How to remove after market steering wheel

[jwendell413]

The previous owner had an aftermarket steering wheel in place only secured with a nut over the center bolt. I removed the steering wheel and also have a steering wheel puller tool, but not exactly sure at this point how to remove the adapter he had behind the steering wheel in order to replace the whole set up with an a OE Chevy steering wheel.

Thanks for any advice or what I’m missing.

John
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[RustyPile]

Use a 3 arm puller.. Attach puller using bolts in those 3 threaded holes. I use a harmonic balancer puller.

[EDIT] This one from Harbor Freight will work for you.
https://www.harborfreight.com/bolt-t...q=wheel+puller

[jwendell413]

Thank you very much for the info - I’ll pick that up today.

Originally Posted by RustyPile

Use a 3 arm puller.. Attach puller using bolts in those 3 threaded holes. I use a harmonic balancer puller.

[EDIT] This one from Harbor Freight will work for you.
https://www.harborfreight.com/bolt-t...q=wheel+puller

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[72SB]

OP

I am going the other way around, pulling original (cracked all over) and putting on aftermarket wheel.

Your hub looks like a Grant and as mentioned just use the 3 hole wheel puller using the right size threaded bolt for the adapter hub on car now. That off center dimple on your steering shaft is where the tip of puller would go (yeah ideally it would be center but whoever pulled wheel FU and had it off center)

The mounting of a stock wheel ideally has the original components to make the horn work

[jwendell413]

Thank you very much. I got the truck-star type puller but I think the threads inside are too stripped. I can’t get the bolts to catch inside at all.

I’ve tried a pry bar and fat head screwdrivers too and have no idea how to get the damn adapter off. When I pull from behind it, it’s trying to bring everything in the assembly behind with it.
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[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by jwendell413

Thank you very much. I got the truck-star type puller but I think the threads inside are too stripped. I can’t get the bolts to catch inside at all.

I’ve tried a pry bar and fat head screwdrivers too and have no idea how to get the damn adapter off. When I pull from behind it, it’s trying to bring everything in the assembly behind with it.
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The big nut on the shaft is not enough to hold the steering wheel. When the assembly is properly installed, the 3 small holes in the center of the wheel align with those 3 holes in the hub. Short bolts are passed through the wheel and screwed into those holes and keep the steering wheel from spinning on the hub..

Now that those holes are stripped out, your best bet for removing the hub is to tap those holes the next size larger.. If memory serves me correctly, the original size was 1/4"X20.. Next size would be 5/16".. Once the hub is removed, you might have to do some additional disassembly to remove the metal shavings.. You MUST do this to prevent electrical shorts and other issues with the horn and turn signal switch..

[jwendell413]

RustyPile - I can’t thank you enough for the thoughts and advice. Basically just run the next size larger bolts/screws to create new grip threading.

Other thought I had was trying to use one of the jaw style pullers that just grab the lip from the back sides and not mess with the threaded holes. Not sure if that would help.

In addition to them being stripped, I also feel like the teeth from the adapter are well-seeded into the teeth on the shaft too. Which is obviously potential for further damage I hope I don’t have to replace that too.
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[LS short box]

Since the threads are stripped can you can just drill the holes a bit past 1/4" and use longer 1/4" grade eight bolts with nuts on the back side.
Wrap something (towel/rag) around the column to keep the metal chips out.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by jwendell413

RustyPile - I can’t thank you enough for the thoughts and advice. Basically just run the next size larger bolts/screws to create new grip threading.

Other thought I had was trying to use one of the jaw style pullers that just grab the lip from the back sides and not mess with the threaded holes. Not sure if that would help.

In addition to them being stripped, I also feel like the teeth from the adapter are well-seeded into the teeth on the shaft too. Which is obviously potential for further damage I hope I don’t have to replace that too.
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No, don't use bolts to form the new threads. Run a proper tap into the hole and cut new threads. 5/16"x 18 is the next size up from 1/4" X 20.. The correct hole size for 5/16" bolt is 17/64".. However, you should be able tap the stripped out hole without any drilling involved.

I'm just guessing but I think when the PO stripped out the threads in the hub, he just kept tightening the big nut until the wheel stopped spinning on the shaft.. This excessive tightening forced the hub farther down on the shaft. It's probably jammed pretty tight. A small 3 jawed gear puller might work. Give it a try.. Personally, I wouldn't try it.. I don't think you'll damage the splines on the steel shaft.. The hub is soft aluminum and is more likely to be damaged than the shaft. Just work carefully.. And don't use pry bars..

I worked as a professional mechanic for over 30 years. I developed the attitude that when I finished working on a vehicle, I didn't want to leave a single shred of evidence I worked on it.. Leave no dirt, grease, scratches, cracked plastic pieces, pry marks -- no marks of any kind anywhere.. I've been retired for many years, but I still have that attitude when doing any work and also I keep it in mind when I offer advice for making repairs.

So having said that -- proceed at your own risk..

[jwendell413]

Thank you all so much for the advice. I ended up using one of the 3 jaw pulleys to grab the adapter from behind and it worked very easily.

Now I’m excited to say I just have to figure out how to get the new OE steering wheel and horn assemblies on.

Thanks again
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[RustyPile]

If you have a GM service manual for your truck, diagrams and exploded views of the various parts can be found in it.. You can compare the parts shown in the diagrams with the parts you have on hand.. Did the horn contact parts found under the horn button come with your OEM steering wheel??

[jwendell413]

Thank you. I've looked at some of the exploded part views on the LMC page too that have been helpful. I bought some a horn contact kit that goes under the push button; just need to figure out the order of the parts.

https://www.lmctruck.com/1967-72-che...and-components

I bought Part# 4, 5, 7 & 9.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by jwendell413

Thank you. I've looked at some of the exploded part views on the LMC page too that have been helpful. I bought some a horn contact kit that goes under the push button; just need to figure out the order of the parts.

https://www.lmctruck.com/1967-72-che...and-components

I bought Part# 4, 5, 7 & 9.

So you have 10 and 12??? These 2 assemblies fit under the steering wheel. As stated, the GM factory shop manual will tell you how to assemble those parts.. There are a number of sites where you can download the manual for free..

[jwendell413]

Yes I have 10 & 12. I think #12 is actually holding the steering wheel up from seeding in back as far as it needs to though.

I'll look into a way to download the shop manual and stop bothering you and others as much. I really appreciate your help.

John