Recommended Intake Gasket: JEGS p/n 555-210003

[JointTech]

Ill check the intake holes to see if they need trimming but I thought they looked pretty good. It was everything that seemed just a little off.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by JointTech

Ill check the intake holes to see if they need trimming but I thought they looked pretty good. It was everything that seemed just a little off.

I'd say you are good to go, take care with gasket alignment. I'd use some spray tack adhesive on the head side of the gaskets to keep them in one spot, unless they say not to.

If you can avoid trimming that is good, it is easy to mess up a good gasket.

I'm not sure why they still make the dual bolt pattern gasket. They used to make raised runner heads with conventional bolt patterns, but I haven't seen them for quite a while.

Even more confusing is the aftermarket dual bolt pattern heads. There are two distinct different port sizes I'm not sure how they can use two different intakes on those heads.

[mechanicalman]

What head gaskets did you use?

Don't forget to run a t-stat bypass circuit.

[JointTech]

Originally Posted by mechanicalman

What head gaskets did you use?

felpro 1094

Don't forget to run a t-stat bypass circuit.

huh?

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by JointTech

felpro 1094
Great choice.



huh?

Small block chevys have t-stat bypass port on the lower side of the passenger side water pump inlet into the engine block, this goes up to the deck of the head on the passenger side. Coolant comes from the radiator into the block then up to the heads then through the passenger side head into the by-pass port and back into the suction side of the water pump.

This allows coolant to circulate across the top of the cylinder head when the t-stat is closed so that the thermostat gets to see the hot coolant and open the thermostat on time.

If you don't have a by-pass, you have coolant just sitting still on top of the head not moving away the heat then creating steam pockets that do not actually carry away the heat and the heads tend to crack badly.

The vortec heads do NOT have the port that aligns with the one on the deck from the water pump. The engines they came on had an external by-pass hose.

You will need to run a by-pass hose from the intake manifold to the top of the water pump.

IF you DON'T have A/C, and IF you have a functional heater running coolant all the time WITHOUT a heater water valve, and it circulates coolant from the intake manifold back to either the cold (passenger side) of the radiator or to the fitting on the passenger side of the water pump, then that will function as an adequate by-pass.

[JointTech]

hmm it does have AC.
Is that what that plug in the water pump is for? so I need to get a barb fitting of some kind. And then is there already a hole in the intake? Which will also need a barbed fitting?

[JointTech]

ok i see.
something like this.


Ill work on that tomorrow going to try to get the intake and carb on tonight.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by JointTech

ok i see.
something like this.


Ill work on that tomorrow going to try to get the intake and carb on tonight.

Yeah, but that's a Ramjet 350 with different coolant ports on the intake.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by JointTech

hmm it does have AC.
Is that what that plug in the water pump is for? so I need to get a barb fitting of some kind. And then is there already a hole in the intake? Which will also need a barbed fitting?

There are two ports on the intake you selected that can be used. The front one would be the logical choice, however, you will likely need to fabricate an a/c bracket and that hole is too close to where you will need to run part of that bracket.

That leaves the one on the top front driver's side. Angle fitting, barb and connect a hose from there to the top of the pump.

Most people use 5/8" ID hose, but I'd try to find a way to install a restrictor to control the flow to 5/16" to 3/8". The factory port was about 3/8". Keep in mind the bigger the bypass, the less total coolant gets cooled by the radiator AFTER the t-stat opens.

You cannot do without this by-pass. You can drill small holes in the thermostat base, but that can delay engine warm-up as that bypasses into the "hot" side of the radiator.

I hope you drilled out the driver's side head for your temperature sender/switch. The vortec heads are I think 3/8"NPT and you need 1/2" NPT. If you have not, and have not installed the engine yet, then you still can do it. The temp sender can go on the intake, but you need that fitting for your by-pass because you have a/c you don't want to use the one on the front of the intake.

Do you have an "idiot light" or coolant temperature gauge?

It's more complicated to install those heads then people think.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by JointTech

hmm it does have AC.
Is that what that plug in the water pump is for? so I need to get a barb fitting of some kind. And then is there already a hole in the intake? Which will also need a barbed fitting?

I think I'd try to do something different, depending on what a/c bracket you have bolted to the front of the head. Where FirstOwner69 put the front adjustment support bracket, I'd leave that off as I don't think it's necessary then I'd put the bypass hose coming off the front of the intake.

Then, I'd put the temp sender on the top of the intake. If problems with the upper hose hitting the sender, I'd get a swivel thermostat housing, like this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ed...FYpcfgodXR0A1w

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by JointTech

hmm it does have AC.
Is that what that plug in the water pump is for? so I need to get a barb fitting of some kind. And then is there already a hole in the intake? Which will also need a barbed fitting?

To run the bypass hose off the top of the intake, as you can see FirstOwner69 had to run a thermostat housing spacer to clear the hose, then you would need to drill the temp sender hole on the head from 3/8"NPT to 1/2"NPT for your sender, which would allow you to use a front a/c support bracket but you would need to run the thermostat housing spacer to clear the bypass hose on the top of the intake.

[JointTech]

somebody needs to create a faq for this swap.... all ive ever heard is new intake and valve covers required.
Oh well this is the fun part right!!
I have a temp gauge.
No I didnt tap the head. Cant I get an adapter or will that put it to far out?
ALso why cant the temp sender go on the passenger side of the intake? Will the harness not reach? It looks like theres enough room around that AC bracket for a little sending unit and wire.
The engine is installed but theres no cab or fenders on so everything is pretty accessible except where the rad is.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by JointTech

somebody needs to create a faq for this swap.... all ive ever heard is new intake and valve covers required.
Oh well this is the fun part right!!
I have a temp gauge.
No I didnt tap the head. Cant I get an adapter or will that put it to far out?
ALso why cant the temp sender go on the passenger side of the intake? Will the harness not reach? It looks like theres enough room around that AC bracket for a little sending unit and wire.
The engine is installed but theres no cab or fenders on so everything is pretty accessible except where the rad is.

You can get an adaptor, people claim it will not respond well but I can't see it making a whole heckuva lotta difference. If you still have access to it, and can get the drill bit and tap, I'd tap it out. Just be careful using the pipe tap make sure you start test fitting the sender so it don't screw in too far, ending up loose and leaking.

If you have the a/c bracket set-up shown below, you will need the front bracket, and I do not believe it will leave room for a sender or a hose. I suppose you could create a custom bracket that would curve around but not sure that's feasible. If there is room, please take pictures and share that because it would solve the dilemma of what to put where.

Like I said, you can put the sender on the intake. I'm not sure if the wires will reach, but I expect they will if routed properly. You might have to re-route the wire, maybe strip some tape off the harness for that then re-tape, not sure. I have ran mine on the intake while I had some later model non-vortec heads on it and had no problem on my 72 but that was too long ago to remember for sure but I don't think I had to lengthen the wire. There are also some people who will turn down your old sender and re-thread it to fit your heads, one is a member his name is brian mac send him a pm.

If it were me, I'd just drill and tap the head for the temp sender and do whatever I had to do to install the bypass hose.

I have done internet research but have not found anyone who has attempted to drill the needed passage in the vortec head casting. I'm thinking if it could be done feasibly, drilling that one hole would have been much cheaper for the factory than installing the bypass hose.

[JointTech]

ok I think I'm going to be ok for now. I dont have the compressor or the bracket for the AC so it wont be in the way for now.
The head is tapped for the temp sending unit and it fits with no adapter.
I have another temp sending unit for the electric fans and then I found a port right in the front of the intake, not on top. and the threads are correct for the sending unit for the fans.
So that leaves both the top ports open depending on where the ac bracket later on gets in the way or the top rad hose. I see what you mean by needing the thermostat spacer otherwise youd have to do some big ugly loop over the top.
heres some pics of me testing different spots and stuff.
found a new sending unit hole.





Now Im going through old pictures trying to figure out how stuff goes back on the engine. Glad I kept all this stuff somewhat organized. Theres a weird spacer for the bottom of the alternator and I saw it in my pile of stuff today and when I saw the picture it went ding!.

And dont ask me why I taped off the intake bolt areas...

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by JointTech

ok I think I'm going to be ok for now. I dont have the compressor or the bracket for the AC so it wont be in the way for now.
The head is tapped for the temp sending unit and it fits with no adapter.
I have another temp sending unit for the electric fans and then I found a port right in the front of the intake, not on top. and the threads are correct for the sending unit for the fans.
So that leaves both the top ports open depending on where the ac bracket later on gets in the way or the top rad hose. I see what you mean by needing the thermostat spacer otherwise youd have to do some big ugly loop over the top.
heres some pics of me testing different spots and stuff.
found a new sending unit hole.

And dont ask me why I taped off the intake bolt areas...

Those don't look like GM brand heads, what brand are they? EQ, World Products? I'm not sure if aftermarket heads have or don't have the passage for the t-stat bypass. I assumed you were running GM brand heads as you did not state otherwise.

The hose between the distributor and the carb base-where do you have that going to?

I also saw some aftermarket vortec heads with exhaust crossover so you have better be sure you DON'T have exhaust crossover if using those intake gaskets.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVROLET-VO...-/141493347109

Could be you just have the intake gaskets laying on there backwards, try them the other way to see if they line up better in the center.

[JointTech]

the heads have GM casting numbers. They are from Jegs. http://www.jegs.com/i/ProMaxx-Perfor.../2151/10002/-1

I dont remember where that hose goes. I just knew it went somewhere on the top of the engine. Have to look through some more pictures to figure it out. My guess was it went to the front of the carb.

gaskets fit the same on both sides and they have some silicon stuff around the holes on only the head side.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by JointTech

the heads have GM casting numbers. They are from Jegs. http://www.jegs.com/i/ProMaxx-Perfor.../2151/10002/-1

I dont remember where that hose goes. I just knew it went somewhere on the top of the engine. Have to look through some more pictures to figure it out. My guess was it went to the front of the carb.

gaskets fit the same on both sides and they have some silicon stuff around the holes on only the head side.

So long as you know that hose is hooked to the fitting on the intake runner, subject to vacuum so it either goes to the brake booster or a fitting to a vacuum hose to the trans (modulator valve) or both.

Those are Patriot heads, the specs are very good and they look awesome. I likee!

However, I don't know if they are drilled for the t-stat bypass. You don't want 2 bypasses, that routes too much coolant away from the radiator. I'm leaning toward believing that they probably have the t-stat bypass passage, but you need to confirm it.

OK here's the easiest way to tell. Remove the water pump and the thermostat housing. Blow air in the small hole BELOW the passenger side water pump passage and see if air comes out of the thermostat hole. Or blow cigarette smoke in there with a straw or shotgun it in there LOL. If it does not circulate, you will need the bypass hose if it does, you don't want an extra bypass.

See how only the passenger side has the extra hole below the mounting bolts, that's the bypass passage that connects to the hole in the deck as depicted, coolant goes through the block, over the heads, and back to the water pump without going through the radiator keeping the coolant from sitting still and burning.

It's nice they drill the coolant sensor hole for the big sensors.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by JointTech

the heads have GM casting numbers. They are from Jegs. http://www.jegs.com/i/ProMaxx-Perfor.../2151/10002/-1

I dont remember where that hose goes. I just knew it went somewhere on the top of the engine. Have to look through some more pictures to figure it out. My guess was it went to the front of the carb.

gaskets fit the same on both sides and they have some silicon stuff around the holes on only the head side.

You know, those remind me of the GM Bowtie Vortec 185 heads. The Chinese may have ordered one and copy-molded it, removing the bowtie and leaving the casting numbers.

[JointTech]

ok im getting closer.
Ill call the about the coolant passage because I alredy have the water pump on and dont remember what holes where on the head's block side.

The intake fitting with the hose goes to the tranny. The pcv goes to the carb.
The hose coming off the back of the carb goes to the brake booster.


You can see the electric fan sending unit int the front of the intake in this shot.


now to figure out how to mount the dang alternator. new thread coming soon

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by JointTech

ok im getting closer.
Ill call the about the coolant passage because I alredy have the water pump on and dont remember what holes where on the head's block side.

The intake fitting with the hose goes to the tranny. The pcv goes to the carb.
The hose coming off the back of the carb goes to the brake booster.


You can see the electric fan sending unit int the front of the intake in this shot.


now to figure out how to mount the dang alternator. new thread coming soon

Just remove the w/p and blow into the hole like I said and see if it comes out the heater hose nipple. Otherwise have a good time with your truck. Signing out.