Alternaor

[variationperson]

Ok I got a 69 GMC truck and put a 1000 watt car amp in it but my battery keeps going dead, so bought a alternator that's put out 105 amps compared to a 63 amps alternator.the guy told me I only need one 10 gauge wire from the battery to the back of the alternator .So here my question before I had a brown and I think black from the old regulator that was on the cord support .the guy told just leave the old regulator wires off is that Right ?

[pjmoreland]

The FAQ thread in the Electrical section has some links to threads about converting to an internally regulated alternator. Do you know what type of alternator you got?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=815300

[variationperson]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

The FAQ thread in the Electrical section has some links to threads about converting to an internally regulated alternator. Do you know what type of alternator you got?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=815300

On the paperwork it has CS 130 SE alternator

[pjmoreland]

There is a schematic by VetteVet that shows how to wire up a CS130 on post #3 here:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=720105

[Jason Banks]

I'm thinking that the 'SE' on the end of CS 130 SE stands for Self Exciting. That would make it a one wire alternator and should only require the one wire to the battery. Could be wrong though and there are drawbacks to the one wire alternators.

[HO455]

Converting to the later model set up is more involved than what you posted (If done correctly).
Here is a link to my alternator swap. Scroll to post 467.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...698377&page=19

[pjmoreland]

Oops. I didn't notice the SE. Sorry about that.

[variationperson]

Here is the way it was Hook up
before I put a 1000 watt car amp in it . It was doing fine before the amp. the guy who who sold me the new alternator told me just
a 10 gauge wire from the battery to the alternator and that was it so what do I do with the red wires from the old alternator,he told me I don't need them https://photos.app.goo.gl/441rchMFCm8CH3Zd6

[franken]

You haven't stated a problem that needs to be solved. Is there an issue?
You also seem unwilling to read the offered info in the links and make excuses. If there's an issue and you refuse to take advice to learn, feel free to continue to fail.

[MARKDTN]

I would also do some research on CS130 alternators. I would not use one as a paper weight. The CS144 is so much better and uses the same wiring as a CS130.

[variationperson]

Originally Posted by franken

You haven't stated a problem that needs to be solved. Is there an issue?
You also seem unwilling to read the offered info in the links and make excuses. If there's an issue and you refuse to take advice to learn, feel free to continue to fail.

If u look at my picture I am ask what do I do with the wires that's was Hook to the old alternator ,. I
don't need ur bull**** comment on here .I just want to make sure it's Hook up right smartass

[variationperson]

Thanks for everyone help

[HO455]

Originally Posted by variationperson

Here is the way it was Hook up
before I put a 1000 watt car amp in it . It was doing fine before the amp. the guy who who sold me the new alternator told me just
a 10 gauge wire from the battery to the alternator and that was it so what do I do with the red wires from the old alternator,he told me I don't need them https://photos.app.goo.gl/441rchMFCm8CH3Zd6

The guy who sold you the alternator is wrong. He is likely confusing the CS 130 with a GM one wire alternator like a Delco 10SI.

You are converting from the factory externally regulated alternator to an internally regulated alternator that requires proper voltage sensing. It's not an apples to apples swap.

Here is a link on charging systems. Important stuff to read if you want that stereo to last and be free of electrical noise.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml

[Jason Banks]

You really should only hook up the ONE 10ga wire from the alternator to the battery. You can just leave the factory wire tied out of the way. To test the alternator, you can measure battery voltage with the engine off and then start the engine and the voltage should read higher in the 14 to 14.5v range.

If you don't have higher voltage the alternator may not be exciting.
Here's a great video on how the Self Exciting alternators work, and what to do if they are not exciting - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QPl7CTb685I

Your gauge inside the truck will most likely not function using the self exciting alternator.

Here's some more info on self exciting alternators:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml

[MARKDTN]

You do want to be careful adding a big alternator with factory ammeter wiring. I think you are being advised to do away with the factory red wire that goes to the hot post on the alternator and add a larger wire direct from battery to alternator hot post. To me I would step back and re-evaluate your big picture plan. 1- one wire alternators are not the best choice for constantly changing loads. They work well for machinery that has few loads and just starts and runs a while. I do not consider them to be a good choice for a road vehicle. 2-bypassing the ammeter in a 67-72 needs to be done completely and correctly or you may still have high current in a low current wire. 3-CS130 alternators are inferior to CS144 but share wiring. Thus I would much rather have a 12si at 100A than a CS130 which will be so much easier to wire as a 3-wire retrofit. (but you still have to deal with the ammeter). But again if you want reliable high amps a CS144 is the way to go.