Lift question 70 K10

[1969k20]

Is it normal to have the rear axle/tire so close to the front on the wheel well when you put a 4 inch skyjacker lift on a SWB? I didn't think it looked right. Thanks for the input!

[57taskforce]

My ‘69 Swb K10 has a 4” rough country and the axle sits similar to that. I’ll see if I can find a comparison picture. The axles on these trucks aren’t perfectly centered from the factory and lifts seem to exaggerate this.

[1969k20]

That's what I thought from all the pictures I saw of other lifted short boxes online. I'm not crazy about the way it looks. The distance on the rear leaf spring from the center bolt to eye isn't symmetrical. Front to center pin is 24 1/4" and the back is about 25 1/2". I installed them according to the directions (longer end to the back) but am contemplating switching the springs around. That should move the axle back a little over an inch and lower it about the same (sits too high in back anyway). Thoughts about this?

[HO455]

The springs are engineered to control axle wrap and give the best ride possible. I believe that reversing the springs is going to adversely affect the spring performance. But check with the manufacturer to be sure.

[57taskforce]

Originally Posted by 1969k20

That's what I thought from all the pictures I saw of other lifted short boxes online. I'm not crazy about the way it looks. The distance on the rear leaf spring from the center bolt to eye isn't symmetrical. Front to center pin is 24 1/4" and the back is about 25 1/2". I installed them according to the directions (longer end to the back) but am contemplating switching the springs around. That should move the axle back a little over an inch and lower it about the same (sits too high in back anyway). Thoughts about this?

The other issue with that is the lift springs are designed to correct your pinion angle. The angle will be off and you will likely get drive shaft vibrations if you reverse the springs

[jeffahart]

Put in zero rates and move your axle back an inch or inch and a half. I use zero rates on the one inch. Why does the rear of your truck sit up so high? Is the rear on jacks? The front usually sits higher after a skyjacker lift. And it makes zero rates nice for leveling the trucks stance. I think zero rates add 1" maybe a bit less to height. Anyhow, you can move the axle back using zero rates.

j

[1969k20]

Originally Posted by jeffahart

Put in zero rates and move your axle back an inch or inch and a half. I use zero rates on the one inch. Why does the rear of your truck sit up so high? Is the rear on jacks? The front usually sits higher after a skyjacker lift. And it makes zero rates nice for leveling the trucks stance. I think zero rates add 1" maybe a bit less to height. Anyhow, you can move the axle back using zero rates.

j

I built this thing from the ground up over the last 4 years but I think it sits higher in the back due to the new spring perches I welded on when I swapped in the 14 bolt from the HO52. I had to adjust the width and the new perches sit a little higher (3/4-1") off the rear end than the stock ones that were pretty much flush. Until this morning when I crawled under there, I forgot they had multiple center pin holes (they are in the center hole currently) so I should be able to move the axle back a little with that.

As for the height being off, I'm going to assemble the front clip and see how clearance looks for the front wheel wells. If it's good, i could take a leaf out of the back spring pack to bring the rear end down a little and if the front is too close, I could add the zero rates up front to match the rear. As most things when you start messing with one thing it affects a bunch of others. Thank you for the idea about the zero rates. I'll attach a pic of the perches I used.

[kwmech]

If the vehicle weight is on the truck in that pic, I'd say you got 6'' springs by accident judging by the arc

[57taskforce]

I would definitely move them to the front set of holes (moving the axle back) I know what you mean about messing with one thing and causing the domino effect. So did you swap the ho 52 in before the 14 bolt? What’s the back story on this build? Original short bed? Seems like you’ve done a lot of work on it.

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by 1969k20

I built this thing from the ground up over the last 4 years but I think it sits higher in the back due to the new spring perches I welded on when I swapped in the 14 bolt from the HO52. I had to adjust the width and the new perches sit a little higher (3/4-1") off the rear end than the stock ones that were pretty much flush. Until this morning when I crawled under there, I forgot they had multiple center pin holes (they are in the center hole currently) so I should be able to move the axle back a little with that.

As for the height being off, I'm going to assemble the front clip and see how clearance looks for the front wheel wells. If it's good, i could take a leaf out of the back spring pack to bring the rear end down a little and if the front is too close, I could add the zero rates up front to match the rear. As most things when you start messing with one thing it affects a bunch of others. Thank you for the idea about the zero rates. I'll attach a pic of the perches I used.

Ya, you're setup to move the axle back. I would shy away from removing a spring from the pack, and although zero rates in the front are legit, where's blocks are not, I really don't like the solution(only as a last resort). With all the work you've done... get the thing sitting on it's feet, figure how you want the stance and get the front springs re arched.

Have fun!
j

[Richard]

It is normal and designed that way. Look at any stock truck and it will be the same way. First pic in my thread it is evident. As the spring compresses it will flatten and grow in length The front of the spring is fixed and the spring is arched. Therefore the axle will move back as the spring gets longer. Having the front of the spring lower than the back somewhat offsets the movement and helps with anti squat.

[1969k20]

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

I would definitely move them to the front set of holes (moving the axle back) I know what you mean about messing with one thing and causing the domino effect. So did you swap the ho 52 in before the 14 bolt? What’s the back story on this build? Original short bed? Seems like you’ve done a lot of work on it.

First off thanks for all the input and ideas. I'm sure one of them will probably work out well. There is a lot of knowledge on this forum and it is much appreciated.

Its a cut down long box that I've been working on for way too long (4-5 years) and got way too in depth in. It was just supposed to be built as a daily driver but ended up being a nut and bolt deal. Looking in hindsight, I should of probably just left it a long bed, as it would have been done years ago. I had the frame shortened 4-5 years ago but didn't swap in the 14 bolt until after the frame was powder coated and started reassembly. I just got time to assemble the bed this week, so it's been the first glimpse of how everything is lining up. Hope to have it painted by this summer and finally be on the road.

[57taskforce]

Looks like a really solid build, nice work! Now things make a little more sense. The end result will be worth the time and sweat. You might start a build thread over In the 4x4 section of you don’t already have one. It would be cool to keep tabs on what your up to with it.

[katwalk]

When I first got my '69, I too noticed the rear axle seemed to be too far forward. I picked up a Tuff Country EZ Ride 4 inch lift and noticed the leaf spring pin was not centered between the front and rear eye of the spring. To help center the wheel, I put the longer side towards the front. It rides rather well and the pinion angle is good. The first pic below is after I installed 33s on the factory suspension. The second pic is after the TC lift was installed.

[57taskforce]

As we already documented, it is normal. Here’s a side shot of my 69 factory short bed.

[firedemon]

i always thought they were designed to be a little to the front because they were designed to be working trucks once theres some weight in them the compression moves the wheel back . i could be wrong though im no designer