carb and intake take a look at this!

[whitesswj]

Guys, as you know tomarrow i'm goin to go and pic up my crate 350. It has heads. it's a long block.

i found this on ebay and want to know what you guys think.

I know how to fix engines and replace parts not change out engines. but i don't know enough about 350's to know what i'm lookin at. Some one explain what he's talkin about ot me thanks, sswj

IS this a good deal?

[Johns70]

thats a good deal at a 100 but only if you have lots of cam and stall in your converter.its streetable but not very good for a driver. by the way the carb is a 750 double pumper,single plane manifold with a high rpm range.the heli coils hes talking about are thread repairs for the carb studs,its a common occurance from overtighting them or using cheap crb studs. hope this helps.

[whitesswj]

Originally posted by Johns70
thats a good deal at a 100 but only if you have lots of cam and stall in your converter.its streetable but not very good for a driver. by the way the carb is a 750 double pumper,single plane manifold with a high rpm range.the heli coils hes talking about are thread repairs for the carb studs,its a common occurance from overtighting them or using cheap crb studs. hope this helps.

ok i understand the good deal part the 750 double pumper.

the heli coils i don't get i mean i get the part about overtightening. what doese the heli coils do?

the single plain
streatable
lots of cam (cam physics is something i just don't get).
stall in your converter

now remember my 68 is the truck that i'm goin to be driving all the time

so that helped but about clear as mud. thanks, some more info. time for 350 class 101

sswj

[71swb4x4]

Basically helicoils go into the hole to make it a little smaller so the bolt holds again. Basically they rethread the hole.

The carb is a big one for a stock 350, and the high rise intake is great for high RPM torque and horsepower, but at the same time hurts low-end torque and horsepower. The high stall torque converter will keep your tranny in the higher RPM range, to utilize the higher power curve of the motor.

So, basically for a daily driver a regular intake with a smaller carb would be a lot better for you. It won't give you the larger high end numbers, but your lower RPM torque and horsepower will be better, and that's where you need the power for daily driving anyway.

Shawn

[whitesswj]

so w/ my 3 in the tree and 4.56 rear, i need to keep w/ a reg alumn intake and a smaller carb. give me a set up. seems like you know what you're talking about.

[Johns70]

if your looking for just better performance with very good street manners go with a dual plane manifold and a 600 cfm or 650 cfm carburator with vacum secondarys.

[mikeoj]

Don't overlook the $40.00 shipping fee!!

[whitesswj]

Originally posted by Johns70
if your looking for just better performance with very good street manners go with a

dual plane manifold

and a 600 cfm or 650 cfm (I know what this means) carburator with

vacum secondarys.

[whitesswj]

what are the different kinds of intakes and carbs. what i'm truly lookin for is speed, towing, rubber burning, and just pure power. what kind of set up would you guys recomend?? thanks sswj

[Mountain Man]

Get an Edelbrock performer, or performer RPM intake,

and an edelbrock 1406 600cfm carb with the electric choke.

[Johns70]

dual plane is based on a stock design, the intake runners are split into half,one half feeds 4 cyls.on one plane, and the other half of the intake feeds the other 4cyl. on a higher plane.this yeilds very good torque from idle up to 5500 rpms which means good streetability and good milage.

a single plane manifold is for more high rpm use it feeds all 8 cly. off of a single plane with a big plenum{the area right below the carburator}these manifolds are for high rpms and all out power not very good for street use and daily drivers.they start making power at 1500 rpms to 8000 rpms thats where a high stall converter comes into play with automatics.

a general rule for small blocks is 600cfm to 650 for street daily drivers . 750 cfm. is usally to big unless you have big heads and big came.

vacuum secondary carbs. are good street carbs. the front two throttle bores always work feeding fuel to the motor.then when the engine vacuum gets to a certain level then it opens the back two throttle bores.

mechanical secondaries or double pumpers can work on a street motor and daily driver if tuned good they give very good acceleration but not very good gas mileage compared to a vacuum secondary carb.all four thottle bores work all the time and don't need any vacuum to operate, thats why they use them for street strip use with large cams, the larger the cam the less vacuum a engine makes.
hope this helps. a person can talk all night about this getting more specific on terms and stuff this is just to give you an idea on how it works.

a good choice is what mountain man suggested.a good book to read is the how rebuild your small block chevy printed by hp books

[gr8scott51]

Put in a new clutch while you have the engine out. I don't think you'll be happy with a 3 speed behind that much engine, and I think you'll run our of gears at 50 mph. It may not be a happy marriage.

good luck, scott

[BUXMAN66]

i second what mountain man said .....good perfomance right outta the box. even w/ 3.73 rearend it'll be enuff for you ,let alone a 4.56.... might wanna dump the 3 on the tree,you'll have it fully wound-out at 50-55mph......not streetable.

[COBALT]

One of the best things I ever did was drop a refurbished 2101 performer intake and a brand new 1406 Edelbrock 600 cfm carburetor on my stock 350. Since it's a stock '80 block out of a newer pickup it has the smaller heads, and super-tame cam. I worried a bit about how it would handle, but I love it. Any more CFM I might not have good performance.

[whitesswj]

i've got a 3.73 rear end that i could swap out and put in place of the 4.56 from my 67 parts truck. should that be something i think about? I know that w/ my 250 3 tree and 4.56 i run out of gears at about 75. keep going guys, this is somehting i know very very little about. Teach me!

[COBALT]

I think you're getting ahead of yourself. So you have a 250 with a three speed manual, and 3.73 in the rear....if you think you're "running out of gears" at 75 just wait until you swap to 4.56. You'll bottom out at 55.

What do you want to do with the truck? Do you want to haul stuff? Do you want a daily driver? Do you want to drag race? Do you want just a fun truck to drive around every once in a while?

Those are the first questions to ask. From there the engine, transmission, and rear-end combo will start to take shape.

[lukecp]

I would go with 3.73 gears, a #2101 Performer intake, and a #1406 Carb. Both Edelbrock pieces. You will be very happy with this combo.

[whitesswj]

ok i think i've been mis informed by the previous owner.

I saw another thread talking about rearends. It had this sitecalculator for rear ends . I just got off for lunch and noted at 65 i was going w/ 2400 rpm. that makes a 3.73 rear end and a tire height of 28.5: w/ those numbers if i have a 4.56 i have to be doing about 3500 w/ my 3 on the tree in line 6.

So what i'm understandin is that if i have a 3.73 rear, 3 on tree (i'd like to keep that, at least for now) and a 350 with what ever set up on it, I should be fine. Right?

I'm diggin your opinion here keep going but be a bit clearer for me please? i'm still learning


sswj

[COBALT]

3.73 gears are great for a daily driver that still wants a little punch. I had 4.10 gears and it felt like my truck was running 4000 rpm at 60 (of course it wasn't, but it felt that way), so I swapped them out for 3.90s. Waaaay better.

The '80 350 I had had a 327 cast iron intake with a 2bbl Rochester carburetor on it. It dogged quite a bit. I finally bought a 2101 performer Edelbrock intake for $60 at a swap meet, and then got a brand new 1406 Edelbrock 600 cfm carb for my birthday (thanks wife).

With stock heads and cam it runs great. With good headers, and a better fuel delivery system (pump and pressure regulator) it will run even better.

Experiment. It's a new engine, so invest a few hundred dollars in a good setup. Don't put an old carb on there. Get a rebuilt carb (600 cfm is a good starting point), and a good dual plane intake. Get a carb that's easy to tune if you've never tuned a carb for idle and cruise. Also get a good HEI setup, and rig up a good fuel pump and regulator. An electric fan with new accessories and pullies will be nice too...

[lukecp]

65mph at 2400 rpm would be a 3.07 ratio with 28.5" tires......3.73's would give you about 2900 rpm at 65mph.

[Johns70]

more than likly if i had to quess your runnin 3.73 rear gears that was a common ratio for six cyl. rigs. does it feel a little high geared in first when you go to take off from a stop?

[rodnok1]

Is it just me or does the large picture of the intake actually show a repair to the bolt hole where it bolts to manifold??? If they repaired it here what the hell happened to it?? You couldn't/shouldn't use a heli coil for a through hole without original threads?? I would pass on this intake manifold...think something is fishy

[whitesswj]

Originally posted by Johns70
does it feel a little high geared in first when you go to take off from a stop?

yea i would say that it does, hard to get some rubber burnt if you will. Of course the 250 is still there, but those old engines have about as much torque as a v8 but to answer your auestion johns - yes i think it dose feel a bit high ended.