12 bolt Stock rebuild question

[Furno68C20]

Truck is a 67 c10 stock 12 bolt. I'm not changing the 3:73 gears, going to reuse them because there in good shape but changing all bearings on the rear end: Pinion front rear bearing, carrier bearings lip seals and axel bearings and crush sleeve.

Since i had a good pattern before taking apart can i just use the same shims and spacers with the new bearings?

I know guys bore out the pinion bearing to slide on and off the pin to set the depth but in my case I cut up the old bearing getting it off.

Also, having a hard time finding axel bearings. Looking to stay with National or GM. Any thoughts or recommendations.

Thank you in advance.

[Bigdav160]

No need to change shims if just changing the bearings. If you're installing a new crush sleeve you'll need a few special tools like a dial or beam torque wrench that will measure below 25 pounds inch. That 12 bolt crush sleeve can sometimes be a bear to start crushing. I've been known to pre-crush the sleeve slightly in a hydraulic press to make it easier. A hydraulic press and a bearing separator will remove the big bearing easily but I guess you could just cut it off with a die grinder and cutoff wheel. You're not changing the housing or pinion so no need to measure pinion depth. How are you going to reinstall the big pinion bearing?

[Furno68C20]

good info. I have access to a press and a bearing heater at my work so i'll try to heat it first and see if it slides on, if not i'll use a press. Last resort will be a pipe with same ID as the inner race.

[Accelo]

I use a Snap-On 1/2" breaker bar (the long one) and a cheater bar to crush the sleeve. I don't recommend an impact wrench. It is almost impossible to control the last little bit as "just feeling it give a little" is all that is required to change the rotational torque a bunch. Everyone that does it with an impact over tightens the nut! Putting the new sleeve in the press also works as the first part of the crush as it takes the most torque. Then use the old spacer as a guide so you don't over crush it.
One also needs a method of retaining the yolk while tightening the nut. That might be the most difficult part as the factory tool is expensive as are the alternatives. Attempting to hold it with the brakes is difficult because the torque multiplication from the gears and the slop in the system. A 4" piece of flat-bar can be used to make the tool.
Cheers.