It Was Going To Be A 383

[magwakeenercew2jh]

I had illusions...or should I say "delusions" of building a 383 out of a clean "roller" block I have on the stand and the fresh
set of 062 heads that I just had done.

These Votrec heads are all newly and properly machined with 1.94 intakes and the exhaust valves raised to 1.60. I have
nice Vortec valve covers.

The block I have is an unbored 350 and reported to have been fluxxed (sp?).But who knows until the machine shop gets it...
...from ME!!! No internals. No rotating assemblies. The only thing I have for the block is the spider bracket.

The 350 in the truck now is strong. And all of the external stuff is new. Or newer...Serpentine belt system, carb, headers,
alt., electric fuel pump, small style starter, regulator, etc.

But, on start-up, I get a puff or a little more smoke. I kind of figure it's valve seals. Plus, the rear main has a P.I.A. drip.....
..The motor was sealed up well installed a couple of thousand miles and three years ago. But, I missed the rear main, I guess.
This was a motor that came with my pile of parts...I got it from a pal that simply told me that this motor, "got it down the road pretty well".
But he really didn't know anything about it's internals, either. I suspect it has a cam in it from the loping...but I don't really know.

Point is, I don't have the money to build a new motor. Just a fact. And, this one, while it's solid and strong, has a drip and a little
smoke at startup after it sits for a couple of days.

So, since I can't build the motor the way I want it (the 383), I then decided to buy a new intake manifold and gaskets...and drop those
"new" heads on the 350.

Then, I remembered the main seal. "Well, I'll pull the motor and install the heads", I told myself. "I'll fix the rear main at the same time."

Naaaawwww....That's just not me. Even though it runs great, I don't know what's actually *in there*.

Now, I'm thinking short block. Use all my other stuff to hang on the motor.

So, the questions are: Am I making any sense? Sourcing? What specific short blocks make sense for an old guy that likes to hammer it
once in a while...But, mostly, cruise and smile at the sound?

[michael bustamante]

Yup you got bit by the muscle bug. Do what you know you can afford and live with. Nice lookin setup there

[Vintage Windmills]

Sharp truck. I'm not sure I follow though. Do I have it right that you were going to build another engine and replace the one that in there currently but now are considering just purchasing a short block? The vortec heads you have are a good choice but I'm not sure where you can buy a vortec shortblock. you could buy a vortec longblock and sell your heads, that may be the cheapest and easiest.

[magwakeenercew2jh]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

Sharp truck. I'm not sure I follow though. Do I have it right that you were going to build another engine and replace the one that in there currently but now are considering just purchasing a short block? The vortec heads you have are a good choice but I'm not sure where you can buy a vortec shortblock. you could buy a vortec longblock and sell your heads, that may be the cheapest and easiest.

Right. I was probably rambling.

I want to keep the fresh heads I already have. And add all my peripherals, including the fresh
heads, to a "new" short block.

I know I'll have to buy an intake manifold that will match my carb to the block.

So, what I am asking is what block would be a smart choice given my task at hand.
And, given my existing drive train and driving style.

[imjeff]

Why not run and enjoy what you've got?

[magwakeenercew2jh]

Originally Posted by imjeff

Why not run and enjoy what you've got?

Definitely.

But I probably have to pull the motor to fix the rear main seal, anyway. Especially because I have what I think
are leaky valve seals making for a sizable puff of oil smoke when starting after sitting for a day or so.

So, I could fix everything at the same time without laying underneath or leaning into the engine bay for a week.

But, you're right. I can just drive her and wipe the floor off. And just say, "s%$w the smoke" when I start her up.
It goes away in ten seconds, anyway.

But, see...I have these heads...And, well.....I'm

[RedRoad]

http://paceperformance.com/i-6255301...-assembly.html

[magwakeenercew2jh]

Originally Posted by RedRoad

http://paceperformance.com/i-6255301...-assembly.html

Nice.

Any tips on a complete 350 short block?

Probably more in my financial "wheelhouse".

[RedRoad]

http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet+Perf...61723/10002/-1

or the cheapo crate 350. You could take off the heads and use yours and add a cam while you are at it for a good boost in hp. I would also add the one piece pan gasket to keep leaks to a minimum

http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet+Perf...67353/10002/-1

Ive read that this one will work better with more compression which may happen depending on your heads but may be a bit much for a truck

http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet+Perf...99529/10002/-1

[hugger6933]

Have you priced the 383 stuff? Look at the stuff to make the 383 in the same places the LT1 guys would that is gonna be the same rotating stuff like the crank and rods and also pistons. With the short blocks that we have looked at in this post, you could build a nice short block your way and have what you want. I would try to find a replacement vortec truck engine 96-98 [and up to 01 in some models] add a LT4 hot cam or copy of it and hang on! Jim

[snipescastle2]

competition products has some pretty good deals on short blocks and long blocks, and they don't require a core charge or exchange-

http://www.competitionproducts.com/P...products/1597/

http://www.competitionproducts.com/L...products/1225/

enjoy!
Ben Smith

[bigmac73]

personally, I would just do Rings/bearings and seals on the lower end and add the heads. maybe do a little cam upgrade if needed if you are running a flat tappet already , the summit brands are not to pricy

[my67c20]

The real question would be what is your budget? You have the block, you have the heads, you can most likely reuse your intake, valve covers, pulley set-up, oil pump, distributor. All you need is a cam, crank, pistons, lifters, pushrods, gaskets, oil pan. I would believe that you could get all that for under 2k. If the block is on the stand, you can pretty much build the entire motor, then on R & R day, swap over the other stuff. Or sell the block, put on the heads, ignore the oil leak, and continue to regret just not moving forward.

[BrianG]

Originally Posted by bigmac73

personally, I would just do Rings/bearings and seals on the lower end and add the heads. maybe do a little cam upgrade if needed if you are running a flat tappet already , the summit brands are not to pricy

x2

[cooperhw]

Originally Posted by magwakeenercew2jh

Definitely.

But I probably have to pull the motor to fix the rear main seal, anyway. Especially because I have what I think
are leaky valve seals making for a sizable puff of oil smoke when starting after sitting for a day or so.

So, I could fix everything at the same time without laying underneath or leaning into the engine bay for a week.

But, you're right. I can just drive her and wipe the floor off. And just say, "s%$w the smoke" when I start her up.
It goes away in ten seconds, anyway.

But, see...I have these heads...And, well.....I'm

The little drip from the rear main seal can be fixed with a drip pan for now. The valve seals I would fix with it in the truck. Pump air into the cylinders and pull the springs, drop new umbrella seals in place, put back together. Done.
I only say this as you have mentioned that funds may be an issue. You can always work on a new motor when/if you need (or want) (or can afford) a new motor in the future.
I think the seals would stop a lot of the smoke, and drive the wheels off that sucka.
J.M.O.
I have done them twice.

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by magwakeenercew2jh

Definitely.

But I probably have to pull the motor to fix the rear main seal, anyway. Especially because I have what I think
are leaky valve seals making for a sizable puff of oil smoke when starting after sitting for a day or so.

So, I could fix everything at the same time without laying underneath or leaning into the engine bay for a week.

But, you're right. I can just drive her and wipe the floor off. And just say, "s%$w the smoke" when I start her up.
It goes away in ten seconds, anyway.

But, see...I have these heads...And, well.....I'm

Have you inspected any of the seals for brittleness, breakage, etc? Cheap & easy & quick to do. May even find oil return holes partly stopped up. Just consider this engine a "free" one and drive & enjoy the 'free ride' as long as she goes. That puff of smoke I'd bet causes your engine to consume very little oil--even along with the rear seal drip!
Considering it a freebie, you might even help the rear main by staking the oil pan around the seal area--gonna replace it with a nice one when you eventually swap engines anyway. And when you do, try & get a '96 and up 5.7 vortec to go under those heads--got a stock one in my '66 w/carb, headers, stock cam, 700R4 to use the torque, and you'd think it had been built. It just goes, and amazes everybody who sees what it can do. My thoughts: and free on top of that!
Luck with your decision(s),
Sam

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by cooperhw

The little drip from the rear main seal can be fixed with a drip pan for now. The valve seals I would fix with it in the truck. Pump air into the cylinders and pull the springs, drop new umbrella seals in place, put back together. Done.
I only say this as you have mentioned that funds may be an issue. You can always work on a new motor when/if you need (or want) (or can afford) a new motor in the future.
I think the seals would stop a lot of the smoke, and drive the wheels off that sucka.
J.M.O.
I have done them twice.

YUP. And a puff after startup is like icing on the cake of having an old truck. Just ignore it. You ought to see mine smoke when backing into a camping space in the Sequoias. At least all those trees absorb the smoke...

[catch2otwo]

If its a 383 you want, quit jumping around and save your pennies. Deal with your drip and start up smoke and save up to build your 383. Do it once and be done with it. Its tempting to do a cheaper build to satisfy the urge to build but you are just going to throw money out the window. No point building another motor just to keep wanting a 383.

[WIDESIDE72]

What catch said...