Replacement Body Bushings
 

I am in the process of replacing the body bushings on my 72. I have succesfully replaced all of the bushings except for the rear two by jacking up the body from the rockers.

What is the best place to jack up the rear to access the two bushings next to the gas tank? I'm worried that if I jack it from the bottom of the tailgate, even with a piece of 2x4 under it, it's going to put too much stress on the tailgate.

What my best option here?

Jim

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

Good question. I'm getting ready to do mine and will listen, as well.

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

There is a heavy bolt on bed support, as long as you still have rear wells in place you should be fine with that one. When I stripped mine I used that support to hold up the body while I dropped the frame out from underneath.

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

I will take a look for this bed support your talking about. Thanks! :chevy:

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

I used a scissor jack between the rear body and frame just in front of the gas tank.

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

Are most of you using the neoprene or rubber?

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

Polyurethane

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

Yeah, that's what I meant. Thanks Chulisohombre

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

No problem. Neoprene is to keep you warm. Lol

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

The mounts I put on are polyurethane. I never want to replace these again in my life time unless I do a frame off. I got mine from synergy suspension and its a nice kit.

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

Wow. That's encouraging. I'm not doing a frame off!

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

Synergy or Energy?

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

The poly will last forever so that's why I did mine that way as well. I also
Wanted a more solid feel to The truck. I won't ever be pulling these off again either if I can help it. Put in coated hardware so rust can't eat away the bolts through the sleeves in the body this time too. Was a pain to get out the originals. I'm pretty sure mine are energy suspension. I used them to replace my front shackle bushings as well.

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

I have been planning to do this and I think I have two options that should work depending on equipment available.

1: Install eye bolts in the rear corners with a backing plate under for more strength, using a chain and a cherry picker lift the rear and support with stands. I am a little concerned the eye bolts will bend the bed when lifted even with the plates so either use a long piece of thick walled square tubing or if you plan on removing the bolts (I want to leave them in for tie downs) mount them in the center then fill holes when finished. Use jack stands to support the tub while replacing for safety!

2: Raise the rear and support the body only with tall jack stands, place them on the bed bracing or on something else structural (NOT the tailgate or bedside sheet metal), lowering the vehicle onto another set of stands should allow you to remove the jack to replace the bushings safely.

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

Correction: energy suspension

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

I also ordered the Energy Suspension kit. Hopefully be tackling this job in a couple of weeks.

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

I Just used a scissor jack Between The body and frame and replaced them one at a time. The front ones under the radiator support were the hardest. Had to pull the front clip and lift the support to get those bushings. Had to use a couple lift straps and a two by four to hold it up to get it apart. Also in the rear four bolts they are spot welded to the body so have to be grinded off and I just used a sawzall to get the nuts off of they break. Then had to use a air chisel and sledge to pop them back Through the body since they are usually rusted together.

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

Can u post a pic of the scissor jack you used?

Did everybody install the bushings with the top on or off?

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

I used just the regular type of jack that every car has in the trunk to change a tire. The body only has to be lifted Off enough to get the old ones out and install the new bushings. Most kits come with new bolts but I used the original ones for the bushings under the front floorboards as the stock ones were much bigger and stronger than what Was in the kit. But the rest of them I used as they were coated for rust protection. I did one at a time just moving down from front to back. All have to Be loosened up first as well but I didn't have much left of my bushings so that didn't really Matter. The back four were the second worst because of the taipan, bumper, and gas tank. Plus just the years of rust had corroded everything. There was no rubber left at all on the tailgate far rear ones so my trucks body was flipping around when I took corners sharply. Kinda scary.

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

I'm just buying all new bolts. I guess I'm expecting the worst and having to cut my bolts off due to rust. My Energy Suspension didn't come with the bolts. Anybody have a source for the bolts?

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

You can use the parts list and pics in the LMC catalog to get sizes, then just source at a hardware store. Make sure you get the right grade...

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

What's the usual grade and what is overkill grade bolts?

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

I kept my top on for the process. Even with the top in, my door alignment is now off and my doors don't like to close easily. The fun of the job! :lol:

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

That's what scares me. My doors close great and are aligned.

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

Bear in mind the original bolts are tack welded in.

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

Grade 5 should be fine. That's what mine are. Been on ten years and still good. I think they sell them on Lmc as a kit too. They are somewhat different lengths so I can't help you on that part.

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

Check this out. Has a the sizes and lengths. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=362908

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

Hey Jim-since you've just gone through this project, are there any tips/tricks you can share? Anything you would do differently if you had to do it again? I think this is a project I'll take on this winter, and even with my fairly limited know-how, seems that it is something I can successfully tackle.
I also have a '72, 350, sm465 and 2 inch block lift..top is off, if that matters?
Thanks!
Jason

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

Glad to hear. I have a set that has been sitting on my bench since Sept. I got the Poly because everything I've gotten that's rubber lately only lasts a few years before rotting. My bushings are so bad I had to cut a radiator hose into small squares and stack them up to make a temp bushing on the passenger side, as the original crumbled in my hand like an Oreo cookie. The temp is actually working pretty good. But it nags at me knowing it's under there. Now the water pump sprung a drip. Now the bushings will take a back seat again.

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

Good thing water pump on these are only a 20 minute job. And only cost like 30-40 bucks

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

yes it's an easy job for sure. But it will take me 20 minutes to drain the water without making a mess. I'm slow.fun busy work.

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

Spenceman72,

In my opinion it is not a technical job, but a job that requires patience and caution. Like many, my rockers and rockers boxes were not in the best of shape on my truck. Rusty with some bondo in there. :lol: I would recommend using multiple jacks on each side of the truck to lift the body off the frame. This will evenly distribute the pressure points on the body to avoid damage. Use a long piece of wood or steel beam to jack on instead of the body to evenly distribute the pressure again.

I can't imagine doing the job with the top off as I had the body twist and door alignment get off sync even with the top on!

Always use extreme caution when using farm jacks to jack up the body off the frame. They are very dangerous, especially when jacking the body down, but are necessary for the job unless you have a shop with lifts.

Again, not a difficult job. Just an awkward one. Hope this helps you. Good luck! :chevy:

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

Based on what I'm reading here, I may leave my doors open a couple inches. Plus I'm worried about the cowl.

I adjusted the doors for reveal and easy shutting last year. The reveal where top driver door and front quarter meet is tight. Plus the cowl is right on the quarter panels on both sides.

I have long channel iron I use for jacking the frame I'm going to try to jack the body even.

I will take before and after pictures when I do mine so everyone can see any changes in door and fender reveals.

I don't want to pinch body parts where things are already tight and decide to pinch when the body move. Because my bushings are rotten.

Thanks!

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

Leave as much buttoned up as possible. It will help. Top on, doors closed, gate closed, etc. jmo

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

I did mine a few years back and will tell you, Make sure you chock the wheels as my body lifted a couple inches and kicked the transmission out of park and rolled into my truck behind it! I also found it easier to grind of the heads on top the bolts and then drive them out from above. I used some 2X4's on the frame between the bushing areas to support the body once it was jacked up. I just used a floor Jack and 4X4 for a spacer on various parts of the Body to lift, it really was not that difficult and my body came out aligned better than with worn out mounts! Just my 2 cents

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

Well I did my water pump yesterday. As I mentioned above. Thought I would make my son do since he's home from school, but we both worked on it. As I suspected, not anywhere near 20 minutes. Here's a basic wrenching session for me.

After watching the Charger and Chiefs:

In garage at 1:30
Pull truck in garage, drain radiator, clean spilled water, loosen belts for alt and air, remove brackets for air, remove fan shroud, remove radiator, remove water pump, cleanup bolts and heater hose fitting, scrape old gasket off block can clean up for install.

3:00
Wash hands change into clean jeans, head to parts store with list.
Buy: water pump, lower hose, coolant, hose clamps = $104.00

Home by 4:00 with coffee:mm:.
install water pump with paper gaskets on right side 2 seconds. wrestling with compressor brackets on left side of pump quite awhile! Tighten all belts, install shroud, radiator, hoses. Check all bolts, fill with water. Run test drive. Park truck,

hose out garage, scrub with detergent, hose again.

Back in house 6:30. Pizza and beer at 7:30

And that's how a water pump takes me and my son a half day!

Merry Christmas... Happy New Year.... :smoke:

jeff

Re: Replacement Body Bushings
 

I'm new to the forum but have been reading a lot lately. I bought a 69 K5 several years ago complete with the original body mounts. I picked up some energy suspension mounts and replaced them over a two day period. Mine has the hardtop which I left on during the replacement. I had to use a torch, grinder and air hammer on literally every 45 yr old nut and bolt. Once they were all removed I used a floor jack and a piece of 4x4 wood block and lifted the tub just enough to remove the old and replace with new. Replacement bolts I picked up at tractor supply. Then we had to replace the motor mounts since the fan was rubbing the shroud. After all was said and done the drivers door shuts and opens a lot better. The psgr door literally shuts on own and opens with ease. I didn't worry a lot about where to place the wood and jack I just moved it around till all were replaced. I used a hi-lift on the rear since I have no rear bumper and didn't have any problems with the tub creaking or bending.