Looking for photos and info on aux tank

[Madipie03]

I’m looking for any photos or info to put this all back with auxiliary tank. It’s a 1970 K20 Thanks

[mr48chev]

I've got a tank out back but it is probably junk now. Looking at your photos again if that one doesn't have holes in the bed floor for the filler neck, breather hose and bolts to hold the tank in it had a different style of tank in it. Meaning that the tank I have went under the bed and the filler and breather hoses ran down inside the bedside with a stamped steel cover over them.

I was looking on my photobucket for a picture of the tank because I have an inch of snow on the ground and probably won't make it around to where the tank is anytime soon.

Here I found them in an album I labled as Truck info.
URL=https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/w71/mr48chev/Truck%20info/.highres/008-1.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds][/URL]

[Orange Crate]

My tank looks exactly like mr48chev, but here are a few of the filler neck before I took everything apart for paint. This option is on my SPID along with the Custom Camper and heavy rear springs. If you have an assembly manual all these parts are shown and the installation too.

[best view]

That’s the nl2 tank in that picture that is what you need to start , very hard to find , that tank looks fine to me that can be saved

[67RS/SSx2]

Do a search on here for nl2 aux tank. Several recent threads about it.

[PbFut]

The above photos are all correct original parts. Factory only did driver side tanks as far as I know. The right side tanks are aftermarket. The filler neck is hard to find but the neck for a 70s Suburban will work with just some minor tweaks. Most right side tanks will not have the filler and vent tube in the position needed to mirror the factory filler neck. I took the extra tube length of the suburban filler and used it on a tank given to me. Then cut the holes in bed floor and sides. Looks factory. The inside of bed cover is available and can be used on either side. Can't recall source.
I could not tell if your bed has holes. The side filler hole looks high to me but could be angle of the camera. I have the fillers exposed while I work on damaged bed rails right now. I'll take a few photos for you later. Last thing is the mount hardware. They are reproduced by small machine shop at 50 bucks each. I welded a rod connector to a washer used to hold grinding wheels to a grinder shaft. Diameter slightly larger but looks and functions very close to original. Restoring the tanks and getting everything needed was a fun project.

[PbFut]

As promised. Some Photos. Seems like the factory hole is lower then OP original photo. I also took a shot at the factory plate that covers a rubber insulation pad so water is not dripping on the tank all the time. Note if one of the hoses is damaged and the bed fills with water, it can allow water into the tank. My tank had not been used in years. It had a few gallons of water in it. Lots of rust. I cut access hole and sandblasted inside. Then used a tank sealer kit. Result was very good. The last photo is of the inside of tank when I started.

[PbFut]

More pics. Tanks are done and installed. Work great.
Second photo is of the Suburban Filler neck. It's not a perfect match to our original but close enough to make work with little changes. It is behind the covers so not a issue for me. Sorry it rotated somehow.

[best view]

72 blazer filler tube is a correct fit and his hole does look high

[KQQL IT]

Originally Posted by Orange Crate

My tank looks exactly like mr48chev, but here are a few of the filler neck before I took everything apart for paint. This option is on my SPID along with the Custom Camper and heavy rear springs. If you have an assembly manual all these parts are shown and the installation too.

Our 68 has the same filler for a rear tank