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Old 04-01-2014, 08:58 PM   #832
jlsanborn
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Spokane, WA
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Re: My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bomp View Post
I noticed in the info on the headers it stated:

1967-91 Vehicles: Part# 69090 & 69230 may require removal of Rubber Snubber
mounted on right side frame rail w/ 3bolt bracket, to complete installation. ........... I believe this would tilt the motor down enough for clearance.
Link to the page I read here ~~~~~>http://www.jegs.com/i/Hedman/500/69010/10002/-1
although yours are 69010, correct.

I'd try every which way before cutting the header cause that'll void the lifetime warranty.
Rootin for ya. You'll get it.
Its probably not an option on this build but you know I'd have that floor hacked up by now. Mmmmmmmmm hackin'
Now this ain't "Bomp's Big-N-Tall Hot Rod Alteration Shop" but I sure did hack the cab floor. That was a while back when I got the bell housing, shifter and jazz. What I did was use clam shell mounts and some engine stands from a square body. Had to trim the pinch seam in the tunnel and cut my low hump down the center and across to slightly raise it for transmission clearance. What I finally figgered out with these headers is that my motor was WAY too high. I fabbed my own stands and basically got the motor as low and as far back as I could and still have good clearance. Turned out awesome, except now I wish I hadn't cut my floor up! I can cut my patches out of the hump and weld it back up like it was but what a drag! The whole deal is sitting at about 4 degrees but I know my ride height and rake is not exactly where it's gonna be. I've got header clearance to fab a cross member that'll allow me to fine tune that angle when I get to driveline day and set the pinion angle.

For my stands I simply match drilled a plate to the clam shell mount, bolted them together and welded the nuts on the backside. I used good OEM flanged ones and welded them good. Put those back on the motor, jockeyed it around till I was happy, then cut the right shape "wedges" to get them onto the front member. It's all 3/16" material and once I'm sure it's all where I want it I'll weld it home. I had to clearance the driver's frame rail a little and it looks like hell in the pics. I was just smoking little bits off until it fit and I'll go back and clean that up straight like with radiuses.

That's as far as I got when the Boy blew the S10 ("Punching-Bag" Thanks Chip!) apart in there for his new heads. Got that finished up around 1 friggen thirty this morning! I'll throw a few pics up on Stupid Move, maybe a burnout vid... He's got some cleaning to do then I'll build me a cross member!
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'77 K30 3+3 - "The Crummy"
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=640134
'67 C10 L/SWB - Soon to be daily driver!
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=471776
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